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  • warped walls

    I am finishing my basement.

    I built some walls last year and I am now getting back to the task. Problem is many of the vertical boards are warped now either in or out. I don't think replacing all (many) of these boards are the answer. Won't they just warp again? I did not force the wall into place so the floor above expanding did not force down on the framing.

    My plan was to notch across the wall and screw in some horizontal boards to pull the bad ones back in place. Will this work?

    Also, I have poured walls that I believe were done by a crew of drunks. Putting framed walls against this surface and keeping them plum is a real pain. I pull the top or bottom out until they are plum. One eight foot section of wall I may get right, but the next butting eight foot section may be the exact opposite. Keeping these two sections in line is next to impossible. My question is how important is it really to get these walls perfectly vertically level? Obviously perfect is best, but if I keep the "bubble" inside the ticks but not perfect, will it be real noticeable once the walls are sheetrocked? That really sounds stupid but any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Yes, the notches and screw trick should work, if not, I would consider metal studs. Plumb walls are best, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. Ever consider making a pattern of in out wall sections so it looks like it was done on perpose? In otherwords duplicate the same on the opposite walls so it matches.
    If you think a professional is expensive,
    Just see what till you see what an amature will cost you!!

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    • #3
      I fail to realize the problem with the in and out poured walls dilemna. For any straight uninterupted run, you need to first plum a 2 x 4 at the far left end. Then do another at the far right end. Then attach builders string between the top of 2 x 4's at their front facings (i.e., to give you an idea of what I mean, the string wil be like 3 1/2 inches out from the poured walls, or perhaps a little more than that due to the amount you have to bring the studs inward.) Then for the bottom of the 2 x 4's you can chaulk a line on the floor between the outside facings of the far left and far right studs. Then, use a tape measure or piece of 2 x 4 and go along the top of the wall and also the bottom of the wall... and if you find areas less than 3 1/2 inches back to the poured wall...then you have to bring out the end studs by whatever amount that is. For example: If you found one area in the wall where it was only 2 1/2 inches, then you would have to bring out the end studs 1 inch further, at least.

      *IF* you were only thwarted by some spot in the wall that occupied perhaps 2 or 3 studs, you would have the option of doing what I said above, or, ripping down those 2 or 3 studs to a leser width. (But only for a small amount because otherwise you would loose thickness of the wall for insulating purposes.) Take your pick. But either way, these are viable ways to making your wall come out plumb.

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      • #4
        Thanks Phelps. Very helpful and I fully understand.

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