Beadboard ceiling

[seamlyne]

We're re-doing the dining room and kitchen, and want to have beadboard ceilings. I know that I can buy the stuff in 4x8 panels, but the space is too large - I certainly don't want crosswise seams. So, I guess I want to use paint-grade pine wainscoting.

Those sound like statements, but they're actually questions. Not sure how to proceed. If we use individual tongue-groove boards, do they go over the drywall, or instead of it? Same question for panels if there's a way to make that happen.

Advice, please?

- Bill

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[kactuskid]

There's a product made by Georgia Pacific called Ply-Bead, they're 4x8' panels but they're shiplapped to hide the seams. Maybe call them up to see if the 4' side is also shiplapped. Here's a link to the product.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=Ply-Bead%c2%ae+Panels&pid=1401&hierarchy=pc

There are other altenatives to using pine T&G boards here:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/interiors/article/0,16417,220916-7,00.html

All these panels can be installed directly over the drywall ceiling.

If you decide to go with the T&G individual pine boards then you can install it directly over your drywall, though you'd need to install a box extension on the ceiling light. You'll also need to install the boards perpendicular to the ceiling joist so you can nail them on to the joist. Using a nail gun sure helps here to make the job go faster and to hide the nail. If you go this way just hollar back and I'll provide the how too's to make it go easier.

[seamlyne]

quote:Originally posted by kactuskid

There's a product made by Georgia Pacific called Ply-Bead, they're 4x8' panels but they're shiplapped to hide the seams. Maybe call them up to see if the 4' side is also shiplapped.

I've seen that at the local home center. Our ceiling is larger than 8' in both directions, so I wasn't sure about using it - the seams on the 4' side (which are straight cuts) would be a bugger to effectively hide.

quote:Originally posted by kactuskid
If you decide to go with the T&G individual pine boards then you can install it directly over your drywall, though you'd need to install a box extension on the ceiling light. You'll also need to install the boards perpendicular to the ceiling joist so you can nail them on to the joist. Using a nail gun sure helps here to make the job go faster and to hide the nail. If you go this way just hollar back and I'll provide the how too's to make it go easier.

The wife is making noises that she wants a stained rather than painted ceiling, so I think ultimately we'll be using individual boards. In terms of nail gun, yeah, got a propane fired one that I really enjoy, and my father-in-law has an air compressor and finish nailer, so we're all set there.

The dining room ceiling is accoustic tile over furring strips over joists. So, we remove the tiles and apply the boards directly to the strips? Or should there some some sort of intermediate layer?

The kitchen is textured drywall that I'll probably end up replacing with new before putting in the board. We're going to have wood floors installed - meeting tonight with a local guy to find out what our options are. Here's a question I hadn't thought of before: beadboard parallel or perpendicular to the direction of the floor boards?

Thanks for taking the time! This is really appreciated.

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[kactuskid]

If you decide to go with the tongue and groove 1x6" pine boards then you'll want to remove the tiles and you can remove the furring strips. If this ceiling has an attic above it then look to see if the insulation above has a vapor barrier facing downwards towards the room. If it doesn't then you'll want to install a vapor barrier of 6 mil plastic across the ceiling joist first, then you nail your boards perpendicular onto the ceiling joist. If this ceiling is between floors then you can just install the boards directly to the joist with no vapor barrier needed.

You can install them at a 90 deg angle or you can install them on a slant, though you'll use more wood this way. This all so you have a nailing surface to nail the planks to. And you should stagger your seems on the butt ends to make it look better if the boards fall short of full length.

The beadboard 4x8 panels can be installed either parrellel or perpendicular. If you install it parrellel though, you'll have to fall in the middle of a joist so that the piece installed next to it also has a nailing surface. If this is an older home and the joist are 24" on center and the cieling used to be plaster, your chances of these joist beging exactly 24" on center are slim. Sometimes they vary between 24" and 30" so you need to measure the distances to see what will work best for you.

[seamlyne]

It's all good, thanks! Is there a rule of thumb with beadboard ceilings in rooms with wood floors as to whether or not the beads should run in the same direction as the floorboards? (taking the direction of the joists into account, of course) Or does it matter at all?

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[seamlyne]

Oh, painted ceiling, so we'll probably use panels. I'll find SOME creative way to hide the 4' seam.

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[kactuskid]

I guess how the beads run would be a matter of taste, though I would think it would look better if they ran the same direction as the flooring.

As for the seams, the 4' seams will be landed on a ceiling joist that it shares with the next panel. To hide the seam just paint the joist the same color as the final color of the bead panel. This way it won't show as much. And if the 4' side is not shipplapped, then I think you'll want to leave a space the width of a dime to accomidate any movement from expansion or contraction due to the humidity in you home.

[KSever]

I'd be curious to see how the ceiling turned out? Any pictures of the finished project yet? We'd planned to do beadboard ceilings in the kitchen but I'm going to get the kitchen done first with drywall and then go back and redo the ceiling in beadboard.

[seamlyne]

Not, not yet

We haven't gotten that far. We discovered termites while replacing a couple of windows, and the new framing/sheathing/siding completely ate up our budget, so the ceiling's got to wait. I will post photos when it's done, though don't hold up your project waiting for me!