Sears Kenmore Fridge not cold

[HeadnSouth]

Hey guys just came across this forum while trying to do a DIY on my fridge. Looks like a great place for info. Anyways here's my problem.

Got a Kenmore 106.59599992 that would not cool the other day. Figured out it was the defrost timer (482493). In the process of trying to diagnose the problem I found that if I turned the timer the compressor would start. Bingo! Thats has to be the problem. Picked up a timer the next day and before I could install it the fridge is warm again. Swapped out the old for new and still the compressor won't start even after cyling the timer. Through out all this the evap fan has worked.

Now what? Is it the adaptive defrost control or the starter relay on the compressor?
Thanks,
luckely (I guess) its cold enough here in Ga. to put the food on the deck in coolers.
The fridge is about 7 yrs old.

[Dan O.]

Is it the adaptive defrost control or the starter relay on the compressor?

Since you said installed a timer in place of the original adaptive defrost control your fridge no longer has one. But basically, all either type of defrost control does is provide power the defrost system (see the following link) or to all parts of the cooling system (fans, compressor, etc.) at once. If any of those are functioning during the cooling mode, the control is likely doing what it is suppose to.

LINK > How does a frost free refrigerator's defrost system work?

As long as power is getting to the compressor, it should be running. If it IS getting power but NOT running, a problem in the compressor's starting relay, overload protector or the compressor itself could all be possibilities.

If the relay on the compressor is white in color, there have been numerous problems with them since their introduction and might be most suspect. That original relay type is now replaced with a different type which comes in a kit with a new overload protector as well (see the following link).

LINK > Kenmore 106.59599992 Replacement Relay/Overload Protector

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

Actually I did not remove the adaptive defrost my fridge has both. Even tho the schematic only shows the adaptive control and not the timer. Unless this was replaced the last time it was serviced but I don't recall it. Only the cap. relay on the comp was replaced. it now has a 3n1 starter rc0410. Maybe thats the culprit.

[HeadnSouth]

Replaced the 3 in 1 starter and the compressor is now running.
I know I saved a bunch of cash doing it myself. Last time the starter was replaced I got nailed for about $200.

Parts this time $42
Time about an hour
Doing it yourself priceless

Thanks for your help Dan.

[Dan O.]

** my fridge has both [a timer and an adaptive defrost control].

It shouldn't, they both do exactly the same job although one by electronic means, the other mechanical. There should only be one or the other. Were there any wires attached to the electronic control??

** Replaced the 3 in 1 starter and the compressor is now running. **

You mean you installed a universal '3 in 1' starting device in place of the original relay and overload or was one already on it??

If you replaced the original relay (which is not an RCO410) you might want to keep an eye on it as many modern compressor designs will not function properly using that type of starting device... for long. Use of such a device can damage newer design compressors which would then require an expensive repair ($$$+) to correct.

If you replaced a universal relay/overload which was already on the fridge, keep your fingers crossed. I will for you.

Good luck!

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

#1 thats the way I understood the function of the defrost timers why I have 2 it didn't make any sense to me when I saw what I had and what it showed in the schematic.
Both are mounted and connected in the upper control panel. If the electronic defrost is installed without the timer type the fridge should run, no? This weekend I'll pull the timer type and see what happens.

#2 The repairman that came out to fix the fridge a year or so ago replaced the relay with the 3 in 1. I'm going to look into the orignal relay part. The fridge is about 7 yrs old is that considered modern design?
Thanks for the great info.

[Dan O.]

** Both are mounted and connected in the upper control panel. **

There is an electronic control board on your model but for the water filter indicator light. Maybe you're confusing it with an adaptive defrost control??


** The fridge is about 7 yrs old is that considered modern design? **

Its compressor could be. I can most easily tell by a description of the original compressor relay but since it is no longer present...


** repairman that came out to fix the fridge a year or so ago replaced the relay with the 3 in 1. **

Ok. And it has failed again.

Those 3 in 1 relays should only be used as a last ditch effort to keep a failed appliance out of the land fill. Most other times the factory specified parts should be used whenever possible. I would suggest you try the recommended replacement relay because you really don't want to take a chance of damaging the compressor. It would also likely be nice for it to function without needing repairs for more than a year?

LINK > Kenmore 106.59599992 Replacement Relay/Overload Protector

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

I'll take another look but I could have sworn I do have both, the reason I say that is the board looks just like the one they show in the schematic/parts layout.
The original relay is still in place and from a brief look I'd say its 1 1/2" x 1" black box with x terminals coming out o the top of it only now theres nothing connected to it.

I will defintley get the correct part. Thanks again.

[HeadnSouth]

Dan,
I took another look at the fridge and you are correct the other c board is for the water filter, the parts diagram that came with the fridge shows the adapter defrost control as a c board and not the timer type.

The compressor relay you posted is what I need to replace. I'm guessing the repairman took the cheaper way out without caring about the life of my unit. He'll certainly never get my business again.

Once again thanks Dan.

Pete

[Dan O.]

The original relay is still in place

The relay and overload mount directly onto the compressor terminals. If it was still in place, there should be no way to connect a 3 in 1 relay to the compressor.

I'm guessing the repairman took the cheaper way out without caring about the life of my unit.

Or ignorant of the fact that those devices can damage newer compressor designs. Both are reasons why I usually recommend calling a *factory authorized* service depot for the original product manufacturer.

LINK > Home Service: Technician Pros and Cons

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

Well then I'm not sure whats mounted behind the compressor.

From what it shows in the schematic theres a #13 4387835 Overload (service compressor only) and #16 Start-Device, Combination (start relay and overload) for production compressor only) Capacitor
Where and how these were connected I have no idea.

[Dan O.]

ON the compressor

I'm not sure whats mounted behind the compressor.

Not behind (usually), right where whatever wires now attach onto the compressor would be where the original type relay and overload would be mounted. (There are no wires between the original relay/overload and the compressor, they actually push right onto the terminals on the compressor itself.)

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

OK, here's what I've got the 2nd picture was installed just behind and to the left of the comp. You can't see from the pic but the 3in 1 is connected directly to the comp. Found out that its a capacitor Whirlpool Part Number 999509
From what I can see it look like I'll be needing Start-Device, Combination (start relay and overload) for production compressor only)
or will the link you posted Kenmore 106.59599992 Replacement Relay/Overload Protector
do both?

[Dan O.]

the 2nd picture was installed just behind and to the left of the comp. Found out that its a capacitor

Yes. It will have to be reconnected to the new relay once installed.

it looks like I'll be needing Start-Device, Combination (start relay and overload)

Yes, that is what I linked to previously. It contains both items.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HeadnSouth]

DanO,
Picked up part #4387835 but I'm not sure which connections go where and theres no wiring diagram on the fridge or manual.

Can you tell me which wire goes where? I can make up some short jumpers with sta-kons for the connections that were cut off to install the 3 in 1.

I've got the Overload (white) single connection that goes on the comp and then to ?
the Starter device (black) with 3 sta-kon blades that goes on the comp and then to ?

What gets connected to the relay and to which terminal (does it matter) and where do the hot and neutral connect?

Thanks,
Pete