Range/Oven installation

[nighthawk75]

We recently bought a new home with a 100amp federal pacific circuit breaker. The house had a propane stove but nothing else on propane so we wanted to go with an electric range.

We installed a new 50 amp circuit in the panel and ran a 55 amp (6 gauge) wire into it, we connected the range using a 3 wire permanent connection. We plugged in the oven and the clock, lights, and everything came on as expected. The problem is that the oven and burners will not get hot. We returned the stove and got a new one and it does not work either so we are left to think it is a wiring problem.

We have double checked the wiring and everything seems to be connected fine. So I thought maybe someone here would be able to point us in the right direction of where to look for the problem. We are suspecting that maybe it is the 100 amp circuit breaker? Perhaps we have to upgrade to 200 before we can use an electric range?

[mrcaptainbob]

Sounds like something's not done right. First, I'm surprised that you could fit a fifty amp breaker in a hundred amp panel. That would sure dilute what's left for the rest of the house. I would've thought a minimum of adding a dedicated secondary panel with it's own breaker for the stove. Then wired to an appropriate outlet near the stove. Then a proper pigtail from the stove to plug into that outlet.

[jackofall]

Well a few things come to mind.....
1. Only the range was a gas product?
2. 100 amp seems a bit small for complete house with H2O heater, dryer, Hvac. These things are usually gas when panels is that small (not saying can't be done, just a little small)
3. A range only requires a 30 amp breaker unless specified on the range itself. Look for a max breaker for the unit. The wire is fine, no need to change this, it will carry the load for a 30 amp range. A little big but since you already have it ran, don't waste the time & $ to replace, the big issue here is the breaker. If something goes wrong with the range and wants more than 30amps the breaker will trip, saving your range where a 50amp breaker would keep giving more power and damage the range or even start a fire.
4. Are you saying that you hardwired the range or you are using a 3-prong plug for the connection. When using a 3-prong plug you need to connect the ground & nuetral connections on the range itself together for the proper wiring (2x look at the owners manual it should show you how to do this).

[nighthawk75]

Only the range was propane, the broiler is fuel oil. We do have electric for the H20 heater, washer and dryer. This house was bought from the original owners who built it 82 years ago, they just never upgraded anything.

We put in the 50 amp breaker, connected to the wire which runs up to the pigtail which the stove is plugged into. We do not have it wired to another outlet. The 3-prong plug is connected to the stove via the instructions.

The guy at lowes said we would be safer using the 55 amp wire/50 amp circuit. He said anything lower and we were opening ourselves up for a fire. The guy who actually connected everything is an electrician, only he says it can't be the wiring that is the problem. We know the range works as Lowes tested it for us, so they said the only thing that it could be is that it wasn't getting enough juice to heat. We were just trying to pinpoint what may be the cause of that since it runs directly from the breaker to the stove...

[kactuskid]

Are you in the US or in Canada. The reason I ask is first due to you having a Federal Pacific panel and new breakers are no longer made in the US for these panels. You may have purchased an aftermarket breaker or an older used one then. As for these panels, I'm gonna attach a link for you to read regarding these panels, there has been alot of trouble, especially with the 240volt breakers, being a fire hazzard. http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm

You say you ran 6 gauge wie and that it has a 3 wire connetion. If this is in fact only 3 wires and no ground wire is also in this wireing then this is not wired per code. In 1996 ,the code mandated that all newly installed range circuits could no longer depend on the circuit NEUTRAL to also serve as the equipment ground,and must be supplied via 4 wires .HOT-HOT-NEUTRAL-GRND.This requires a 4 slot receptacle.

CODE:Ranges are typically ran from a 2 pole 50 amp breaker as a 4wire ..[L-L-N-EGC]..6AWG copper circuit to a 4wire 14-50R receptacle..and the neutral conductor is kept separate and insulated from the appliance grounded frame.This assumes 60ºC terminations..."4 -ELEVEN BOX.

Be certain to install a 4 wire range circuit and 3 pole 4 wire grounding receptacle 14-50R ,and a 4wire 50amp range cord.

Verify that the NEUTRAL is not bonded to either the receptacle box or the range frame

If you do have a 3 wire line run then the guy at Lowe's gave you very bad information and it must be replaced with a 4 wire circuit and a 4 prong cord on the back of the range.

I'm also guessing that your new breaker, that should be a double pole breaker rated for 240volts, is not making contact on both supply buss bars and is only contacting one bar, that's the reason for not getting the heating elements to work. Try moving the breaker to a different location in the panel.

[jackofall]

BRAINFART ---- MAJOR ---- BRAINFART

My bad 40amp not 30amp for a range!!! Sorry I agree with what kactuskid has posted about the way the wiring is done. In Phoenix we (I guess) can get by with a 40amp breaker with 8/3 copper wire. That is what I reran when I moved my kitchen around & my range works just fine.

[irregularjoe]

Electric ranges require 50 amp 220/110 volt. Not 30 Amp. Not 40 amp.

quote:Originally posted by jackofall

BRAINFART ---- MAJOR ---- BRAINFART

My bad 40amp not 30amp for a range!!! Sorry I agree with what kactuskid has posted about the way the wiring is done. In Phoenix we (I guess) can get by with a 40amp breaker with 8/3 copper wire. That is what I reran when I moved my kitchen around & my range works just fine.

Did you ever see OHM'S mother in LAW?...... SHOCKING!

[dev 65]

Most ranges are 50 amp, however I recently bought a whirlpool ceramic top stove and it is rated for 40 Amps. Welcome to the 21st century.



It also sounds to me that it is a breaker problem.

[jackofall]

Yes I did make a mistake about the 30amp breaker for a range "YES THAT IS WRONG AGAIN I'M SORRY ABOUT BAD INFO ON MY PART" Like I said about the 40amp breaker (which may differ from the code book) is allowed day in, day out in Phoenix, My own stove is only on a 40amp breaker without any problems. To get a final answer to what breaker is required look at the back of your stove, it will tell you the min/max breaker size required for your stove.

[volts]

With the range fully on, did you measure the voltage at the receptacle? If it's low, there is a high resistance connection either at receptacle or at CB panel. Check the voltage into and out of the breaker. Also, in situation as this one, range operating, a faulty connection will run warm or dangerously hot, if bad enough.

[nighthawk75]

We have tested the 6 gauge wire coming from the circuit breaker and it is easily pulling 40 amps. From we followed the range instruction booklet which had the instructions for a 3-wire permanent connection and also a 4-wire permanent connection.

We will try the 4-wire connection with a 4 prong and let you know.

Thanks to all who provided advice, it is very appriciated.