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Kaktus, maybe you can steer me the right direction on this. I have that subpanel located about a hundred feet from the house and was about to set down some bucks for a cut off switch. I described what setup I had to the man serving the elctrical deptartment at the local box store and he said it wasn't really necessary unless I plan to do more work in there to shut it off. I was under the impression that a cut-off switch was supposed to be withtin a few feet of any sub-panel. What's the straight skinny? Also, I understand (now) that the neutral and ground are separate at the sub. Here's my dilemma: The 30A/220V three prong receptical that I installed has continuity between the 'neutral' (that has a green screw, by the way) and the hold-down frame of the plug body. That effectively ties that neutral to ground at the sub! What do I do about that?
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This is HayZee not Kactus - the feeder for the sub the neutral and bare equipment ground is tied together at the main panel. They are seperate at the sub because as the code says to eliminate parallell grounds. I'm assuming that the 30 amp receptacle you have at the sub is for a welder. The cord cap and receptacle form what is called the disconnecting means for the portable equipment. If this was a permanent fixture then a disconnect would be in order, but why spend extra when you can just use a breaker at the sub. The continuity you are reading between the yoke and ground is coming from that long run of the neutral and bare at the main panel and back.
The way the protection thingie works is main breaker is protecting the in-feed from the street. A 50-60 amp breaker is protecting the line from the panel to the sub. A 30 at the sub is protecting the line to your welder. All 15s and 20s are protecting the branch cicuits out of your sub panel to lights and receptacles. -
Thanks, HayZee. You guys are too good. Sure appreciate the guidance. Will continue on my path, then.Comment
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