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  • CAREFULLY repairing light wiring

    HI gang, I'm hoping for a little guidance here. If anyone knows of a forum as good as this one please pass it along.
    Having passed our one year anniversary of buying our first home and learning of the Farmer John style of rewiring the kitchen and garage (my apologies to actual farmers named John) I'm having to address some potentially dangeous issues. Last one I addressed was a covered up oven wall socket that had loose/broken connections in the wall. With this in mind I'm wanting to attack another issue with elecrical. In the garage the primary lighting is from a wall switch to a single incandescent fixture mounted to one of the rafters above the washer and dryer.
    Click image for larger version

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    This fixture had been tapped into (loose again) to operate a T12 fixture above the workbench in the back of the garage. Upon first moving in the fluorescent tubes (F96's) would occasionally flutter off. I replaced them with fresh tubes that I use at my office, but upon replacing them they failed to light. Suspecting a ballast issue (as at my work this is one of the usual suspects) I held off on this repair until I got on top of my oven issue.
    So, yesterday I purchased a standoff voltage probe and began tracing wires with load and finding the corresponding breaker I killed the power and took apart the smaller fixture and found that there were four wires (two white, two black) that had been crammed into the hold fasts in the cap.
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    It looked as though the primary wiring (in place) had been curved into a hook pattern and was wrapped around the bottom of these with a wire and stay holding the wire in place. The tap was loosely crammed into these tabs and only the black tap was secure. After I removed this panel the whole works of the spring wire and tab fell from the fixture.
    So my questions are is this fixture repairable? Is there a safe way to run a tap into this fixture? or should I get a box to make a junction for the lighting wiring in this space. (seems logical to me, but I'm no one's electrician save for automotive).
    Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid for any help on this.

  • #2
    lighting

    this type of fixture is called a keyless receptacle.
    "Farmer Brown or John" or whatever should have used a 4 inch octagon nail on box to splice and/or hold the cables. Connections to the fixture itself should have been with screws.
    What you have is a quick-wire fixture which I don't trust and as you found out, the wires pull out or fall out.
    Get the right fixture [screw terminals] and a box and do things correctly.

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    • #3
      Ahh thanks HayZee, I lift my lynch lid off to you!

      Over the years I've seen screw terminals in DC automotive as well as AC Home/Office and this one had me baffled. I'm going to run down to the local hardware store and get a screw terminal box.

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      • #4
        Well got a new screw terminal type fixture for $1.95 and 30' of Romex, going to have at it again tonight after work.

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        • #5
          Ceiling fixture

          Here's a diagram that shows a ceiling bracket nail-on. It could be metal or plastic and how to wire a porcelain keyless receptacleClick image for larger version

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          • #6
            WOW! That's downright groovy! Thanks so much for the specific diagram!

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            • #7
              Well to gain access to the contacts I had to partially disassemble the fixture that covers the ballast. I noticed that the ground wire to the fixture was wrapped around one of the screws that mounts the fixture to one of the rafters and that there was no paint scratched or wire brushed off at that contact point. I suspect that this was my issue with the intermittant failure of this fluorescent fixture. Now that its disconnected from power and I decided to move the works to a more advantageous location I'm going to wire brush to bare metal where that ground wire is connected. What led me to this conclusion is I recently addressed some grounding issues on my old Jeep CJ where many grounding elements are grounded to the body rather than back the the battery.

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              • #8
                ground wire

                the bare ground wire is just there in case the ballast windings burn up and the wires "ground out" to the case. It prevents the metal parts of the fixture from being charged to line potential of 120 volts.
                In which case the circuit breaker would open up and shut off power to that circuit.
                In the automotive case, it is normal to have the negative wire of the battery connected to a frame ground, partly for convenience as a means of "referencing" to ground. and produce a return path for the dc current.
                Some florescent fixtures have a green ground screw for the bare ground, that is tapped into a hole in the shell. Its intimate connection is through the threads in the metal shell. wrapping a ground around a fastening screw does the same but the ratio of bare to bare metal is limited unless you scrape off the paint.
                The operation of your fixture doesn't rely on that ground wire.
                If it don't work it could be the tubes or the ballast.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for that insight. SHe's got new tubes and I have spare ballast. After I relocate that fixture and reconnect for testing then I'll know.

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                  • #10
                    Well I broke down and got a replacement electronic ballast (Advance ICN-2P60-SC) that according to Pro lighting.com is the replacement for my old one (Advance Magnetic SM-2E75-S-TP). I wired in the new incandescent fixture and tested it and it works fine. Ran new cable to the fluorescent fixture and wired the new ballast as per the instructions of the case and....nothing, nichts, nada. I verified I had power to the fixture and after disconnecting the cable verified continuity to the tube sockets and all checked out. Tonight I'll take some photos and post but having double checked my wiring and relpaced numerous F40T12 and two F96T12 ballasts over the years in my office, I'm at a loss as to what could be the trouble.

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                    • #11
                      ballast

                      I went to the Advance site and in their PDF diagram extrapolated this diagram.
                      A single tube fixture uses the blue and red along with the 120 volt [white-black] wires
                      A two tube fixture uses the extra blue with a jumper to the red.
                      One tube, cap off the extra blue wire.Click image for larger version

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                      • #12
                        Wow Hayzee,
                        Didn't know it'd be different than the retro fits on double F96's I've done before. Thanks for this diagram!

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                        • #13
                          Well, let there be light. Went by your diagram (from Advance) Hayzee and it's workin' the diagram on the ballast itself was in I'd say 1 pt. font and hard for me to read despite my new bifocals. Again, I suppose I'm just too used to retro fitting ballast that I normally purchase from Hab for Humanity that is of the same period and design when it comes to wire color code. I'm going to be more cafeful in the future.

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