Can I run a 125 amp main service panel with a 200 amp meter socket. I currently have a 125 amp box with a 100 amp main braker in it which I will upgrade to a 125 amp main breaker. I have run #2 alluminum from the service panel and will connect it to the new meter socket. If I install a new 200 amp meter socket, will I be overloading the service panel. I want a 200 amp meter because i don't want to have to buy a new meter socket if I decide to upgrade from a 125 to a 200 amp service panel in the future. Also, can I just install the new 200 amp meter socket next to the 100 amp socket that is there right now. From what I understand, the power company is responsible for the wires coming from the street to the meter, so won't they move those wires from the old 100 amp to the new 200 amp meter socket?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
ugrading from 100 amp to 200 amp service
Collapse
Forum Top GA Ad Widget
Collapse
X
-
Why do you want to make the increase in service in steps? Just go for the 200 amp service and be done with it. A 125 amp service requires 1/0 aluminum, 200 amp is 4/0 aluminum. The power co is responsible for the wires that go from the pole to the house hook - Everything else you own. The riser, the socket, the in between socket to panelbox wires, ground etc. Furthermore the inspector will not approve installation of another meter socket next to one that's already there. Code says that a dwelling used for a residence shall be fed by ONE set of service connections.
-
The residence used to be a duplex, so it currently has two 100 amp meter socket's there, but only one was on, and the power company pulled that meter because of a code violation(not sure what, but i think it was the line going from the meter to the service panel, it was in bad shape). I bought a 200 amp meter socket panel with 6 circuits that I am going to use. So basically, what you are saying is that I am responsible for removing the two old meter sockets, and then hooking the new 200 amp meter socket to the service drop wires?
Comment
-
ok, what the electrician will do (if you hire one) is 1) remove the existing service and panel, 2) install the new socket, riser and new panelbox, 3) transfer existing circuits into new panel, 4) drive an aux ground rod, 5) hitch up water pipe ground and bond ground rod and waterpipe together at the panelbox, 6) install a jumper around the water meter, 7) temporarily hitch up the new service, 8) call for an inspection.
you can install everything yourself if you feel confident about it - but you can't hitch it up to the hot wires up top until it's inspected. Then once it's inspected you can and tear off the old stuff. Maybe just install the equipment get it inspected and then spend half a day transferring circuits to the new panel.
Comment
-
I don't want a new service panel. The 200 amp meter socket I bought has a 6 circuit panel with it. My plan is to take the old 100 amp breaker from the existing service panel and put it in the 200 amp panel and connect that circuit breaker to the #2 aluminum going to the existing service panel. That way I don't have to replace the 100 amp service panel and if I want to add central heat and air, or other high wattage appliances, in the future I can just add a circuit breaker to the 200 amp panel. Seems like this will save me money since I was able to get the meter socket panel for around $70.
What is the jumper at the water meter? I've never heard of that.
By the way, thanks for all your replies, you've been very helpful.
Comment
-
ALL THE WAY and slightly underground. #2 aluminum is good for ONLY 100 amps no more!
What you have is a combined meter-panel - with six 1 inch spaces - correct? If you intend to upgrade to 200 amps - your cable's got to be changed to 4/0-3 SEU Aluminum. Your existing riser going to the street conductors is too small!
Comment
-
To answer your question about the water meter bonding jumper I am attaching a photo of a water meter and pressure reducing valve with the required electrical bond.
Note the bare copper wire attached behind the main shutoff valve on the right side and connected to the copper pipe on the left side of the meter.
The purpose of that wire is to insure a continuous ground in the event it is necessary to remove the meter or reducing valve for servicing.
Comment
-
If you can't drive a ground rod vertically then you have the option of burying it laterally. Because of ledge or a lot of rock, you can bury the ground rod laterally in a trench 36 inches deep. You can also try driving it in at an angle - full length.
Comment
Comment