Electric Range Wiring

[vtandctob]

Okay,

I have a 1947 GE Kitchen Unit. Basically it is an entire kitchen built by GE back in the 40's / 50's. It is an all metal, cabinates, counter tops etc. and has it's own sub pannal. Kind of an all in one kitchen appliance would be way to put it.

Now to my problem.

I am replacing the stove. The unit is set up to take a standard size electric or gas range with a few modifications. The top of the stove has to be removed as the Kitchen Unit is one solid peice of stainless steel and acts as the top of the stove. ( no problem there) Where the problem comes in is that the controls had to be moved and put into the existing unit, and of course the wires on the stove were not long enough to reach the existing location so I had to rewire. The clock on the origional unit is much smaller than the one on the new stove so i can not fit the new clock into old unit.

So when I rewired the stove I left out the clock and now neither the broiler nor the bake elements work. I have checked both elements and they are in working condition. When the stove is set to bake I have power getting to the element. I assumed it was a grounding problem and tried several different grounding locations and still nothing.

My question is, could the lack of the clock be causeing this problem? Or do you have any other ideas?

Thanks,

[LazyPup]

You attempt to ground the elements is the main problem. Oven bake and broil heating elements require 240v service. Connecting power to one side of the element and grounding the other side will only supply 120v.

Before you begin, locate your wiring diagram and follow it explicitly.

Examine your main power connection and you will see three terminals (maybe 4). The terminals should be marked L1, L2, C and possibly G.

L1 and L2 are two separate 120v feeders.
C = circuit common.
G = Ground.

Normally on the internal wiring of a Range or stove:
L1 is run with a RED wire.
L2 is run with a Black wire.
C is run with a white wire
G is a bare copper, Green or yellow with green stripe.

L1, (the RED wire) runs from L1 on the main terminal block to the BAKE/Broil selector switch L1 terminal. (There may be a high limit switch in series on this wire.)

A RED wire is then run from the "Bake) terminal to the thermostat. From the opposite terminal on the thermostat another RED wire runs to one terminal on the lower heating element.

A RED wire is run from the Bake/broil switch Broil terminal to one terminal on the upper heating element.

A black wire is run from the L2 terminal on the main power terminal block to the second terminal on the lower element and on to the second terminal on the upper element.

I have prepared an illustration of the basic wiring of a bake/broil circuit, This is only for a basic illustration and does not supercede the wiring diagram for your range.

[kactuskid]

You mentioned that the wires weren't long enough so you had to rewire. What does that mean? Did you run an entire new cable from the electrical panel to the new stove location or did you splice a cable onto the old one.

It is not allowed by code to extend a 3 conductor range circuit, an entire new 3 conductor plus ground cable is required to be run. You should also check what the amperage requirements of your new range are, they may be different than the old one which would require higher gauge wire and a larger breaker.

[LazyPup]

In keeping with what Kactuskid stated, i would like to add that the wires inside the range should not be spliced either. All internal wiring in the range and oven should be made with continuous lengths of Appliance wire that is rated for high temp appliance applications.

Absolutely do not use common residential wire such as THHN or THWN as its insulation is not rated for high temp service.