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There is a large grounding wire connected to the city side of my water meter. I was told it would be a good idea to install a jumper around the water meter so the pipes in the house would be grounded. Is it safe to do this myself, and if so what sort of wire and clamps are appropriate? Thanks for any help!
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Yes, a bonding jumper across your water meter is not only a good idea but is required if you have copper piping or galvanized piping. Here's a link to an excellent picture supplied by LazyPup, it'll show the jumper. Another link will show how to install it using the correct size grounding clamps.
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Thanks!Comment
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Check the attached photo and you will see a bare copper bonding wire attached to the water line behind the main shutoff valve and the other end it attached to the copper pipe on the house side of the water meter.
The electrical code permits the water pipe to be used as a ground if a minimum of 10 feet of the pipe is in direct contact with the earth.
In years past when all water lines were installed with galvanized iron pipe the water pipe was commonly used to make the house electrical ground, However, many new plumbing codes now require all underground piping to be either plastic pipe or factory wrapped pipe to prevent any direct contact with the earth. The intent of the plumbing code is to minimize electrolosys corrosion on the piping system.
To insure safety all houses should be equiped with a driven electrical grounding rod, and both the electrical and plumbing systems should be bonded to both the plumbing pipe and the driven rod.
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Meter Type?
Do you know what type of meter that is? I try to keep up on the different types that are in use.Comment
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WW, are you aware this thread is well over 4-1/2 years old?
Luckily Pup is on quite often so maybe he'll see this. You might want to try to PM him.Comment
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If you are asking the specific manufacturer or brand name for that meter I haven't got a clue because water meters are owned, installed and maintained by the municipal water service provider therefore I have never had need to pay attention to the brand name of the meters.
When we apply for a Plumbing Permit for new construction the municipality will give us a "Water Meter Fitting Allowance" and they will specify whether we must terminate our lines with a MIP (Male iron Pipe) thread, an FIP (Female Iron Pipe) thread or "Meter Couplings".
We then install the lines leaving an open space where the meter will be located equal to the length of the fitting allowance and we terminate the ends of the pipe with the appropriate thread or fittings. Once the water distribution pipes have been installed and inspected we then call the municipal supplier for final connection, at which time they will install the meter and turn the water supply on at the street side 'Curb Stop", which is an underground valve accessible through a standpipe that has a cap on top that is embossed with the word 'Water".
When discussing a water service entrance setup I like to use that photo because with the white plastic background it is easy to see all the components, however it must be noted that there are a couple minor code changes since that photo was made.
MAIN WATER SHUTOFF VALVE- The valve in the photo is a globe valve, however the codes no longer permit globe valves, we must use a 'Full Bore" valve, which would be a gate valve or ball valve.
ELECTRICAL BONDING WIRE- When the water line from the street to the structure is a metal line we were formerly required to in stall the electrical bonding wire in the manner shown in the photo, however code now requires all Galvanized Iron Pipe (GIP) used for water service must be factory wrapped and all joints must be field wrapped therefore there is no direct contact with earth to afford a ground. In addition, most water service line installation or replacements are installed with PE roll pipe (polyethylene pipe), PVC Pipe, CPVC pipe or PEX tubing and therefore would not provide any electrical earth ground. Code still requires that we install the bonding wire as shown, but we must also install a bonding wire from the meter location and tied into the house Electrical Service Ground connection, which is connected to a driven ground rod.
PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE- At any location where the incoming water pressure exceeds or is likely to exceed 85psi we are required to install a Pressure Reducing Valve. (If your pressure is less than 85psi you will not have a PRV)
SEDIMENT SCREEN- Code requires that whenever a PRV is installed we must have a user serviceable "Sediment Screen" on the upstream side of the PRV. As is common to most PRV's. the required sediment screen in this photo is an integral part of the PRV, however care must be taken to insure the screen is installed on the upstream side.. (Generally there is an arrow embossed on the body of the PRV showing the direction of flow.)
Digital Sending Unit- The water meter in the photo is a conventional Analog meter that has the little dials under the clear plastic top to show usage, however this meter is also fitted with a digital sending unit. With a common analog meter the meter readers had to enter the structure every month to read the meters, however with the inclusion of the digital sending unit a wire can then be run to the exterior of the structure where they mount a digital magnetic coupling device so the meter reader only needs to come to the exterior of the home and touch his/her handheld meter reading device and the reading is transferred automatically. There is also a variation of this device that can be attached to the house telephone line and the water service provider can remotely read the meter by means of a computer thus negating the need of meter readers.Comment
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