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TRying to control voltage on an uncapping knife

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  • TRying to control voltage on an uncapping knife

    This is a post on my facebook page but i know I can get an answer here quicker! I bought this uncapping knife for removing the wax caps on frames of honey before extraction. I bought it ion AMAZON . It came from China. you plug it in and it is useless as an uncapping knife above 120 degrees or so.....this thing went to 260+ on low... POS.

    Here goes:


















    It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

  • #2
    the dimmer is meant to dim lamps, incandescent loads. it takes sinous waveforms and converts them into square wave dc.
    your uncapper is an inductive load therefore uneffective with square wave.
    it would be more effective if it was using a variac transformer.
    a variac is also called an auto-transformer. input power is 120vac with a variable output to 130 vac.

    your dimmer has a power rating of up to 300 watts. that is the max load it will handle. it doesn't mean it will provide 300 watts
    Last edited by HayZee518; 09-11-2015, 11:54 PM.

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    • #3
      so probably something riculously expensive like a RHEOSTAT we used in a laboratory?
      It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

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      • #4
        The more I look around the more ideas I come up with. This uncapping knife is a flat soldering iron more or less.

        So I could buy or make a soldering iron controller: $10ish DIY Variable Temp Soldering Iron Controller

        or buy:

        http://www.amazon.com/THE-RAG-COMPAN...words=rheostat
        It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

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        • #5
          I guess you could use something off AMAZON but I'd go more towards something off an electronics supplier. I buy lots of stuff off ALLELECTRONICS dot com. I bought a variac from them to test low voltage spark systems for clothes dryers. I needed 24 volts ac to operate the sparker. This foot the bill. I also used it to vary the speed of several floor fans in the house. Worked great! If you could find a TRIAC and circuitry that would use a variable trigger point you could do what you wanted.

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          • #6
            OH SURE!!! I'll get right on this!! LOL

            TRIAC

            From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


            For the green vehicle, see Triac (car). For triiodothyroacetic acid, see Tiratricol.

            TRIAC schematic symbol

            TRIAC, from triode for alternating current, is a genericized tradename for an electronic component that can conduct current in either direction when it is triggered (turned on), and is formally called a bidirectional triode thyristor or bilateral triode thyristor.
            TRIACs are a subset of thyristors and are closely related to silicon controlled rectifiers (SCR). However, unlike SCRs, which are unidirectional devices (that is, they can conduct current only in one direction), TRIACs are bidirectional and so allow current in either direction. Another difference from SCRs is that TRIAC current can be enabled by either a positive or negative current applied to its gate electrode, whereas SCRs can be triggered only by positive current into the gate. To create a triggering current, a positive or negative voltage has to be applied to the gate with respect to the MT1 terminal (otherwise known as A1).
            Once triggered, the device continues to conduct until the current drops below a certain threshold called the holding current.
            The bidirectionality makes TRIACs very convenient switches for alternating-current (AC) circuits, also allowing them to control very large power flows with milliampere-scale gate currents. In addition, applying a trigger pulse at a controlled phase angle in an AC cycle allows control of the percentage of current that flows through the TRIAC to the load (phase control), which is commonly used, for example, in controlling the speed of low-power induction motors, in dimming lamps, and in controlling AC heating resistors.

            It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

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            • #7
              Make or buy a soldering iron control station.

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              • #8
                i think i would love to make one. i finally heard back from the merchant and this thing is 170watts uncapping knife....without bigtime understanding of electonics it would a harder to use triacs and rheostats beyond using simple components........like a particular diimmer switch.....so, i think like you said, even using a 600watt dimmer switch, the auto transformer, cost effective one, is what i should be looking for...to make, essentially a soldering iron controller???? the website you suggested is great!!!! still looking ! thanks
                It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

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                • #9
                  jeez, don't you ever sleep? I'll trash around and look for something then post it here.
                  maybe I can find a simple circuit.

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                  • #10
                    if you don't mind 63 bucks, here's what I found:
                    Item # Dial-Temp, Dial-Temp Soldering Iron Controller On M.M. Newman Corp.

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                    • #11
                      MAn I have been searching all over and time and time again I come across a DIY controller made with a 600watt dimmer switch....I already bought all this stuff but wanted to get checked off here first...a few days ago.....

                      the DIY route again brought me here: Atelier de Poupée: 07 Carving Wax Nº 00

                      I found another youtube video where the guy had a auto-controller, triacs , switches, led lights, temp readout and the knowledge to solder on boards...man I can only dream to do any of that -that would be so cool!!!! but alas I am a mere mortal....just a man... LOL! So I will try this DIY route as soon as we get back.I am only in about $12 right now..thanks man!!!!
                      It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

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                      • #12
                        How about this Router Speed Control

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                        • #13
                          I saw that thing about using the dimmer. The instructions say to plug in a fan to provide a motor load, then plug in your device to control, so in effect you're controlling two items at the same time. But listen to me, the motor has windings that are influenced by the 60 cycle waveform. The dimmer chops off part of the waveform so in effect its a dc wave. your iron is inductance or a coil with resistance. Try it, if it works good for you.

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