This ol' house....

[mrcaptainbob]

The downstairs bath had a bad shower 'pan' leak apparently over many years. (We're new to the place as of 18 months ago.) It was at first thought to be just a trap drip. The stall floor was tile on grout on cement on plywood on plywood on subloor planks. All must be replaced from the joists on up. An since it backs up to the kitchen wall, the boards at that point need tending, also. Must've been 600#'s of tile and cement board in that small stall shower. Some of the floor joists are setting on a 10" x 10" header that spans the basement stairs. It's near an outside wall and I suspect that's where the carpenter ants must've been coming in. Apparently a long time ago. about 1/3 of the beam is gone. There's a double layer of brick also setting on that wall, as it used to be the original house exterior. The plan is to temporarily jackpost an I-beam under the joists and replace the header in that area. Also plan to permanently add an I-beam in the stairway span and set it on channel iron to encapsulate the walls on either side of the entryway. Then the plan is to remove and replace any rotted floor joists at the first floor level. Once I have that secured, I can then move to the carpenter ant abused bottom plate for the second floor that's directly overhead of all that basement header area. Removing that old exterior brick will lighten the load by at least a ton, as the wall there is about an 8 x 10 area. Not a pleasant experience. Here's my question...(finally!) how should I temporarily remove and add length to, the electrical that goes through these joists, and the plumbing that goes just beneath them? I'm posting this here, because it's mostly flooring work.....
This is the first stages of my trying to catch up to Troy on the fine job he did. Jacque is still sayin' I'm a year behind on my promise to her of a new bath room.....!

[Troy]

Sorry to get you in trouble. My project was much simpler than that!

Try

[LazyPup]

for the water supply lines the answer is easy,,, go back to a point behind where you need to work and make up some Pex jumpers and run em temporary.

Drain, waste & vent pipe will be another matter altogether.

[HayZee518]

For the electrical two options: Either cut the wire and place an outlet there and continue your run, or place a junction box that'll be accessible and continue your run.

[mrcaptainbob]

I was thinking along thew lines of PEX jumpers, too. There is a fortunate thing in one respect, LazyPup, that the septic is on the south side as are the upstairs/downstairs lavs. There's a drywell on the north side that the kitchen, laundry and downstairs lav's sink and shower drain to. The separation will be a bit easy. The crain plumbing on that needs some attention, too and will be straightened out per what I've learned from the many posts here about the angles and such. By the way. is it MANDATORY to start a drain run with small and progress to a larger diameter as another bowl is added per the codes, or is it okay to just start with the diameter you'd end up with and just use that right from the start?
Electrically I was planning to position junction boxes at every wire going through the joists, then just adding an extra length that'll temporarily lay on the floor back to the breaker. Cut out the old, unthread it, then use the new stuff back through new holes in new joists. Okay to do this?
The basement walls are min 20" thick rock. The perimeter beams are notched 10" x 10" to accept notched ends of 8/4 x 16/4. Again, several of these must be 'revised'. How do I go about removing three of them that have maybe 33% from the end that's dry rotted &/or carpenter ant ruined? Removeing that portion of nasty and setting two new 2 x 8's on one side and sister it> Or, one on either side to sister it? I'm thinking of sliding the new ones over the stone, and then raising it near the far wall. I won't be able to set it on both walls. SO I get maximum contact. Nailing or bolting the sisters? Will do either. Want the better. There would be at least a ten foot contact between the old and new. Using 18 footers in a 20 foot span is what it ends up like.
Troy, I'm glad that you or nobody else is saddled with the project 'extensions' as what this is presenting me!. Remodeling that bath would be a lark, if it weren't for the extras! I appreciate the knowledge, the help, and the good humor that you and so many others have exhibited. Thanks for always sharing....

[LazyPup]

The proper sizing of drain lines can be a very complex problem to work out, which really requires access to a series of tables in the plumbing code but there are some basics.

1. A drain line must either remain the same size or progressively get larger in the direction of flow. Under no circumstances may a line diameter be reduced.
2. The minimum diameter of a line permitted under slab is 3"
3, The main vent must run from the main drain out through the roof undiminished in size.
4. A watercloset (toilet) MUST BE on the end of the run. It may not be located downstream of another fixture.
5. A trap may be no greater than one nominal trade size larger than th e drain it serves.
6. A waste arm may be no greater than one nominal trade size larger than the trap.
7. Bathroom Lav requires a 1 1/4inch trap.
8. Not more than one fixture may be attached to a 1 1/4" waste arm.
9. Kitchen sink, Tub, tub/shower combination requires a 1 1/2" waste arm.
10. a shower stall or laundry standpipe requres a 2" waste arm.

Horizontal drain lines 2 1/2" or less require a 1/4"/ft pitch
Horizontal lines 3" or greater require a 1/8"/ft pitch

The code defines a demand unit called a DFU (Drainage Fixture unit) to each fixture on the drainage system. You begin by locating all the drains on the floor plan and noting the required DFU for each fixture.

Example.
Bath lav 1 DFU
Tub/shower 2DFU
Bidet 1 DFU
Shower stall 2 DFU
Water closet (>1.6gal/flush) 4 DFU
Water closet (<1.6 gal/flush) 3DFU
Bathroom group..(WC, Lav, Tub/shower) 7 DFU
Kitchen sink 2 DFU
wahing machine 2 DFU
Laundry tub 2 DFU
Laundry group (washing machine & Tub combo) 3 DFU

Each drain line is then sized per the tables to carry the desired DFU load for that section of the layout. i.E:

1 1/4" line 1 DFU
1 1/2" line 3 DFU
2" line.....6 DFU
2 1/2" line 12 DFU
3" Line 20 DFU
4" line....160 DFU

The required location of auxillary vents is determined by the length of the waste arms.