Soundproofing walls

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  • 2112
    New Member
    • Dec 2003
    • 18

    #1

    Soundproofing walls

    The ranch condo i live in has about 6 inches of blown in insulation in the wall between me and my neighbor. This is a very poor sound deadener. Is there anything i can do to reduce the sound between walls
    Thanks
    dave
  • Jimmer
    Apprentice
    • Oct 2003
    • 274

    #2
    Dave,

    The best way to reduce sound transfer is to provide a complete separation. The vibration right now is picked up by the drywall, transferred through the stud and through your drywall. By using an airspace and steel track you can really reduce the transfer. It will cost you 5" of space in your room to do the best job.

    Build a new 2x4 wall a half inch away from the current wall. Do not attach the new wall to the old in any way. Insulate the new wall. Add Resilient Channel (light steel track) to the studs running horizontally. Attach 5/8" type 'x' fire rated wallboard to the steel track (not the studs).

    You can even buy paint that has a special additive to absorb sound.

    This method is the best I know to stop sound transfer. You could do some or all of it. For example... just add resilient track horizontally to your current wall, then the 5/8" wallboard.

    Good luck, Jim

    'Just a handyman trying to help'
    'Just a handyman trying to help'

    Comment

    • upfront
      New Member
      • Sep 2009
      • 14

      #3
      A question on resiliant channel, I have never worked with it. I have a customer that wants it on the interior walls. I am to do the framing of the walls. Do I install this or do the drywallers?
      If I need to install it, were do I install it?
      Horazontaly I presume, 2 ft centers?

      Comment

      • pushkins
        General Contractor
        • Mar 2006
        • 1895

        #4
        Usually the dry wall installers install the channel.
        It's kinda a hard process of sound proofing the channel must not be screwed down hard to anything (loose screws) and the drywall attached to it must be loose screwed as well. Soundproofing is all about not giving a good path for sound to travel and the tighter the attachments the better the sound can travel.
        The channel is best attached to the studs horizontally this gives only 1 1/2" of contact rather than a whole 8' length is it's attached vertically.
        You can also and should buy resilient channel gasket material, this goes between the channel and stud and again acts as a means of differing the noise transgression.
        Sound proofing drywall is also available it has a rubber membrane that helps as well.
        Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
        Every day is a learning day.

        Comment

        • serasmith
          New Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1

          #5
          Resilient channels, mass loaded vinyl etc. are more traditional methods of soundproofing. As Pushkins said, soundproofing drywall is a good option. Heard of QuietRock? It’s got good reviews. And it also seems to be the newer, more cost effective and better performing option to these older techniques of soundproofing. Check up on QuietRock.com. Seems like it’s really going to help you out!

          Comment

          • Ted White
            New Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 7

            #6
            Serasmith. You work for that company, and your post would be considered SPAM...

            Comment

            • Ted White
              New Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 7

              #7
              Originally posted by 2112
              The ranch condo i live in has about 6 inches of blown in insulation in the wall between me and my neighbor. This is a very poor sound deadener. Is there anything i can do to reduce the sound between walls
              Thanks
              dave
              Dave,

              You can add standard 5/8" drywall ($7 a sheet) and damp the wall with competent damping compound. Add drywall right over what you have now.

              OR

              Remove the drywall to expose the wall studs, decouple the wall by modifying to a staggered stud wall (simple to do and very inexpensive), then adding double drywall (same cheap 5/8" mentioned).

              There is really no justification for expensive factory damped "soundproof" drywall when you build it better for less.

              Comment

              • upfront
                New Member
                • Sep 2009
                • 14

                #8
                Ted,
                Did you see the date on daves post ? I am sure his project is done. As is mine.
                thx for all your help
                Last edited by upfront; 06-22-2010, 06:11 AM.

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