dishwasher stopped working after 5-6 years

[Troy]

Posted for homrepfjkndy:

Full Model number for this kenmore undercounter dishwasher is
665.15932000,Serial NO.FK4504386.

Subject dishwasher stopped working after 5-6 : years of dependable
service.
Just decided on day to refuse to respond.No lites, codes display on the
front panel. No response when buttons touched to start/select options.
First thought power was out/fuse: blew/ plug pulled. Checked all of the
above, were OK. Removed bottom panel and checked for leaks, or signs of
motor burnout, and used current tester to verify power lines carrying
power(hot) at box(where manufacturer places warning sign). Tested wires
into electronic control(EC)and they were hot. Fuse in the EC tested with
OHM meter(w/power turned off) continuity OKand with line power tester
with power on and current flowed through the fuse. Did not/Do not know
how to test the dual digit display(Part#. If bad can this short out the
whole system? Could the problem be in the Console assembly including the
active overlay & insert?

Was able to confirm the door latch switch Could only visually check
dual
digit display which appears like new; no burn, scorch marks. Clear
sealant applied to circuits on back allows view of connections. Not
definitive but not obviously damaged either. At this point I would like
to check/confirm that the Electronic Control is bad part
(PartNO.8269187).

I've been a do-it-yourselfer for many years(66yearsold) and have done a
lot of auto work( including brakes, air conditioning, transmission
replacement, etc.). Change out memory chips in PC's and printers.
Changed out sensors/wiring in older refrigerators. Know how to respect
hazards of electricity/static discharge. Realize I'm not a professional
and know my limitations. Have a sense I'm at a point where I have
neither the knowledge or test equipment to test the suspect components
further.

I have read the "'Service technicians Use Only " sheet (part#8269194)
and can follow the schematics. Right now the power is getting to the EC
at the fuse and passes to the other side. Is there anyother testing I
could do to rule out other possible causes?


Try

[LazyPup]

On most dishwashers the first step is to fill the water. Water fill should begin immediately when the unit is set to run and the door switch is locked in place. Once the water reaches the prescribed level the water level float switch closes and energizes the time to advance to the run cycle.

Usually you will find the water level float on the lower front part of the water sump. It will look like an inverted plastic tea cup. You should be able to lift the float and examine the rod on the underside. The rod goes down through a tube in the bottom of the sump to a momentary contact switch under the sump. Check to see if the rod is gummed up with soap scum. While you have the float out, momentarily close and latch the door to see if it tries to run.

stop the machine, reset it to the start position, clean the water level float shaft and reset the float in place. Now close and latch the door. Does it try to fill water?

If not, check for voltage across the water solenoid valve. If you have voltage and the water is not filling, check the water shut off under the sink, then check the water line to the solenoid valve.

If you have water pressure to the solenoid but it is not filling when energized, unplug the machine. Turn the water off and remove the solenoid valve. There should be one screw holding the solenoid on the valve. First use you ohm meter to test for continuity through the solenoid winding. If you have continuity, remove the solenoid, then you will see a small tube that extended up through the solenoid body. There should be four screws holding that tube assembly on the valve body. Remove those 4 screws, carefully pull the tube assembly off the valve body and you will see a rubber diaphram. Carefully pull the diaphrame and chech the opening in the diaphram. It should be about the diameter of sewing needle. With the diaphram cleaned, carefully invert the tube and a metal plunger and spring will fall out. Clean the plunger, then insert the spring, the plunger, rubber disphram and reassemble the valve.

Turn the water on again and try starting the machine. It should be filling water now.

If it fills with water but does not run, again unplug the power cord and check the motor windings. Check your wiring schematic for wire colors to the motor. There should be two start windings, one for forward and one for reverse.(most dishwashers use a bi-directonal motor, one way for wash and reverse for pump out.)

You should also find a potential relay. To test a potential relay connect an ohm meter across the poles. It should read zero. Now turn the relay upside down and you should get continuity across the relay poles. Turn it rightside up again and the meter should again read zero. If so the contacts in the relay are good.

If it is accessible, try manually turning the motor armature to see if it is jammed.

If the motor armature is jammed you will have to disassemble the sump cover at the bottom of the water tub to access the pump impellar. Be very careful because there are usually bits of broken glass in the sump.

If the motor windings and pump impellar all check ok and the potential relay is okay, the problem is most likely in the timer.