Dishwasher terminology question

[seamlyne]

The project for Spring 2005 is the kitchen/dining room, so watch for questions from me - this'll be one of the most comprehensive projects I've ever undertaken.

Starting with (drumroll please): the diswasher. Right now we have a portable that we'd like to put under the counter inline with the cabinets. As I've been looking online (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) and I've seen two descriptions that aren't "portable": "under the counter" and "built-in". I would assume that the terms are interchangeable - that would make sense to me - but I'm reasonably certain that I'm wrong.

What's the distinction?

- Wm


Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[seamlyne]

Further question: my cabinets are 24" deep. I'm seeing diswashers - "built-ins" - that are 27", 25-3/4"...

What am I getting myself into?

- Wm

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[LazyPup]

Mechanically a built in and a portable are the same machine.

To make a protable they place an undercounter dishwasher in a cabinet, add a top, and put a quick release fitting on the water line.

[seamlyne]

LazyPup, you never cease to amaze me. Do you have this disk somewhere with all those drawings already done?

Okay, so I've taken my dishwasher apart. The cabinet is in the living room, the wood top is leaning on the pantry, and old hoses are snaking out the back of the thing looking for all the world like guts.

I've made a list of parts I have to buy to tie the discharge hose into the disposal, the "in" line to the hot water, and the electrical hookups under the floor. Here then, are the next questions:

The "in" valve uses what looks like a standard washing machine hose connection, so I'll have to use some creative adaptations. Besides leaks, any pitfalls to watch out for? I've been told I have to use copper because the line will be constantly under pressure.

2nd: The unit had a cement block in the back of it, I suppose to provide stability while it was on rollers. With that gone, the unit is the perfect depth for my kitchen cabinets. Since it'll be resting on the floor - I'll have to build 1" high runners to raise it just a tad - that block can go bye-bye, right?

3rd: it just slides into the space? I can't wrap my mind around that...I have this need to screw something down, but from what I've been able to see, there's just the little flanges to screw to the underside of the countertop.

Really appreciate the help!

- Wm

quote:Originally posted by LazyPup

Mechanically a built in and a portable are the same machine.

To make a protable they place an undercounter dishwasher in a cabinet, add a top, and put a quick release fitting on the water line.

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[LazyPup]

To answer your first question; No i do not have a disc with the drawings. I have been using the "Mircosoft "Paint" program, which comes prepacked on most computers under Start, accessories, Paint, making them as need arises, but i have been saving them both on my hard drive and on CD for future use.

While art was my passion while in high school and I still dable with it a bit for fun, I never really explored the potential of the Paint program until after Troy set up the forum so we could post illustrations and Hayzee posted some very nice illustrations which he too had made using paint.

Over the years I have done a lot of public education through different organizations I have participated with, and i was always looking for a good method to create illustrations, and now i think i have found one that I am becoming comfortable with.

Now, for your dishwasher. The concrete block was most likely added as a counterbalance to offset the weight when the door is open. (You may disregard it when setting the machine in as a built in)

When the dishwashers are used in the built in mode there are two small screw down levelers, one on either side just behind the kick plate below the door. When the dishwasher is installed under a cabinet it is first slid into place, then the levelers are screwed down, which jacks the front of the machine up against the underside of the cabinet.

When the machine has reached the proper elevation in that manner, two screws are installed through the small metal tabs on the top front of the machine to lock it into place in the cabinetry.

If your present water fill valve is set up to receive a hose bibb line you should be able to find a 3/8 compression x Female hose Bibb adapter at a local appliance parts store, then you can run the new water line with 3/8 roll copper tubing.

If you need the screw down levelers you can also buy them at an appliance parts store, or you can make a pair by using 5/16 water closet bolts and brass washers. Put a nut on the bolt and run it down near the head of the bolt, add a washer and pass the bolt up through the holes in the dishwasher frame. With the dishwasher in place you can turn the nuts up to elevate the machine and when you have it set in place run a second nut down on the top to lock it in place.

There are some code considerations when connecting the dishwasher drain hose.

Dishwasher drain lines MAY NOT be connected directly to the house drain lines. They are required to be connected by means of an indirect waste connection. If you have a garbage disposal the drain line must be run up as high as possible under the kitchen cabinet and secure it in place, then loop down below the disposal input and finally connect to the disposal input port. ( The idea is to create a trap so no water dischrging from the sink could backflow into the dishwasher and contaminate it.
The dishwasher input port on the top of the disposal body is classified as an indirect waste but some jurisdictions also require the air inlet valve (check your local code).

If you do not have a disposal you are required to install an air inlet valve on the countertop, then run the line from the dishwasher to the air inlet valve and a second line from the air inlet valve to the drain house drain line.

You may Tee the water supply from the sink supply. The simplest method is to replace the existing water supply angle stop with a side outlet angle stop. (It is an angle stop valve that has two discharge ports, one for the sink and the second for the dishwasher.)

[seamlyne]

quote:Originally posted by LazyPup
Dishwasher drain lines MAY NOT be connected directly to the house drain lines. They are required to be connected by means of an indirect waste connection. If you have a garbage disposal

That we do, and I've already located the dishwasher inlet on the back and bought the rubber adapter.

quote:
You may Tee the water supply from the sink supply. The simplest method is to replace the existing water supply angle stop with a side outlet angle stop. (It is an angle stop valve that has two discharge ports, one for the sink and the second for the dishwasher.)

Yeah, this one's going to suck. I found the appropriate valve, but its configuration would have made the handle impossible to turn as the water pipes are too close to the back of the cabinets. I'll have to run another stub to a new spot nearby and tie in there. Thank God I have access to everything from under the floor - the basement ceiling is unfinished. I can sweat copper, I just don't like being wet.

And to offer a note for anyone who reads this in the future: if you tilt the dishwasher from upright to get into the workings from underneath, have plenty of towels! My dishwasher, at least, retained an astonishing amount of water.

Thanks much LazyPup. Your input helped me "throw my hat over the fence" as They say.

- Wm

Measure with a micrometer
Mark with a crayon
Cut with an axe.

[LazyPup]

Here is an illustration of the correct method of attaching the dishwasher drain to the house drain.

[peteml]

We're putting in a dishwasher right now also. We had to run new electrical cables and put in new circuit breakers. We put in the garbage disposal (it works!) and are just waiting for the machine to show up. Your diagrams are great! And will be an immense help in the final steps. Thanks. I'll let you know when the dishwasher is in because we also had some size issues.

[LazyPup]

When installing the water line to the dishwasher there is another code requirement you should be aware of.

Both the International Residential Code (IRC 2903.5) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC 609.10) require a water hammer arrestor in the near proximity of all quick-close valves (Dishwasher and laundry washing machines).

Small auxillary water hammer arrestors can be purchased at hardware stores, home supply centers or plumbing supply houses, or you can field manufacture one very easily.

To field manufacture a water hammer arrestor simply install a pipe riser about 12 to 18 inches vertically with a cap on the top. When the water is turned on the air in the riser is forced upward and is trapped in the riser, which allows an air cushin to absorb the pressure shock of a quick acting valve.