New service line...

[mrcaptainbob]

That may not be the correct nomenclature. The supply from meter to panel MUST be changed....and soon. The conduit runs from the meter and is generously bent to enter the 20" stone basement wall. It protrudes into the basement about 10", 8 of which was chisel split and splayed open. Recently the lights throughout the house started dimming and I found one of the lines is arcing to that pipe. I have all the supplies to replace from meter to panel. I have looked at the neat sketches provided in our forum, but am left with a question concerning the ground wire. Since I'm using the gray PVC, how is the stranded ground wire run? Shall the path be to connect from the meter box through the conduit (with the two 120's) and to the main ground bus in the panel? Then what about the ground line to the ground rods? Does that then get run through a panel knockout, outside the conduit and through the wall, and attached to the two ground rods?

[HayZee518]

First of all, why did anybody bend a piece of conduit to penetrate the foundation? Entrances in conduit usually use pipe, an entrance "ell" maybe an LB or a combination of the two to enter the rear of the panelbox, the side of the panel, or top of the panel. OK since you are using PVC for your run, you need two hots and a ground. the two hots go on the two outer terminals and the ground on the center lugs. 100 Amp service is #2 aluminum, 200 amp is 4/0 aluminum. The ground doesn't have to be bare just painted white at each end. Your equipment grounds terminate at the main panel through a knockout and connector. Driven grounds go here as well as the water meter line ground.

[LazyPup]

A WORD OF CAUTION HERE

Working in a meter enclosure is extremely dangerous. Even when the meter is pulled the primary lugs in the meter mount remain hot and there are no breakers or fuses between you and the transformer on the pole.

In my jurisdiction no one but a licensed electrician may work on service entrance equipment.

[Snoonyb]

It sounds as if you are using your existing distribution panel.
The "stranded" conductor connects to the "neutral" buss bar in the distribution panel.
Your ground cable connects to the bottom or lower lug of the neutral buss bar, through a "bond bushing" located in a knock-out of the panel.
In some jurisdictions, the first stop for the ground is the cold water line or the fuel gas line. At this connection a driven ground rod, the metallic line and the ground cable are bonded together with an approved connector. When there is a second driven rod is employed, its located a distance greater than 6' from the other driven rod.

[mrcaptainbob]

Service line ...

What I referred to as 'conduit' may have been incorrect. It looks like water pipe and was bent using the typical water pipe bender. It's maybe 1 1/4"...It comes from the meter height above grade about 4', then makes it's curve through the stone wall. THe wall is about 20" thick and the pipe extends into the basement side about another 10" or so. THe wires exit that splayed open pipe and then go to the beaker panel. The ground from the panel is connected to a section of galvanized taht was driven into the basement ground before the floor was poured. This is in the original part of the house that's about 145 years old. I've been here only the last four. Much has been updated , some of it's on the shaky side. Since one of the hots is arcing to that bare neutral and the metal pipe coming from the meter, I feel it's prudent to change it out asap. It's all copper wire by the way. Also, there's no waterline per se, as we're on well water and that's a plastic line. The only gas line is the propane from the 500 G tank to the furnace and dryer and I don't think it a good idea to tie the ground to that. What I want is all new from meter to circuit panel, with up-to-date quality in both, material and application. Thanks VERY much for the help, guidance and cautions on this latest project..

[Snoonyb]

What I referred to as 'conduit' may have been incorrect. It looks like water pipe and was bent using the typical water pipe bender. It's maybe 1 1/4"...It comes from the meter height above grade about 4', then makes it's curve through the stone wall. THe wall is about 20" thick and the pipe extends into the basement side about another 10" or so.

There exist today rigid pipe for use in the service entrance, however, fittings are used as transitioning methods.
This was common and will be further displayed if you open some walls. It was a part of the evolution and is closely associated with Knob-n-Tube.

[/QUOTE]The ground from the panel is connected to a section of galvanized taht was driven into the basement ground before the floor was poured.[/QUOTE]

Another commonality, for the time.
Grounding has evolved to where you can presently use, (and its local adopted code sensitive), a metallic water line (with 20' soil immersion), a metallic fuel gas line with the same immersion, metallic air-conditioning ducting, a
20' length of re-bar encased in the poured concrete foundation and driven copper clad electrodes.

[/QUOTE]The only gas line is the propane from the 500 G tank to the furnace and dryer and I don't think it a good idea to tie the ground to that.[/QUOTE]

Agreed. I always find another method, because, even though it is written, I don't know the writer.

[/QUOTE]What I want is all new from meter to circuit panel, with up-to-date quality in both, material and application...[/QUOTE]

Then you'd do well to upgrade your load center, it will have a separate or isolated ground buss bar.

[Speedy Petey]

Just a little clarification on grounding electrodes.

If there is a metallic water pipe entering the house, with at least ten feet of metallic line in contact with the ground outside, you MUST use this as your primary electrode. The connection must be made within 5' of where the pipe enters the house. You must also bond around any meters, and/or plastic filters, etc, that can break the continuity of the metallic pipe. This wire is sized according to NEC table 250.66.
A supplemental electrode MUST be installed when using a water pipe electrode.

If there is nonmetallic pipe entering the house, such as with a well, you simply need to connect a water bond wire to it at any accessible point on a cold pipe. This is not considered a grounding electrode.
In this case it is typical to install two 8' ground rods at least 6' apart. For a connection to just a ground rod(s) a #6cu is all that is required regardless of service size.

A concrete encased electrode is typically used in new homes/additions where footings are being poured.

A metallic gas line is expressly forbidden to be used as a grounding electrode. A gas line does have to be bonded, but this is done via the circuit ground feeding a gas appliance. It is rare for a local amendment to require an external bond wire.

This is all in NEC 250.52 & 53

[mrcaptainbob]

Electric info...

Thanks, Petey...the two ground rods is what's there now as all other options don't exist. Great info. THanks for all the help on this. All is running very smooth now and no more flickering lights! or sparking!!