Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Strange problem with SEARS 139.53918D

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Strange problem with SEARS 139.53918D

    I have a Sears belt drive 3/4HP battery backup opener model 139.53918D. Manufactured Nov, 2012 purchased and installed by me 12/12.
    Has worked beautifully and flawlessly...until this morning.
    Noted a bulb out on the right side (with the wires for the sensors and wall control). As soon as I opened the lens, the door opened and control panel went out. I checked the wiring in the top, removed the control wires and reconnected them. This caused the ​door to open​. When I reconnected the wiring to the control, the control was still blank. I disconnected the power and the battery thinking I would somehow reset the opener to no avail. I again removed the wires from the connection and redid it.
    Now the strange part. As when I opened the lens cover, this time closing it, it caused the door to open/ close. There was no catching of the wires which I had neatly placed in the clip on the housing. The control panel now lit gave an error message which disappeared before I could write it down.

    After negotiation with the opener (it has a life of its own) I got it working properly with all systems go on the control panel. I am still convinced there is an issue but am leaving it alone for now.

    All this to change a light bulb!!

    Any ideas???

    UPDATE same day 4PM. Went out and came home to find the same problem, some new diagnostic information:
    I picked up new bell wire and installed it to rule out the wire. Same problem. The control panel works intermittently but no go.
    May be helpful to know that all of the remotes are working fine, outdoor keypad and all homelink buttons in the cars.

    At this point, either the wall mount control panel itself or the motherboard.

    Again, any input would be appreciated.

    **************************************

    Update March 2014- Same as above except this time the wall control does not work at all. Interesting, then I PUSH on the wire terminals on the logic board, the door opens and closes (???) I re stripped the bell wire, used a volt meter to confirm that it is intact, and it still does not work.
    I tried to call Sears several months ago and was told UNDER WARRANTY that I would have to pay $100 for someone to come to my home to assess the unit. I could otherwise bring it in (really?) for no charge and leave it there for diagnostic, they would not just exchange it.

    If I knew it was the logic board, I would buy one for $75 and install myself. Model of the unit is 41DB102-2
    Any ideas? I am going to call Sears Consumer Affairs this week to express my displeasure.
    Last edited by thew60; 03-30-2014, 10:19 AM. Reason: new information

  • #2
    I'm sorry if this sound like a cheap answer. Call the tech support and they will trouble shoot it with you over the phone. It can be a bad connection somewhere or pinch wire. You can disconnect the wires for the wall control @ the motor head to eliminate that.

    Comment


    • #3
      bump updated info

      Comment


      • #4
        As its not the new MyQ system, when you short the 2 wires to the wall control it will operate the opener. So faulty wall control or logic board. I always have some parts from old working openers that I can switch around and eliminate the problem. With the wires for the wall control disconnected at the motor head and with gently push/pull/wiggle the block where the wires connect to on the motor head, if that operates the door you have the problem, you might want to take the board out and look closely for any damage to the wire connector block. If all good, then I will point finger at the wall control.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by TJR View Post
          As its not the new MyQ system, when you short the 2 wires to the wall control it will operate the opener. So faulty wall control or logic board. I always have some parts from old working openers that I can switch around and eliminate the problem. With the wires for the wall control disconnected at the motor head and with gently push/pull/wiggle the block where the wires connect to on the motor head, if that operates the door you have the problem, you might want to take the board out and look closely for any damage to the wire connector block. If all good, then I will point finger at the wall control.
          You hit the nail right on the head. When I was troubleshooting I did exactly that. I disconnected the wall control and noticed that when I jiggled the wires in the logic board it caused the door to open and close, immediately telling me the logic board was bad. I replaced the logic board myself. It was not that bad. Now, the garage door opener works as it should have from the day I installed it. Absolutely no assistance from Sears, and I have been fighting with them for several weeks to get reimbursed my cost of replacing the board.

          Comment

          Working...
          X
          =