well it is the season to get your deck ready for summer. I am glad to answer any questions on how to clean and stain/seal your deck.
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Tis the season--- for staining decks
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Last fall I got frustrated with the moss that had grown on my deck and scrubbed it with full-strength bleach. It certainly took the moss off, but I am guessing I'll have to put a couple of extra coats of wood preservative on the deck (at least on the scrubbed spots) before stain?? The wood's not damaged but it's pretty bare-looking. Thanks for any advice.
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frustration
I totally understand your frustration on moss and mold growning on your deck. Last year was one of the worst years in the east for rain and up and down temperature change. My deck had mold on it and i clean it twice a year. To your question. Bleach is very very harsh when used straight on a deck and I would never recommend it. Bleach straight will dry out and split deck boards and shorten the life of the wood. Best thing ever to clean a deck with is Olympic Premium Deck Cleaner. Yes it has bleach in it but it also has many soaps that will help remover dirt and lift dirt and mold to surface. With that said I would clean your deck this year with a deck cleaner and then use a toner or semi-transparent stain Maximum by olympic is great i have found. One thin coat is all u need to stain and seal the deck.
Hope that answers all if not please ask.
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I am building a deck in the next few weeks. Going to use normal pressure treated. I know you have to wait to seal, should I be good to go next spring? What stain and sealer do you recommend (not sure if I am going to stain yet).
Location...Bloomington, MN
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great question
first the pressure treated lumber you buy is a copper based treatment. It has changed several times in the last ten years. I know for a fact that you do not want to wait a year before staining or sealing. Wood will start to show UV damage(graying) as soon as three months. My advice, give the deck a couple weeks after you have built it then stain it. Don't worry if the deck boards you are buying are wet, they are wet from water from shipping not from pressure treatment. Most of the lumber spend few weeks stacked together on rail cars in the rain, etc. So, give it a couple weeks then stain. Easy way to check if you don't have a moisture meter(which most people don't) is to sprinkle water on the deck if it absorbs with in two to four seconds you are ready to stain. Olympic products are for IMMEDIATE use on pressure treated wood. I am no fan of clears I have to say. I love a good toner or a semi-transparent oil stain. Olympic Maximum is a great stain for the price. Clears will always last the least amount of time no matter what brand, reason, they block the least amount of UV light. So, check out a nice light natural toner get yourself 3 good years before you have to get back to stain it again. Hope this helps you make a decision.
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Wow, thanks for the great advise, I have never heard of staining the same year.
Is the Olympic Maximum a stain and sealer in one step? Available at Mendards, Home Depot?
Finally, the deck will only be about 13" off the ground so I cannot stain, seal a great majority of the deck. This is the case in many applications, is staining, sealing the planks and end boards good, leaving the posts and joists unprotected?
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great question
Olympic Maximum is sold at Lowe's as well as mom and pop hardware stores. Second, yes as you will find with most all stains the stain and sealer is all one step. One thin coat is best, never ever two-- this can lead to excessive product on the deck also known as flashing. Some products require all six sides of the board be sealed for the warranty . I guess about half do not. Olympic is one that it is not required for the warranty. Plus remember that UV light, sung light is the main cause of stain/sealer failure. UV light is what causes your deck to turn gray not rain. Your deck is close to the same height as mine. I have had my deck up for 5 years now. I just stained but before i did I turned a board over to check for any rot and there was none. So, I say build your deck take a break for a week or so then brush some stain on there. You will thank me that you don't have to clean it then seal it.
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NO its not
Olympic Maximum is Olympic Maximum sold at Lowes also sold at Do it best and other hardware stores. It is not called ultra. If you are up in Michigan it might be called ultra if you are at Menards.
Make sure you are not looking at Tompsons advanced it does not contain the trans-oxide pigments that the Olympic Max will it also will not last you much longer than one year.
If you are looking for a specific product of Olympic go to Olympic Paint and Stain - Interior House Paint, Exterior Home Paint, Wood Stain, and Deck Stain they have a great site that will tell you where you can get the item in question.
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I finished a couple months ago. At first it looked great, nice and rich and water would just bead up on it. Now it looks old already and a little grayed. Also, water does not bead up like it did. Is this normal? I am worried that it is not protected like it should be.
I think I mentioned I used cedar naturaltone and like I said I got the Ultra Advanced that is supposed to be the Maximum (5 year protection).
Thanks
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As long as you cleaned the deck with deck cleaner, tsp or the like it is normal that the beading will subside some.
Your deck is protected. If the deck was gray when you sealed it, it will shorten the life of the product and give it a gray or ish look.
hope this helps.
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This was brand new wood that I left unportected for about a month and a half. I did not clean it before I stained since it was new, I didn't think I needed to. It hasen't really gotten any worse and I posted that question about 2 months ago. It still looks pretty good, just reminds me of stain that is a year or two old instead of a few months old.
Was not cleaning it going to hurt me even though it was brand new?
It is normal for water to not bead up anymore? The beading only laster the first 2 weeks or so.Last edited by DKAudio; 10-17-2007, 05:08 PM.
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