Microwave nonfunctional but not broken?

[riverside]

Hello everyone,
I have a GE Dual Wave II Microwave System. It is an in wall microwave, range and oven unit. It was known as the GE "Spacemaker Microwave Cooking Center"; model JHP70N or perhaps JHP70V. The bad news is that with about 45 sec to go on a warm-up, the microwave quit; I have not been able to get it to start-up again. The good news (I hope) is that no function of the top control center works either; no clock, no timer, etc. All these functions are controled by a membrane. The bottom range and stove work fine; they are controled by a dial. What do you think? Seems the problem may not be the microwave itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

[HayZee518]

before the magnetron can turn on, the door interlocks have to be made up, the fuse for the power supply has to be good. I don't know what you mean by the "membrane" unless you are speaking of the tactile film type switches for the microwave. if liquids got into the membrane switches, I'd say the control is "toast" - it may be replaceable - check with GE.

[Dan O.]

Model number(s) incomplete

model JHP70N or perhaps JHP70V

Those are two different model numbers and both are incomplete. We would need the exact information right off the appliance's model and serial number identification tag, not from a manual if that's where you got those from.

no function of the top control center works either; no clock, no timer, etc. All these functions are controled by a membrane [switch].

Most microwaves have an internal fuse. I don't know about your model but someone could check its wiring diagram. There might also be a thermal protector which if tripped might shut down all power to the microwave unit. If just the control is inoperative making the microwave unusual, that control might have failed.

Some investigation will likely be required to determine the cause.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[riverside]

Hello,
Yes, by the "membrane" I am speaking of "tactile film type switches".

Where would I find the ID tag for the model number and serial number? I see nothing on the back of the unit and my invoice does not have them.

How would I get a wiring diagram or determine if there is a thermal protector? But would a thermal protector failure deactivate the clock and timer also?

Also, by "control", is this a unit that an can generally be replaced as a whole?

I am hoping for an internal fuse (but of course that leads to: "What caused the fuse to blow")

Thanks greatly for your help, I know it is not easy to give help off-site. Any more information needed I would be glad to supply.
Thanks again.

[Dan O.]

Where would I find the ID tag for the model number and serial number?

You can find tips for locating the model and serial number identification tag on your appliances at the following link:

LINK > Model Number Tag Location Guide

How would I get a wiring diagram

There was one on or in the appliance when it left the factory. On GE ranges it can often be found in the storage drawer area. If it is missing you could check with GE once you get the full model number to see if they can supply a replacement.

by "control", is this a unit that an can generally be replaced as a whole?

The "control" would be a circuit board. It will be behind the the membrane switch. And yes, if it is defective it (the circuit board) can be replaced.... if a replacement is still available. It is a separate part and will not include the membrane switch or any other parts from the control system.

JFYI


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[riverside]

Model and Serial Numbers found!

OK!
Model Number: JHP70N OK2AD
Serial Number: GZ901986M

Does this help us?

Thanks,
Doug

[HayZee518]

www dot repairclinic dot com lists 371 parts for the whole unit. you may need to inquire of GE for a schematic.

[Dan O.]

Model Number: JHP70N OK2AD
Serial Number: GZ901986M

Does this help us?

I don't see any fuses listed in that unit but someone could still check the wiring diagram. I don't have access to one. The control (# WB27X5399) if it is the cause would need to be sent out to be repaired as it has been discontinued and is no longer available new.

The appliance will still need to be investigated to find the possible cause.

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[riverside]

Would this work?

Would the control board WB27X5399X work?
Thanks.

[Dan O.]

Would the control board WB27X5399X work?

I don't know what that number is but it might be a remanufactured WB27X5399 control. Often suppliers add an "R" at the end of a part # to indicate a remanufactured part. Eg. WB27X5399R

The only place where WB27X5399X is listed is at Sears PartsDirect. You can check with them.

LINK > WB27X5399X at Sears PartsDriect


Someone is still going to have to investigate the unit to determine where the problem lies. There is no guaranty that part is the problem although it might be a possibility.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[riverside]

So with almost certainty it is a possible fuse, or controller unit? Nothing else readily comes to mind as a likely fault? I have sent a request to Sears as to the possibility of using the 'X' controller unit.
Thanks again.

[Dan O.]

So with almost certainty it is a possible fuse, or controller unit? Nothing else readily comes to mind as a likely fault?

It could be a wiring problem or there may be other protector(s) in the unit which might cause it as well. I can't say without having access to the unit's wiring diagram and doing some actual investigation, no.


JMO

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.

[drakewigeon]

I say just sell it and buy a new one.

[HayZee518]

Look guys, it was new. If the problem showed up shortly after installation, there would be a problem that the installer would be responsible for. So, here we sit downstream of the original install. A problem creeps and we're ready to chuck the whole thing into the garbage. Is it a fault that showed up that the manufacturer is responsible for? or is it something that just "happens" to go sour?
Magnetrons are tubes. They generate microwave energy. Microwave energy is funny. It is a controlled radar wave. If it goes outside of the waveguide it is spurious radiation. If the magnetron doesn't fire, look for a low voltage fuse or a high voltage fuse blown. The door has to be closed for the tube ti turn on. Look for door latch switches that don't make up. Look for a relay that doesn't close before the magnetron turns on. Look for a fan that doesn't turn on. So many variables. Look for them!

[Dan O.]

I say just sell it and buy a new one.

It is an older model with double ovens. They literally don't make ranges like that any longer.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site

.