Lift-Master garage door opener intermittent problem

[ddyaz]

I have an intermittent opener problem. When failing, none of my 3 remotes will operate the door, only the wall switch works. Resetting the code(s) doesn't help. When it's working, all remotes and the wall switch function properly. I suspect a failure in the circuit board. I see there is a replacement receiver available from Lift-Master, as well as the more expensive circuit board. Does replacing the receiver bypass/replace the circuit board? Any other suggestions?
Thanks, ddyaz

[kencraw]

Do you have the multi-function wall station? If so, next time the remotes don't work check to make sure nobody has put the wall station in "lock" mode.

I would also recommend checking the batteries in the remotes. I know, all three fail at the same time however it is possible to have a bad "lot" of batteries if all three came from a bulk package.

If none of the above resolve the issue, I would go with a new logic board. Sounds like either the board is going bad, (not storing codes) or there is radio frequency interference.

You didn't mention what model you have or how old it is, but I am guessing you have a newer model with push button on the opener for programming rather than the old dip switches.

[ddyaz]

Thanks Kencraw. The model is Lift-Master 41A5021-1C with rotating codes and red reset button. One of the remotes is a factory Homelink unit in my car, so the battery issue shouldn't be a factor. A typical scenario is (1) open door with wall switch, (2) back car out and try to close door with car remote, (3) door won't close, even with repeated attempts, (4) return to wall switch and race to door to jump over photo sensor before door hits me on the head, (5) Leave on errand, (6) Return some time later and, "Voila", the door will always open with the car remote, (7) Drive into garage.....normally at this point I would close the door with the wall switch (and it would work), but if I instead would try to close it with any of the remotes it wouldn't work. Also, between steps 4, 5, 6, above, no one has touched the wall switch so your thought about the lock function doesn't seem to be a factor. When the unit decides to work, none of the above applies. I can alternately, or in succession, use any of the switch/remote combinations and the door will open/close as intended.
Does this scenario raise any other thoughts?
Thanks, ddyaz

[kencraw]

If the door is opening with the remotes but not closing with them, change out the logic board. There is no frequency issue if the remotes are opening the door.

Now one oddball thing to consider before replacing the board (BTW the model number you gave is for the logic board).

Before closing the door and before going to the wall station, check out both LED lights on the photo sensor eyes. The LED should be lit on both sensors. Now, if one happens to not be illuminated..go stand by your wall station button and see if it illuminates. I only say this because I had a customer who had a similar issue. Turns out there was a light reflection hitting one of the sensors, causing the safety mechanism to not allow the door to close. When he walked over to his wall station, his shadow would block the light reflection obstructing the sensor. The reflection came from a light bouncing off a shovel head. Crazy I know, but it happens.

If that is not the case in your situation, replace the logic board.

[ddyaz]

Thanks for the reply. I did check out the LEDs and they are both on, but this failure happens night or day so the reflection possibility is not an issue. However, I did discover one other interesting detail....I found that the remotes will work as long as the light on the opener is OFF. That is why, in the scenario I posted earlier, the car remote wouldn't work after I backed the car out, but it would always open the door when I came back home. The light of course would be on in the short time after I backed out, but would be out when I returned later. To test this out I repeatedly was able to both open and close the door with the remote....but it would only work if I waited for the light timer to turn the light off. If the light was on the remote would neither open nor close the door.
I believe the failure is in the circuit board as you also suggested, but does this issue with the light timer point to something else?
Also, are you familiar with the LiftMaster 535LM replacement receiver? It sounds like it is a replacement for a rolling code receiver, or an upgrade for an opener without the Security+ codes. This unit is quite a bit cheaper than the circuit board, but I don't know if it would solve my problem....especially with this new issue with the light timer.
Also, that model number 41A5021-1C is the only number I can find on this opener other than the 1/3 HP Security+ designation. On one of the websites I accessed I found a cross reference showing the circuit board needed for this 1C number is a 41A5021-1I.
Thanks again for your help.

[kencraw]

The issue sounds more like the logic board. A replacement reciever would help if you were having radio frequency issues, which is not the case here. Somehwere in the logic board the light is canceling the close function or over-riding the safety sensor. A receiver is not going to rectify that issue. The number you gave originally is the part number for the logic board, so you have that.

Out of curiosity though, what size bulb are you using in the opener? Not that it should matter, but if you are using a 100watt bulb or anything higher than a 60watt, you might be heating a circuit causing the issue. Highly unlikely, but a possibility.

[ddyaz]

Well, I confirmed it is the circuit board. I Have a 3 car garage with a second identical opener on the second door. I swapped the boards and the problem followed. But now I have another problem. I reprogramed the remotes to match the changed configuration and they are all working except the Homelink in my car will not work for door A. I have programmed and re-programmed it repeatedly. The Homelink will work for door B (originally opener A) but not on the main door A. Occasionally after repeated attempts I can get door A to open from the car, so the programming seems to be OK, but the rolling codes don't seem to be syncing up as they should. As I said, door B works fine from the car (as long as the opener light isn't on......ha) so I know I'm going through the programming steps properly. I even tried programming an alternate button in my car for the door A and it will not work, but if I program this same alternate button for door B it works fine. This kind of points me back to a problem with the receiver, but it seems like a little much of a coincidence that all of a sudden I would have these two separate problems on two different openers. At this point I am going to order the circuit board we know is bad, and see how that works with my Homelink remote.
Thanks again for your help.

[kencraw]

HMMMM...If you see this before you purchase a new circuit board, try something crazy. Remove the battery from the Homelink. Then try using the other remotes. Off chance rare possibility the Homelink might be causing interference. Doubtful, but worth a shot before spending the money.

[ddyaz]

I'm not sure I'm following you on this one. The Homelink involved here is a factory installed unit in my car....thus powered by the car battery. There may be something weird going on with the Homelink, but remember it was operating both doors before I swapped the circuit boards. I think tomorrow I'm going to program the remotes back the way they were and see if I can consistently open the doors...understanding that door B will still have the light timer issue.

[Homefixr]

ddyaz,

Did changing the logic board fix your problem? I've got a similar (intermittent) problem.

Thanks,

[tcupanman]

Hi ddyaz -

I'm seeing a similar issue. Did swapping the logic board fix your issue with the remotes not being able to close the door? Thanks!!

[Homefixr]

ddyaz,

Did changing the logic board fix your problem? I've got a similar (intermittent) problem.

Thanks,

Never mind - found one on eBay and it fixed the problems I was having.

[ddyaz]

Actually, I have not yet replaced the circuit board and am living with the problem. I did swap the board with the identical opener on the other door of my 3-car garage and the problem moved with the board. So I know the problem is in the board. Right now the problem opener (board) is on my golf cart door and is not often used. One of these days I'll get tired of living with the problem and will spend the bucks to replace the board.

[j44p]

LED bulbs installed in opener interfere with remotes.

I too had intermittent problems with remotes. Long story short: LED bulbs installed in the opener interfere with remotes.

Long story: I noticed that the remotes would stop working whenever I had operated the door in the past 5 minutes or so. My opener turns the lights on for 4.5 minutes after each use. I guessed the lights were somehow causing a problem. So, I used the light button (on the multi-function door control) to turn off the light, and then all the remotes worked right away. Next, I swapped a regular light bulb for the LED bulb, and the entire problem disappeared.

To tell the truth, it took about 3 hours of troubleshooting to get to the bottom of this. I hope this helps someone.

[HayZee518]

LEDs

I suppose the old technology isn't up to date with the new technology. The LED bulbs have a circuit to change the AC to DC and a current limiting resistor. Keep using the incandescent until someone comes up with a plan.