Pine T&G walls_Best practices

[arcticfx]

Hi-new member here. I'm planning on re-doing my cabin walls [interior] in N.Michigan. My plan is to install furring strips on the walls, install a foam insulation of the same thickness in between the furring strips then mount tounge&groove 3/4x6" pine over that. I can only afford to do 1 wall/year based on the prices I've seen out there. This install would be over existing drywall.

Basically just looking for advice on installation & anything I need to be carefull of or tips/tricks to make it go faster. Also, if anyone has any tips on alternate materials to use that would save time/money. Any advice/tips of any nature are well appreciated.

Thanks

Jordan

[mrcaptainbob]

I don't think putting insulation ovver the drywall would be a good idea. I suspect that it would absorb any condensate between it and the insulation and get moldy. I would pull that stuff out, then do the insulation and pine boards....

[kactuskid]

You can find sales on the 1x4's at Menards sometimes, or you can use the 1x8's that have a simulated groove down the middle. It's called carsiding and would look the same but go up faster. Using a nail gun with a compressor would help alot in not having to nail set each nail.

If you want the pine to amber with age then apply an oil based finish to the wood, but if you want it to stay the same color it is now then apply a water based finish instead. I used Varathane Diamond Polyurethane on mine and it turned out great. Takes around 3 coats with light sanding in between to get it just right. Here's a link to show the details:

http://www.polyclay.com/flecto.htm

Here's another great site that will show you lots of how to install the planking, starting plumb and in a corner and working out is best.

http://www.bead-board.com/instructions/index.html

And don't forget, You're gonna also need to buy electrical box extenders to bring out the face of the box even with the new wood.

[kactuskid]

You can find sales on the 1x4's at Menards sometimes, or you can use the 1x8's that have a simulated groove down the middle. It's called carsiding and would look the same but go up faster. Using a nail gun with a compressor would help alot in not having to nail set each nail.

If you want the pine to amber with age then apply an oil based finish to the wood, but if you want it to stay the same color it is now then apply a water based finish instead. I used Varathane Diamond Polyurethane on mine and it turned out great. Takes around 3 coats with light sanding in between to get it just right. Here's a link to show the details:

http://www.polyclay.com/flecto.htm

Here's another great site that will show you lots of how to install the planking, starting plumb and in a corner and working out is best.

http://www.bead-board.com/instructions/index.html

And don't forget, You're gonna also need to buy electrical box extenders to bring out the face of the box even with the new wood. And don't use nails that are tooo long, don't want to hit any existing electrical wiring in the wall.

[arcticfx]

quote:Originally posted by mrcaptainbob

I don't think putting insulation ovver the drywall would be a good idea. I suspect that it would absorb any condensate between it and the insulation and get moldy. I would pull that stuff out, then do the insulation and pine boards....

Any other thoughts on this? Maybe a vapor barrier would be a good idea? My first reaction to this thought is that as long as the insulation is floating between the furring strips/T&G/drywall the wall will be able to breath to a certain extent?

Thanks for the replys guys...this is good stuff.

[kactuskid]

Are you located in a nothern climate? If you are then the walls dry to the outside and vapor barriers are installed on the warm side of the wall.

What is the current construction of the outside walls. Is there already insulation in the stud cavities, then a vapor barrier or faced insulation, then sheetrock? Need a bit more info to know for sure. If there is already insulation in the walls then you could skip installing furring strips if you plan on installing the T&G horizonatally.

[arcticfx]

quote:Originally posted by kactuskid

Are you located in a nothern climate? If you are then the walls dry to the outside and vapor barriers are installed on the warm side of the wall.

What is the current construction of the outside walls. Is there already insulation in the stud cavities, then a vapor barrier or faced insulation, then sheetrock? Need a bit more info to know for sure. If there is already insulation in the walls then you could skip installing furring strips if you plan on installing the T&G horizonatally.

Yes, northern lower michigan...near Traverse City. Construction is T-111 with R11 [pink w/ the paper] in the stud cavities then D/Wall. House is built like a pole barn though....6-8'center 4x6 posts with 2x6 horizontal between them.

[kactuskid]

I don't know if you really need the rigid foam then, why install it if the walls are already insulated and have a vapor retarder. Rigid foam does have a bit of permeance and you would be sandwitching your drywall between two vapor barriers by installing it. I'd also skip it if it were mine.