Wiring with switch and receptacle

[ojaiguy]

Heh, yeah, I was just headed out to re-visit this cause it's getting cold and I by the time I get home from work, it's dark and I've been out of town these last few weekends.

Anyway, it doesn't sound that hard but I also don't want to electrocute myself If I can't get this on my own soon, I'll probably end up having to call someone in to get it taken care of but I'd naturally like to learn how to do this on my own (plus save the money).

So please stick with me if I have more annoying questions

Thanks again guys,

Carlos

[HayZee518]

Try this Carlos

The following diagram shows two single pole breakers with a snap over tie bar. The other side shows the bottom side of two breakers. One has an elongated slot that snaps over the bus stab, the other one has a metal rejection clip. That one will only fit special panels that have a V shaped cut out in the bus stab.

[ojaiguy]

Ok, it looks like the box manufacturer is Crouse Hinds. I shut off the other breaker and put a wire nut on it and pulled the two together. You were right, HayZee, there is a tie bar binding the two together. I just took a couple photos:

http://tinyurl.com/y9ebxy (close up of Crouse Hinds name)
http://tinyurl.com/y8b6mk (the two breakers)
http://tinyurl.com/y2ftky (the tie bar)

I'll head off to Home Depot (I hope they have this type of thing) tonight and see if I can find a replacement.

Thanks again

[ojaiguy]

The following diagram shows two single pole breakers with a snap over tie bar. The other side shows the bottom side of two breakers. One has an elongated slot that snaps over the bus stab, the other one has a metal rejection clip. That one will only fit special panels that have a V shaped cut out in the bus stab.

Ah, I guess I misunderstood the tie bar definition as after looking at your diagram, that's not what this one has (as you can see in http://tinyurl.com/y8b6mk ). So is it possible to reset this breaker by removing the clips (as seen in http://tinyurl.com/y2ftky ) and doing something to it or is it just blown and needs to be replaced?

Thanks again guys!

[HayZee518]

that rejection metal clip is part of the breaker it cannot be removed. doing so will destroy the breaker. When you get a replacement breaker, GE, Crouse-Hinds, Challenger, Westinghouse, Arrow-Hart will all fit that Crouse Hinds panel, check to see if there is a hole going through the breaker handle. once you install the breaker in the panel, you can take a piece of #10 and pass it through the holes in the handles effectively tying them together. re-connect up your original wires. - one per breaker.

[ojaiguy]

that rejection metal clip is part of the breaker it cannot be removed. doing so will destroy the breaker. When you get a replacement breaker, GE, Crouse-Hinds, Challenger, Westinghouse, Arrow-Hart will all fit that Crouse Hinds panel, check to see if there is a hole going through the breaker handle. once you install the breaker in the panel, you can take a piece of #10 and pass it through the holes in the handles effectively tying them together. re-connect up your original wires. - one per breaker.

Ok, will do! I'm headed off to Home Depot right now so hopefully they'll have a replacement.

Then I'll have to get back up in the attic and try to avoid what I did which blew the breaker in the first place :-/

Thanks again!

[ojaiguy]

Arg! I bought a GE breaker and was having a hell of a time getting it in. I pulled it out and noticed this little metal tab on the bottom that I apparently hadn't seen when I was at Home Depot but it's not allowing the breaker to pop back in properly. Can I just break it off? (I'm guessing it's there for a reason and the answer to that question is no).

Here's a photo:

http://tinyurl.com/t7hsj

Time to hit the sack.

Thanks,

Carlos

[ojaiguy]

I figured it probably wouldn't be a good idea so I asked the wife to return it for a Challenger. Hopefully that'll slide in no problem when I get home.

[HayZee518]

like I SAID ABOUT THREE POSTINGS BEFORE - DO NOT TRY TO BREAK IT OFF - IT WILL DESTROY THE BREAKER! I did notice a lot or rust on your breaker rivets. this is an indication that condensation or moisture is weeping down the SEU cable. So besides having a brealer that is tripping you also have a slight water problem. Duct seal should be applied to the cable at the compression connector on your service entrance where it goes into the meter socket.

[ojaiguy]

like I SAID ABOUT THREE POSTINGS BEFORE - DO NOT TRY TO BREAK IT OFF - IT WILL DESTROY THE BREAKER! I did notice a lot or rust on your breaker rivets. this is an indication that condensation or moisture is weeping down the SEU cable. So besides having a brealer that is tripping you also have a slight water problem. Duct seal should be applied to the cable at the compression connector on your service entrance where it goes into the meter socket.

Long story short, nothing was broken off, a Challenger was purchased in place of the GE but it won't fit due to the clips on either side of the breaker which look like they dovetail with other Challenger breakers when in place side by side. ARG!

Anyway, I had one in my hand that I am pretty sure will fit but chose to go with a name I recognized (the one I didn't get was made by Murray). They were less expensive and you hadn't mentioned their name so I questioned the quality.

I'll check on the cable at the compression connector and apply some duct seal. We're only ~10 min from the ocean so a lot of things around here tend to get rust on them.

Thanks