GE 'fridge is not working...

[mrcaptainbob]

Well, almost. At least the light turns on. GE GSS25JFMCWW, serial FD244841.
We had a power failure today. Many things got fried. Along with several tv's, microwave, etc. we found the 'fridge is also not working. We now have it uplugged. Is it possible it will 'reset' itself? What might I do to diagnose where the issue is? Should I just get a new board? How might I check the compressor to verify it's still working? Today was not a good day.

[Dan O.]

** GE GSS25JFMCWW **

That is one of GE's newer electronically controlled refrigerator models.

** We now have it unplugged. Is it possible it will 'reset' itself? **

On electronically controlled appliance models sometimes unplugging them for 1-2 minutes will 'reboot' the control's software.

The compressor will also have an overload protector. If the compressor overheated or drew too much current, it might trip and shut the compressor off but eventually reset in 5-10 minutes to allow the compressor to try to run again.

** How might I check the compressor to verify it's still working? **

Are any of the fridge's fans running? If the control was telling the compressor to run, those fans should be running too. The compressor should never be running without those fans running at the same time.

** Should I just get a new board? **

About the only time I would suggest someone just replace the board without any kind of testing would be if there were visible signs of failure (burnt components, burnt circuit traces, etc.) on the board itself.

LINK > GSS25JFMCWW Main Control Board Asm.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge update....

Left the 'fridge unplugged overnight. Plugged it back in this morn and it's still not running. No fans, no motor. Only the lights work. Will roll it out Friday eve and check for any abberations such as the 'tracking' as you suggest, Dan O. While I'm in there, is there a way to verify the compressor working? Suppose there's no obvious signs? Are there key points on a circuit board to check? What might a board for something like this run? A couple hundred bucks? Would like to verify compressor integrity before investing in board.

[HayZee518]

bob take a ride to home depot or lowes and invest a cupla bucks in an ideal clamp around ammeter. this way if you should ever need to measure amps, the clamp around will give you this. some even have a resistance range switch on them.

[Dan O.]

see link

** is there a way to verify the compressor working? **

If it were running it should have at least some vibration to it. Power to it might also be able to be checked to see if it even should be running or not.

** Would like to verify compressor integrity before investing in board. **

Even if the compressor was bad, the fans should still be running if the fridge was calling for cooling. Just a problem in the compressor wouldn't affect them so it is my guess that it is likely the control not powering either.

** Suppose there's no obvious signs? Are there key points on a circuit board to check? **

If there are they may be described in the unit's 'tech sheet' which should accompany the fridge's wiring diagram.

** What might a board for something like this run? **

It's actually not too pricey at the moment (considering what other appliance electronic controls go for)

LINK > GSS25JFMCWW Main Control Board Asm.

(I thought I supplied a link to that component previously?)

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

It may be just the board!

Well, by the looks of it so far, it appears it is the board. Some brown liquid oozed from the panel when removed. There are two cans who's tops are crowned and where it appears the ooz is coming from. I'll now order that and hope the compressor's not shot.

[Dan O.]

Is that actually a picture of the board on your fridge?? I noticed it's dated February of 2005 and doesn't' show any visible problems although not actually a close up.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

'Fridge board.

Yes, Dan O, that's the 'fridge board as it sets on the back. I'll try tomoorw to get a closeup of the two cans (they're the largest and almost centered top to bottom) that are leaking. They're about the size of C batteries. Also took this opportunity to dink around with that ice maker door solenoid. The plunger had some corrosion on it. Sure wish they'd use stainless screws and such in places that have moisture and condesation. It's pitiful to see the rusty screws inside that area. I'd be willing to chuck a few extra dollars for a handleful of these when tossing a grand for an appliance.
Anyway, I'm about to order parts here, so, thanks again for the help.

[HayZee518]

you see the tops of those capacitors? see how they're bulged? they are definitely leaking their dielectric. those aluminum cans bulge when they overload when they develop an anode to cathode short. some have criss cross crosshatch pattern on them so they actually blow outward because of internal pressure. if you can make out the values replace them from radio shack. make sure the rating in microfarads are the same. you can use those with the same or higher operating voltage.

[mrcaptainbob]

Radio Shack info....

Ha! NOW ya tells me! Well, HayZee, as good an idea as that is ( I do like experimenting), Wife wants it done a lot sooner than that. But, I just may go ahead and try that anyway and try swapping the boards back at a future time, like maybe AFTER the holidays! I'm not that good at electronic stuff, but that seems easy enough to do. AM wondering, though, would those cans be the items that keep power from everything else? Again, the only thing working is the inside light. Are those cans like fuses/transformers? Would hate to do that and find it just leads to the next weak link....although...we ARE just experimenting from this point on...

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge IS working...

Well, almost. THe new board is working quite nicely. THe refridgerator side and the freezer side are at their proper temps now. THe only part not working is the darn icemaker. Well, it's off to that appliance parts site for more parts! My wife is quite pleased now.
I looked closer at the old board and found quite a few issues. THe soldered-in-place fuse is burned beyond recognition and there's a round flat dark blue 'item' that has it's side blown out. Not an electronic person, so I don't know the nomenclature.
THanks for all the help.
And....Merry Christmas!

[HayZee518]

round flat blue thingie is a thyristor.

[Dan O.]

THe new board is working quite nicely. My wife is quite pleased now.

Glad to heat it.

THe only part not working is the darn icemaker.

What exactly isn't working about it? If it is just not filling, will it freeze and harvest cubes if you manually fill the ice mould with water?

Well, it's off to that appliance parts site for more parts!

With the icemaker used in those electronic GE fridge models, there are no repair parts available for it separately. If there is any problem in the actual icemaker itself, the whole icemaker will have to be replaced.

LINK > GE GSS25JFMCWW Replacement Icemaker Asm.

If needed, it is however also available in a 'kit' which is sometimes actually cheaper than just the icemaker itself.

LINK > GE Refrigerator Icemaker Kit

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[mrcaptainbob]

Icemaker..

Removed the icemaker. Found there's also a circuit board in there and it too has one of those neat thyristors. (Thanks, HayZee.) THere's a bit of carbon tracking on it and is obviously wasted. I presume that this board can NOT be separately purchased? Strange that the main board is available but not this. Any way out on this, Dan O?

[Dan O.]

No way out

** I presume that this board can NOT be separately purchased? **

Nope. Unfortunately GE doesn't make any of that icemaker's parts available separately.

** Strange that the main board is available but not this. **

Not really. Not being able to get a circuit board for a $1000 appliance resulting in having to scrap it is a little different in scale than not being able to get one for a $100 icemaker and just having to replace it instead. But I really don't know GE's thinking behind the decision.

** Any way out on this **

If you can find the actual problem(s) with the board and repair it, you might get away with that. Otherwise, if the problem is in the icemaker the whole icemaker is likely going to have to be replaced.

If you're going after the hydro or insurance about the damages due to the power outage, add it to their bill?

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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