deadbolt installation

[supadart]

Hi all,

I have a door that needs a deadbolt. It's metal with a wood core. I have hole saws and a pretty good selection of tools at my disposal, but I'm no carpenter or locksmith.

How hard would it be for me to install the deadbolt and prepare the frame for the strike and the deadbolt hole? Or should I hit the yellow pages?

Thanks -Gary

[HayZee518]

The deadbolt comes with an installation template. Figure out what height you want it and fold the paper template for the location off the door edge. Prick punch it with a punch and hammer then drill a 1/8" hole right through the steel door. Using the right sized hole saw (it has a 1/4" pilot drill) gently drill through the metal until the drill breaks through. Then use the slowest speed your drill has or you're gonna break the pilot and (close the door and brace it) start the hole saw into the metal. Use steady light pressure and some oil to lubricate the saw. When it breaks through the metal, stop and clear out the metal disk. Now go on the other side and do the same.
Continue through the wood, first from one side then the other. Now the template should have located the lock plunger also. Use the right size hole saw or spade bit and drill through horizontally throught the wood.
With the dead bolt extended close the door and mark on the jamb using a pencil where the bolt lines up. Use a combination square and transcribe these lines to the jamb. At the exact center use a spade bit larger than the bolt diameter and drill in about 7/16". Put your strike center on this hole and mark the outside lines. Use a chisel and chisel out enough wood so the strike lays flat. Screw it into place. Oh, yah the bolt might have to be recessed into the door wood a touch.

[LazyPup]

Fundamentally installing a lockset on a steel door is the same process as installing a lockset on a wood door, however, having said that, I must also say that peoperly installing a lockset on any door is one of the most precision undertakings in all of home repair.

The drilling phase is simple, it is the initial layout that is critical. So critical in fact that most practicing locksmiths and finish carpenters rely upon a lockset installation jig to get everything aligned properly.

I can not empasize enough, READ THE MANUFACTURERS LAYOUT CAREFULLY before you begin. An error as small as 1/16th of an inch may result in a lockset that will continually bind and not operate properly. You will not get a second chance to drill a door so the layout must be exact the first time.

The first step of the layout is to determine the finished elevation of the lockset. The elevation is above the finished floor, therefore you must make allowance for the amount of gap at the bottom of the door for the threashold. Thus if your finished door is going to hang 1/2" above the finished floor and you desire the lockset at a 36" elevation, the elevation is 35 1/2" from the bottom of the door slab. This is critical to insure the bolt is going to properly meet the matched strike hole in the jamb.

Once you have the elevation marked on one side of the door, use a marking square to transfer that elevation across the edge of the door and around to the opposite side.

Check your manufacturers specifications carefully to find what the proper baskset is for your lockset. Typically it is 2 3/8" but that may vary from 2 1/8" to 2 3/4" or even 3 1/8"

Make a vertical backset mark on the elevation line then carefully make a center punch dimple at the intersection of those two lines. Repeat that process on the opposide side of the door.

Using a sharp drill bit, drill a center pilot hole on the setpunch mark on both sides of the door.

Check your manufactures specifications for the cylander hole diameter (typically 2 1/8") and select the proper size metal cutting hole saw. Carefully drill in from the face of the door 1/2 way through the door, then move to the other side of the door and drill in from the opposite face until the second hole meets the first one and the plug will come out.

It is critical that your drill must be perfectly at right angles to the face of the door while drilling to insure the two holes will properly meet.

Measure the thickness of the door, and divide the thichness in half, then make a mark on the elevation line at the 1/2 way mark. Center punch that mark, pilot drill it. (Note- many doors have a weld seam on the edge right where you have to drill the pilot hole so drill very carefully and be sure you have a sharp bit.)

Check your manufacturers specifications and select the appropriate diameter hole saw (typically 3/4") to cut the hole for the bolt.

Once you have cut through the steel cover you can use a spade bit to drill out the wood core until the hole is all the way through to the cylander hole. Again, check your manufactuers specifications carefully as some deadbolts require the bolt hole to be extended another 3/4" deeper than the cylander hole.

This is not a difficult job, but again, the layout and drilling technique is critical. If you are working with an expensive door and you have not done this before, it may be best to leave this job to a pro.

[supadart]

Thanks for all the info. I'll give it a try in a few days and let you know how it goes. I'll also take the old "measure 47 times, cut once" addage into account, as I always seem to get everything lined up about 1/8" off. [:0]

Thanks again!
-Gary