Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tub Surround drywall

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Tub Surround drywall

    We are going to install ceramic tile in our tub surround, but we have a 1/2 inch gap at each end of the tub between the stub and tub. Should we install drywall to fill that gap and then put another sheet of drywall on top of that to cover the tub flange?

  • #2
    usually the tub goes right onto the studs all the way around and then the drywall or cement board goes on the stds and overlaps the tub wall. check with pushkins, but I guess you can fill the space with waterproof sheetrock THEN go over that with the cement board.

    Comment


    • #3
      I see this problem a lot, usually when the old tub had a mesh and mortar build up then tile.
      You can use a waterproof drywall as a "filler" then add your backer board over the top, (you should be using a concrete based backer board to lay your tile on)
      BUT a much better option is
      to get your self some pine strips of wood from Lowe's/Home Depot and nail these to the studs, then screw on your backer board, basically your extending your studs out to fill the gap. Also while you have to wall open it's a great idea to install some R13 insulation in the wall cavities, even if these wall are not exterior it helps cut down bathroom noise transition to adjacent rooms.

      On a separate note is that galvanized pipe I see connected to the copper ?
      Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
      Every day is a learning day.

      Comment


      • #4
        Pipe

        First, thank you for the quick responses. Your answers have helped us greatly. If you're asking about the pipe sticking straight out into the tub, that's just temporary. If you're asking about the other pipe going down into the ground, our plumber put all of that in, so I assume that's all proper.

        Comment


        • #5
          please double check those two pipes going down from the copper adapters. IF they are galvanized iron, you are going to have problems down the line. your plumber should have known. copper + galvanized [zinc] produces a battery and electrolysis will eat away at the galvanized making a leak. at least have him put in a dielectric nipple or dielectric union between the two.

          Comment


          • #6
            Pipes

            Ok, thanks, I'll check with the plumber. We are such amatuers. Does the backer board HAVE to come down over the tub flange?

            Comment


            • #7
              the spacers that pushkins was speaking about just go on the studs to bring the backer board just even with the tub flange. the bottom edge of the backerboard should go down over the tub flange and up from the tub proper about a quarter inch

              Comment


              • #8
                The original pipe coming up from the floor is what I was commenting on, it kinda looks like old copper, but the part that has me questioning is that I cannot see any solder marks between old and new and in fact it kind of looks like I can see some thread tape on the left side joint (copper to whatever it is).
                You can either space out to fill the tub to stud void or make the furring strip (spacer on stud) it a little bigger so that you cemet backer board comes down to like Hayzee mentioned 1/4"-1/2" off the tub. If you don't want to have the bigger spacer or it is too difficult, bring he backer board down as far as you can to the top lip of the tub, the space that may remain below the backer board and tub should then be filled with a thicker coat of tile glue when your tiling.
                Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
                Every day is a learning day.

                Comment

                Working...
                X
                =