Maytag Refrigerator Model #RTD2300CAL not cooling

[Elodia]

Please help. This frig is 10 years old. This frig was working fine. We moved it into another apartment and it is not cooling in either the freezer or frig compartment. I had cleaned it and vacuumed the coil before we moved it. Is there something that could have dislodged? What steps must I take to figure out the problem? What might a service call & repair parts cost if you wonderful repair wizards can't help me figure this out? Is it time to replace my Maytag? It seems it should have more years left in it.

Many thanks.

[Dan O.]

** We moved it into another apartment and it is not cooling in either the freezer or frig compartment.**

How did you move it, standing upright or on its side?

How long did you allow it to sit before plugging it back in?

** Is there something that could have dislodged? **

That certainly could be a possibility.

Is the compressor running or trying to start?? Without the compressor running, no cooling can take place.

If the compressor is not running, maybe the fridge is just in its defrost cycle which could last in the area of 30 minutes. Maybe someone turned the control(s) off but forgot to turn it back on again?? Maybe a wire was just knocked off during the move or during cleaning? Are you certain there is at least power getting to the appliance?

If the compressor is trying to run but failing to get totally going (usually resulting in clicking on and off), I suggest you disconnect power for 12-14 hours and try it again. If it doesn't start right up, unplug it again and call for service.

If the compressor IS running but the fridge is not cooling, you will likely need to call for service. Be sure to ask whether they want it still plugged in or not. In most cases they will but in some cases it could cause further damage and should be avoided.

** What might a service call & repair parts cost **

I have no idea what the service rates are in whatever area you live in nor have we determined what parts (if any) are needed. You can read about some of the costs involved in home service at the following link. To get an accurate idea of the service charge cost, you'd have to contact a *local* company and ask.

- The Cost of Home Service
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/service/servicecharge.shtml

JFYI

Dan O.

https://www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Maytag_Fridge

The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Elodia]

Hi Dan,
I've followed your steps. I unplugged the fridge for 24 hours, then plugged it in. Light & coil fan running, and condenser seems to be running. Checked after 6 hours. The fridge still seemed warm. Will check again in the morning. Is there anything else I should try? Thanks,
Elodia

[HayZee518]

with the fridge running, look to the bottom where the compressor is. feel the lines coming out of the compressor. the skinny line is the high pressure side. this should be warm or hot to the touch, the other larger line should be cool or cold - not necessarily dripping water but cool. If the temperature is the same relatively speaking, there could be a freon leak or a hole in the evaporator coil if someone tried to dislodge the ice buildup in the freezer and punctures the coil.

[LazyPup]

IN the post it was stated that this fridge had been moved recently, therefore I would begin by looking for the problems that are typical of moving.

1. Remove the machinery access cover on the lower back of the refrigerator.

2. Inspect all the wiring as best you can to determine if a connection was jostled loose during the move.

3. Check the Condenser Fan (Lower back near the compressor) and see if the fan blade can turn freely. Ofthn during a move a portion of the cardboard machinery cover, insulation or other loose material can become lodged in the fan preventing it from turning.

4. With the cover off plug the refrigerator in and visually inspect the fan motor to be sure it is running and the fan actually turning.

5. Listen to see if the compressor is running. If not, unplug the refrigerator again, then remove the compressor terminal cover and inspect the wiring connections. If all connections are tight and the compressor did not run, carefully feel the compressor housing to see if it feels hot? (Be careful here because it could be very hot)

6. If neither the fan motor or the compressor ran while the machine was plugged in locate the defrost timer and check the electrical contact plug to make sure it did not come loose during the move.

7. If the defrost timer electrical plug is tight, manually advance the timer about 1/4 turn and plug the refrigerator in again to see if it runs.

8. If both the evaporator fan (inside the freezer compartment) and the condenser fan ( bottom rear near the compressor) are funning, and the compressor is not starting, unplug the refrigerator and test the compressor start relay.

To test the start relay you will need a VOM (Volt,OHM Milliameter).

To access the compressor start relay first remove the comprssor electrical access. (It is a plastic cover on the side of the compressor where the wiring attaches to the compressor, (The cover is normally neld in place by a spring wire.)

Again, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged, not just turned off.

Once the cover is off you should see one wire attached directly to a pin extending out of the compressor. That is the White or "Common" Wire.

There will be a second wire attached to the start relay, That is the circuit "Hot" or power wire. It may be attached by either a screw terminal or a slip on "Spade connection".

The start reley is just slipped onto the pins extending out of the compressor. Carefully pull outward on the relay and it should slip right off the pins.

With the relay pulled out, carefully disconnect the power wire from the relay.

Examine the relay housing and you will see the letters R & S (Run & Start)

With the relay held in the upright position insert one probe of your meter in the "R" terminal and touch the primary electrical connection with the other probe. It should show full continuity.

Insert the probe in the "S" terminal and touch the primary connection. The meter should show zero continuity.

Continue holding the probes in place and turn the relay upside down, it should now show Full Continuity.

Repeat turning the relay right side up and upside down a few times to insure it is making contact and that the internal contacts are not sticking.

If the relay checked out ok, then connect the power wire back on the relay and plug it back onto the compressor. Replace the compressor electrica cover, then plug the refrigerator in to see if the compressor starts.

If you have not found the problem by this point, post again and I will give you information on how to electrically test the compressor.

[Elodia]

Hi HayZee518,

Both lines are about the same temp. It's a self-defrosting fridge, therefore no ice build up. Perhaps it's a defrost timer or thermostat problem. On to the next dx idea. Thanks for your help. Elodia

quote:Originally posted by HayZee518

with the fridge running, look to the bottom where the compressor is. feel the lines coming out of the compressor. the skinny line is the high pressure side. this should be warm or hot to the touch, the other larger line should be cool or cold - not necessarily dripping water but cool. If the temperature is the same relatively speaking, there could be a freon leak or a hole in the evaporator coil if someone tried to dislodge the ice buildup in the freezer and punctures the coil.

[Elodia]

Hi Lazypup,

I inspected the wiring as best I could; everything seems to be OK. The condenser fan is turning freely. The condenser seems to be running but the lines are about the same temp. I don't know how to find the defrost timer. I looked at web diagrams but find them confusing. I think I have exhausted my capabilities at this point and have placed a service call. At least I was able to explain everything I checked to the tech. Thanks for your help. Elodia

quote:Originally posted by LazyPup

IN the post it was stated that this fridge had been moved recently, therefore I would begin by looking for the problems that are typical of moving.

1. Remove the machinery access cover on the lower back of the refrigerator.

2. Inspect all the wiring as best you can to determine if a connection was jostled loose during the move.

3. Check the Condenser Fan (Lower back near the compressor) and see if the fan blade can turn freely. Ofthn during a move a portion of the cardboard machinery cover, insulation or other loose material can become lodged in the fan preventing it from turning.

4. With the cover off plug the refrigerator in and visually inspect the fan motor to be sure it is running and the fan actually turning.

5. Listen to see if the compressor is running. If not, unplug the refrigerator again, then remove the compressor terminal cover and inspect the wiring connections. If all connections are tight and the compressor did not run, carefully feel the compressor housing to see if it feels hot? (Be careful here because it could be very hot)

6. If neither the fan motor or the compressor ran while the machine was plugged in locate the defrost timer and check the electrical contact plug to make sure it did not come loose during the move.

7. If the defrost timer electrical plug is tight, manually advance the timer about 1/4 turn and plug the refrigerator in again to see if it runs.

8. If both the evaporator fan (inside the freezer compartment) and the condenser fan ( bottom rear near the compressor) are funning, and the compressor is not starting, unplug the refrigerator and test the compressor start relay.

To test the start relay you will need a VOM (Volt,OHM Milliameter).

To access the compressor start relay first remove the comprssor electrical access. (It is a plastic cover on the side of the compressor where the wiring attaches to the compressor, (The cover is normally neld in place by a spring wire.)

Again, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged, not just turned off.

Once the cover is off you should see one wire attached directly to a pin extending out of the compressor. That is the White or "Common" Wire.

There will be a second wire attached to the start relay, That is the circuit "Hot" or power wire. It may be attached by either a screw terminal or a slip on "Spade connection".

The start reley is just slipped onto the pins extending out of the compressor. Carefully pull outward on the relay and it should slip right off the pins.

With the relay pulled out, carefully disconnect the power wire from the relay.

Examine the relay housing and you will see the letters R & S (Run & Start)

With the relay held in the upright position insert one probe of your meter in the "R" terminal and touch the primary electrical connection with the other probe. It should show full continuity.

Insert the probe in the "S" terminal and touch the primary connection. The meter should show zero continuity.

Continue holding the probes in place and turn the relay upside down, it should now show Full Continuity.

Repeat turning the relay right side up and upside down a few times to insure it is making contact and that the internal contacts are not sticking.

If the relay checked out ok, then connect the power wire back on the relay and plug it back onto the compressor. Replace the compressor electrica cover, then plug the refrigerator in to see if the compressor starts.

If you have not found the problem by this point, post again and I will give you information on how to electrically test the compressor.

[LazyPup]

If the condenser fan or compressor is running the defrost timer is currenty in the refrigeration mode so we are assured it is not stuck in the defrost cycle.

You had stated that the problem occurred after moving the fridge. Hopefully it was not laid on its side during transport.

When any AC or refigeration equipment is laid on its side there is an extemely high risk of oil leaking out of the compressor, into the condenser and on to the filter drier or capillary tubes. This is especially problamatic on many newer model refrigerators because some no longer have a separate filter drier, but rather a final pass in the condenser has a dessicant material in it.

If the oil gets into the dessicant in the driers or in the capillary tubes it can totally obstruct that component. While changing a filter drier is not a difficult job it would require the services of a trained technician. Cleaning a capillary tube is another problem altogether. In order to clean capillary tubes the technician would need a special capillary tube cleaning tool and currently not one in 100 service techs would even have one.

[Elodia]

Hi LazyPup,

It was not laid on its side. The guys carried it straight up. Given that the fridge has been running for 24+ hours, something is wrong. The coil fan is running, but both the fridge and freezer are warm; too warm to make ice cubes (I know the water line is connected correctly). As I said both, tubes coming out of the compressor seem about the temp. My new fridge's compressor is so quiet, that now I'm having trouble figuring out if the compressor on the old fridge is working. I'm a little nervous about opening up the compressor cover (it's slightly warm). I can't figure out how to get to the defrost timer to check that. Given that I don't have a voltage meter at the present time, it seems it is worth the $60 to have a tech figure this out. Thanks, Elodia

quote:Originally posted by LazyPup

If the condenser fan or compressor is running the defrost timer is currenty in the refrigeration mode so we are assured it is not stuck in the defrost cycle.

You had stated that the problem occurred after moving the fridge. Hopefully it was not laid on its side during transport.

When any AC or refigeration equipment is laid on its side there is an extemely high risk of oil leaking out of the compressor, into the condenser and on to the filter drier or capillary tubes. This is especially problamatic on many newer model refrigerators because some no longer have a separate filter drier, but rather a final pass in the condenser has a dessicant material in it.

If the oil gets into the dessicant in the driers or in the capillary tubes it can totally obstruct that component. While changing a filter drier is not a difficult job it would require the services of a trained technician. Cleaning a capillary tube is another problem altogether. In order to clean capillary tubes the technician would need a special capillary tube cleaning tool and currently not one in 100 service techs would even have one.

[LazyPup]

Here is an afterthought, when you have the refrigerator running, is the cardboard service cover properly secured in place? If not, that may be your problem. Not only does that cover protect the machinery, it is a critical element to duct the air from the condenser fan over the condenser coils. If the cover is missing the air blows directly out the back and the condenser coils overheat rendering the system ineffective.

[Dan O.]

** Both lines are about the same temp. **

Someone is going to have to inspect the evaporator (cooling) coil in the freezer compartment after (or during) running of the compressor. If the compressor IS running but there is not a *uniform* frost pattern across the *whole* evaporator coil, either the compressor is damaged, refrigerant has leaked out or there is a restriction in the refrigeration system. Any of those conditions would need a professional to repair.

BTW. I didn't see an answer to this question: How long did you allow it to sit before plugging it back in?

If it was plugged in immediately, a restriction in the refrigeration system is a fairly likely result.

JFYI

Dan O.

https://www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Maytag_Fridge

The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Elodia]

Hi Dan, LazyPup, & HayZee,

The tech came out. The condenser is not cooling. Whether a line cracked during the moving or whatever, there appears to be a loss of freon and he said the condenser costs $500.00 to replace. Time to buy a new fridge for that money (ouch). Any suggestions regarding a basic model with icemaker, around 22 cubic feet in size, with a low repair record? Thank you for all your help. I learned a lot. Elodia

[LazyPup]

I am hesitant to say "All" because someone will find one to prove me wrong, but for the most part almost all the refrigerators in the 22cu.ft range will either have an ice maker or they are factory wired for a simple DIY installation of one.

Based on my experience in servicing refrigerators I would choose GE, Sears Coldspot or Whirlpool.

I would also stear away from the high tech digital control systems. The more complex you make a machine the more future problems you may have to deal with. Fundamentally a refrigerator only requires two contol components, thermostat and defrost timer. The rule of thunb here is "Keep it simple". They have used basically the same analog thermostats and defrost timers for decades, and they have a very good service record. When you then replace that with fragile digital electronic circuits you introduce potential problems.

Some years ago I drove truck and hauled new refrigeratoss out of the Whirlpool plant at Findly, Ohio and in the process I learned a suprising fact. i knew that Sears Coldspot was built by Whirlpool, but what i didnt know was that when they run a production run for sears, sears sends their own quality control team to the plant to supervise the run. The guys at the plant told me that in many areas sears had a much higher quality standard and often machines that failed a minor point on the sears inspection re-inspected on the whirlpool spec and most of them passed and were shipped as Whirlpool products.

It was also common to get a mixed load, both sears and whirlpool that was being sent out to a distribution center somewhere. In many cases they would pack about ten extras in plain boxes with an accessory pack. The reasoning was that the machines could be field changed to either Whirlpool or Sears to meet local demands by adding the cosmetic trim and necessary decals.

While both the sears and whirlpool are fine products I would not get the extended warranties. In most cases if a product has a production defect it will show up within the first 30 to 90 days, which is covered under the normal warranty period.

Statistically if a refrigerator survives the first 6 months without a problem you can expect the first service call to be 5 to 7 years, therefore in many cases the 2 or 3 year extended warranties are not necessary.

[Elodia]

Thanks for your advice LazyPup. You are a sweetheart. Off to Sears I go. Elodia