In an effort to remove painted over wallpaper over really crumbly plater walls, we ended up drywalling. The original outlets are in the baseboards, which will be replacing. My question is, I would love to move these up onto the wall. Can I attach wire to the existing wire using wire nuts and electrical tape so I have about another foot to move these up onto the wall? Is this a major undertaking or something sort of simple (with basic electrical knowledge)?
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It may be difficult now with the drywall up, mainly cause the thickness of the wall now may be wider than the arm spread on an old work box. You may need to cut the drywall out around the area you want to install the old work box into, install the old work box and then patch around the box with joint compound, once dry you can then install a box extender to bring the face of the box out flush with the drywall surface. Here's a couple of links that'll show you how to install an old work box in a plaster and lathe wall and how to connect the receptacles.
Here's a link to show you the box extenders you'll need.
If you want to install a 3prong receptacle then you'll also need to verify a ground exist in the existing receptacle box and then extend a ground between the metal box and the new box you install. Here's a link that'll show how to test for a ground in your existing box.
Be aware that if you decide to move these receptacles up the wall from the current ones installed in the baseboard. The box that is in the baseboard that this splice is made in must ALWAYS remain accessible, meaning a cover plate can be installed over the box to hide the inside of it, but you CAN NOT cover this box with a piece of baseboard to hide it in the wall. It must always remain accessible.
You should also get your self a good book on electrical household wiring. The Black and Decker book to Homewiring is an excellent resource with lots of pictures and diagrams to teach you the basics.
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Kactus, I should have typed DECIDED to drywall. It's not up, YET... and I figure if we are going to do it, NOW would be the time.... I will review your post carefully, and see if it's something I can handle with my limited electrical knowledge... Thanks a TON.
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quote:Actually, What I need to know is more about the WIRING than the box it self. Do I need to run a whole new line to the box, or can I somehow attach an extra foot with wire nuts and tape?
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Look at the breaker for this circuit, it will have a amperage value on the handle. It will say either 15 or 20. If you have fuses, the fuse will have a number on it also.
You can use that same procedure for switches and lights also, just remember, the origianl junction box that has a splice made in it must always remain accessible.
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Wonderful. Sorry about the dumb questions. We have a wall, which we are removing to open up a staircase, and OF COURSE, thats where the light switch is.
So, I am totally on the page. I get that you have to have access to the "splice", but just for the sake of curiosity, can I ask WHY? Not arguing, just wondering....
Thanks AGAIN.
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Don't be afraid of asking questions, how the heck else are you supposed to know? Anyhow, first off it's a code that all junction box's must remain accessible at all times. The reason for this is cause splices are a point of connection and can come loose. If the j-box is covered over and a connection comes loose then it is nearly impossible to find the fault without ripping down the walls. Hope this helps.
If your switch is wired up in a switch loop fashion, meaning the power comes into the circuit through the light fixture and then a switch loop is run to the switch, then you can disconnect the cable that leads to the switch at both the switch and at the light. Then run a new cable between the light and to a switch in a more desirable location. This way you could cover up the old switch box permanatly. Here's a link that'll show you how a switch loop is connected. If this is what you have then you can move the switch if you desire.
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