Isolating Existing circuit

[HayZee518]

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[vdotmatrix]

I think the thing that isn't connecting for me is why in there a 2-wire and a 3-wire going to the hall lite switch?

[BBurger]

I think the thing that isn't connecting for me is why in there a 2-wire and a 3-wire going to the hall lite switch?

On your diagram, the 3-wire brings the hot and neutral from the hall light to the hall switch on the black & white wires, and returns the switched hot to power the hall light on the red wire. The 2-wire cable takes the hot and neutral by themselves to the bathroom switch.

At the bathroom switch box, the 2-wire (old wiring) brings power from the hall switch to the 2 devices in that box. They appear to be a double-switch (vanity, fan) and a device with 1 switch (heater) and 1 receptacle. The incoming hot is connected to the double-switch (fan, vanity) and jumpered to the other device (heater, receptacle).

The 3-wire in the bathroom takes the hot (black) and neutral to the vanity, while also taking the switched hot along (red) to power the vanity.

The 2 cables you label UF (probably romex rather than UF) contain the neutrals and switched hots running to the heater and fan.

At the vanity the 3-wire brings in the hot (black), neutral and switched hot (red). The red powers the vanity and stops there, while the hot and neutral leave on 2 cables taking power elsewhere. (You need to determine where these 2 cables go from the vanity.)

Note that you can no longer use the old device that has a receptacle on it in the bathroom since bathroom receps must be gfci-protected and on a 20A bathroom circuit. If there is a non-gfci receptacle included in the vanity, you should disconnect it.

[vdotmatrix]

YES.

This explains the current circuit.

With my understanding at this point, when I remove the bathroom wiring, I will join the "old wiring" together in a j-box in the attic with out regard to the red since it isn't switching that light any longer (should I pig tail the reds and the blacks 2-wire + 3-wires?).

The 2 wires leaving the vanity box, now that I think about it and will confirm this later this morning is the continuing branch to the terminating bedroom and the other goes straight up to power the attic light, which at the time years ago terminated in a light socket with a pull chain and since, a previous owner had spliced into it that and added an outside light,attic fan and light switch for the attic light, but that doesn't concern us.

I am running 2 12/2 20A circuits according to my electrical permit, one to supply the heater in the fan/ light unit, the other to supply the 20ACFGI outlet, vanity light, fan/light overhead.

Bburger,any chance this is Biff Burger, a 60's burger chain in the south?

Thanks

v.

[vdotmatrix]

I went back up in the attic after shutting off the breaker to this part of the house just now and to recap:

3-wire comes from hall box to control the hall lite and continues to bathroom box as

2-wire; 3-wire leaves bathroom box headed to vanity box to control vanity lite.

2)-2-wire branches split off, one to the attic lite and the other I assume to power the entire baby's room.

BUT THEN A TWIST OF ASSUMPTION AND A SHOCKING EXPERIENCE NARROWLY AVERTED occured!

SO! I am ready to predict that inside the baby's room light switch, I should find a 2-wire and a 3-wire as we saw in the hall way switch box.....I am feeling all smug and electrical and all!!!

I take the switch cover off and grab the dimmer light switch from the box to look under her skirt and look. To my disappointment there is only a 2-wire feeding this switch. I scratch my head and start to replace the switch and cover plate when my hand flicks the switch to the "ON" position and the overhead light comes on......I nearly shit! The circuit was live... dumbass!

So this room has a separate circuit for the ceiling light. GO FIGURE!

The 2 wall sockets are OFF and are a part of the supply coming from the vanity box- I assume cuz it is OFF.....

The branch off the hall lite box feeds the ENTIRE back bedroom sockets and lights.

So, not too consistent for the wiring scheme back in 1956.

I could have had a real jolt this morning and not from my STARBUCKS....

CONCLUSION:
I think I can run a section of 14/2 DOWN the wall to the hall switch and replace the section of 14/2 going to the bath switch box and splice into the 3-wire coming from the bathroom and going to the vanity box inside of a j-box thus isolating this EXERCISE in electrical forensics.

VERY COOL! If you guys agree with this synopsis I'll proceed !

[HayZee518]

so, your work is cut out for you - isolate the whole bathroom from any connections with the hall and yer set. then refeed your bathroom with 12/2 as you had planned. remember to use a gfci for the outlet, a two wire receptacle will not do!