Refrigerator tripping GFI

[tiggers]

Hi all. Weekend repair hobbyist here. I could really use some help troubleshooting a fridge that keeps tripping a GFI.

Here’s the background: Frigidare side-by-side, model: FRS24ZSF about 10 years old. Ice maker is off. The fridge is in the garage (beer and frozen pizza mostlyJ) and has worked off the GFI for the last year (I know “no GFI” but it was the closest plug for a convenient fridge location). One day found the freezer door was ever so slightly open. I’m not sure how long it was going, but it looked like it was forming a nice soft snow bank by the door crack. I closed the door and let the kids know (it just had to be them!) to be sure to keep it closed. Two days later I go out and the fridge had tripped the GFI. Luckily things were still frozen inside so it was all moved into the kitchen freezer quickly.

I started trouble shooting and thought the problem was the excess water I found in the freezer section that was causing a short. But after letting it dry for a couple of days it did not fix the problem.

After playing around with it for a little, I can turn the temperature switch to off, plug in the fridge and lights come on. Turn temperature switch to cool and most times the GFI pops. Sometimes (earlier in the testing) it would turn on and start to cool for a while, but would eventually pop the GFI. I thought at first the defrost cycle might be tripping it, but advancing the timer did NOT do the trick (it would still pop the GFI when the temperature dial is turned from off position). I did try plugging it into a separate 20amp circuit, and it would appear to run, although the fridge lights would dim noticeably when the compressor kicked in. Tried it on a second GFI circuit for kicks, but it still popped the GFI. Followed some instructions for testing the compressor leads, and they checked seemed to check out (2.6, 4.5, 7.0 ohms). Starter capacitor is not shorted as well.

I believe the relay switch is the culprit. It did not look to be in the best of condition. The casing on the relay seemed to be loose, but still integral enough when plugged in to work. It did have a faint smell of burned plastic when I held it up close. I’m guessing that this piece probably overheated when the freezer door was left open.

Before I start throwing down cash for a new relay, should I be checking/testing any other components? From what I’ve already researched it seems to point to this. Or could the relay a symptom of another problem?

Thank you

[HayZee518]

a GFCI trips because of a current imbalance. 5 amps in - 5 amps out - no brainer! something inside is causing an imbalance,
if you had a meggar you could test the windings with respect to earth ground.
you could bypass the whole system by plugging the freezer into a circuit that didn't have gfci protection.

[Dan O.]

you could test the windings with respect to earth ground.

That is what would be needed to test for a short to ground. You can read about testing an element for a short to ground at this link. Testing the compressor would be similar.

LINK > Testing for Short to Ground

One day found the freezer door was ever so slightly open. I’m not sure how long it was going, but it looked like it was forming a nice soft snow bank by the door crack. I closed the door

Someone might need to insect the evaporator (cooling) coil for an excessive frost built up. If it hasn't been thoroughly defrosted manually, it might require it... although that is not causing the shorting.

I believe the relay switch is the culprit

I doubt it would cause a short to ground but it very well could be defective they way you describe it and need to be replaced before it fails outright, possibly damaging the compressor in the process.

JMO

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[tiggers]

Ok. Repeated measuring the compressor pins to ground (copper pipes) per Dan_O's suggestion and links (highest ohm range) and found the same: no readings from each pin to the copper pipes.

(I confirmed that there was conductivity between the copper pipes just to make sure I was doing it right)

So I'm guessing that is a good thing as (I think) it is showing that the windings/electrical path inside the compressor haven't shorted to ground (?)

[HayZee518]

OK, the readings then are normal with respect to a winding shorted to ground. NEXT, if you can get hold of a clamp around ammeter, check the current in the hot wire and white wire with the compressor operating. they should be equal. since the refrigerator is not a readily movable appliance, why would you plug it into a gfci receptacle? it could be plugged into a regular 120 volt receptacle.

[tiggers]

I finally was able to get my hands on a clamp multi-meter to test the white and red wire amperage into the compressor. It was to difficult to get the clamp around either the red or white wire at the relay, so I had to go about a foot worth of wire from the relay to make the measurement. I’ve not used one of these before, but I don’t think this should matter.

I plugged it into my garage 20-amp circuit and turned the fridge on (again, noticeable dimming of the frig light when the compressor kicked on). The clamp meter seems to be a bit sensitive as to the location of the wire in the clamp when a measurement is taken, so I made sure to hold the red wire in the same location in the clamp as the white wire. The red wire seems to be about .1 amps more than the white wire on average. About 1.5-1.6 amps when it seemed to reach a steady state.

Just another note when I tried plugging in the fridge into the GFI (garage and kitchen): first plug-in with the fridge off, and relay disconnected, would trip the GFI. Resetting the GFI would allow the lights to come on, and allow me to turn the fridge on (no compressor, but defrost fan would run). Not sure if it’s another clue as to what’s going on, but it’s what I observed.

I went ahead and ordered a new relay. Even if it isn’t the problem, the fact that it was starting to come apart, along with the old burnt plastic smell, probably should be replaced regardless.

[tiggers]

Follow up: So I went back and wanted to see out what the peak amperage was as I noticed it would drift down to about 1.5-2 amps (depending on where in the clamp I held it) after I put the clamp on. I was curious to see how close to 15 amps (GFI circuit) it was.

And of course the fridge started doing something new . After the compressor came on, I would hear the relay click, and the compressor go off (I think first time I heard this since starting troubleshooting). Then a few seconds later it would kick back on. It did this a couple of times before it, along with power to the fridge fan/lights, went out. Before that I unplugged the fridge at least once when the compressor was off.
Now when I plug it in, the entire fridge is dead completely (EEKK!). Did something else blow? (breaker on 20-amp circuit is not tripped). If it was the relay, or even the compressor, that died I wouldn’t expect power to the entire fridge to go.

[tiggers]

Sorry for the deluge of info tonight. I went back to clean up and tried to plug it in one more time. Of course, after posting the above, lights came back on and compressor went on (white wire peaked at about 16.5 amps). Relay started to click again, so I powered down and unplugged. After disconnecting the power I heard the relay click again, so I’m assuming that it’s heat activated to protect the compressor (?). Unless someone has some other suggestions to look at/test, I’m going to leave it off till I get the new relay installed least my fiddling breaks something else.

[tiggers]

since the refrigerator is not a readily movable appliance, why would you plug it into a gfci receptacle? it could be plugged into a regular 120 volt receptacle.

To answer your question, it was a matter of convenience. It was the closest to the door into the house. Once I get it working reliably again, I'll probably move it to the back of my work area by the 20-amp plug (garage has only one. Don't know what the builder was thinking) and the kids/wife will just need to learn to walk a little farther to get their OJ.

[HayZee518]

A fridge's motor is protected by thermal overload relays. These may or not be embedded within the windings. A klixon overload is sometimes bolted to the compressor housing and has two wires coming off it. The klixon clicks when it trips and clicks when it resets. It is a bimetal relay. One metal part expands quicker than the other so it springs off contact and springs back on contact when it resets. The compressor relay that plugs in over the pins coming out of the compressor [the compressor is a hermetically sealed can] is current rated. The power cord may go to a terminal block and then to the parts of the fridge. As i said before the gfci trips because of current imbalance. A breaker blows open because of an overload or dead short between the hot and neutral or a hot and earth ground. Klixons open because of internal heat caused by excessive current through a winding. Lack of refrigeration oil travelling with the freon gas will cause overheating. Unless you have a definite leak and freon has leaked out, some oil may have exited the system. Places for leaks are where the tubing connects to the compressor - connection to the evaporator tubing or evaporator plate. High or low limits if your fridge has them.

[Dan O.]

If it was the relay, or even the compressor, that died I wouldn’t expect power to the entire fridge to go.

The relay and compressor's functioning should not affect anything else in the fridge.

first plug-in with the fridge off, and relay disconnected, would trip the GFI.

Than I would say the compressor is not the cause of the short. Each other electrical component might be able to be disconnected from the circuit one at a time to see if the short subsides with each isolation. Each of those components might also be able to be tested for a short to ground individually to check them. A short can also develop in the wiring harness itself too. Those can be difficult to track down.

And of course the fridge started doing something new . After the compressor came on, I would hear the relay click, and the compressor go off. Then a few seconds later it would kick back on.

That will be the compressor trying to start but failing. How long was the compressor off before trying to start it again? A compressor needs to be off for 10-15 minutes before starting up again. The refrigerant pressures inside The system need a chance to equalize before the compressor will start up again.

It did this a couple of times before it, along with power to the fridge fan/lights, went out.

Than power to the appliance likely went out. Did you test for power at the wall outlet even if the breaker didn't physically trip. Breakers can do that.

no compressor, but defrost fan would run

There is an evaporator fan in the freezer and many models have a condenser fan by the compressor. Both should be powered whenever the fridge is calling for cooling (whether the compressor is connected or not).

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[HayZee518]

troubleshooting a motor can be expensive considering the tools you need. for the average homeowner a basic analog multimeter should be sufficient. as you get more into it, a clamp around ammeter is next. this tool will measure current in the circuit. the jaws are clamped around a conductor [ NOT PHYSICALLY IN THE JAWS] it operates off the induced current surrounding any current carrying conductor. next, a meggar. this is a crank handle operated instrument without meter dampening, hence the needle swings all over the place, yet zeros in when a direct short exists or it is measuring a resistance. it generates a dc voltage of the 500 to 1000 volt magnitude to test out the copper windings and its insulation. it is a non destructive test.

[tiggers]

Than I would say the compressor is not the cause of the short. Each other electrical component might be able to be disconnected from the circuit one at a time to see if the short subsides with each isolation. Each of those components might also be able to be tested for a short to ground individually to check them. A short can also develop in the wiring harness itself too. Those can be difficult to track down.

Will try this if the new relay does not work.

That will be the compressor trying to start but failing. How long was the compressor off before trying to start it again? A compressor needs to be off for 10-15 minutes before starting up again. The refrigerant pressures inside The system need a chance to equalize before the compressor will start up again.

Ok, this I did not know. It was probably less than a minute when I tried again.

Than power to the appliance likely went out. Did you test for power at the wall outlet even if the breaker didn't physically trip. Breakers can do that.

Yes, using a lamp and the 'plug something in and see if it work right' method, as well as another extension cord, just in case.

[tiggers]

troubleshooting a motor can be expensive considering the tools you need. for the average homeowner a basic analog multimeter should be sufficient. as you get more into it, a clamp around ammeter is next. this tool will measure current in the circuit. the jaws are clamped around a conductor [ NOT PHYSICALLY IN THE JAWS] it operates off the induced current surrounding any current carrying conductor. next, a meggar.....

Multi-meter, check.
Excuse to get a clamp meter, check.
meggar, no go. To much to invest for this project

[tiggers]

After what has seemed like an eternity to get the replacement relay (Part #216008903) it finally arrived. I haven’t had a part ever take so long to get here, so I’m glad the fridge wasn’t critical.

Anyways, the new part is completely different from the old!!! I ordered 216008903, as stamped on the old part. It seems the manufacturer no longer makes it, so I received the replacement part 534426651.

For a visual, the old relay looked like the used part (not my actual part, but pic riped from an ebay post)

The new relay kit looks like the pic with the grids. The large white and black boxes are just shells that don’t seem to fit anything. The actual relay in the new kit is the little black box in the lower left corner. With the exception of the capacitor wires to the relay, none of the parts seem associated with the others.

How do I get the new relay connected? I can connect the fridge wires to the same relay terminals based on the old physical setup and wiring diagram. I had to remove the overload switch from the old relay to complete the circuit. But there does not appear to be anything in the new kit to make it all integral (i.e. a case or box to hold everything in place as one solid piece). Any advice from experience before I hookup and power on? I’d rather not go the ‘duct tape’ approach if I can help it.