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Dang. Now I can't find the stupid model number OR the schematic! Here's the deal....a few days ago we had a power failure. Followed by a spike. The window unit (actually mounted in the wall..) now does not work. I checked it's fuse...it's okay. The problem is the circuit board is $260.00. Almost the cost of a new unit, and would be a desirable way to go if I can't find another unit with the right dimensions to fill this wall hole! But the real problem is that the board is no longer available! So...I'm now looking into repairing this board. Would the first thing past the fuse be a likely suspect? I believe it's a transformer....
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Window A/C..
insurance says we can not work or try to repair electronic boards. They ether work or we have to replace them. I good electronics man could check out theOriginally posted by mrcaptainbob View Post
board and repair it. but he is not suppose to, because he would be held responsible if something happened. Paul -
here's the thing about transformers. even though the output is isolated because of two separate windings, what ever the primary sees, the secondary is gonna see the same thing but at either a higher or lower voltage. a voltage spike will fry whatever is connected to the secondary side. electronics boards are finicky.Comment
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Window a/c...
So the board is possibly fried. But...the unit was not running, merely plugged in when this power issue happened. Not sure just how this kind of stuff works. The hot lead comes in to a typical Buss fuse, then to this transformer, then to, what I suspect, the part of the system that allows either remote on/off or unit on/off. Is this correct? The transformer is a step down? Is there a way I can check that transformer for proper out put?
And Paul, the issue of insurance that you mentioned....is it because of a possibility of the board catching on fire or something like that? Sure sounds like a strange issue...Comment
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Yeah, no harm in testing. Power most likely goes through a on - off switch. a lightning strike or spike can arc over within a switch. after the switch, power must go through a rectifier circuit or a bridge rectifier - [you know what that is i.e. tractor charger] then to a dc transformer [ a toroid] and finally a voltage increaser or reducer and a zener diode which locks the voltage to a certain range. then on to the rest of the circuit.Comment
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I took a electronic board that did not work to a electronic service man. He check the board out and it needed a $2.00 diode, but i had to put a new $165.00 board because we are not aloud to repair them. You are right, me being a licensed HVAC contractor could get in trouble with the insurance co. it something like a fire was caused by this board. Be leave me its not a strange issue. This is a sue happy world. PaulOriginally posted by mrcaptainbob View PostComment
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A/C issue...
Hey! When you relate it to tractors....well NOW I got it!
.... Zener diode, rectifier, yes, familiar terms, HayZee. I'll look at the schematic and trace it on the circuit board and see if I can understand it all and match them up. I'm suspicious of that transformer, as it is the one piece that changes the voltage from ac before it gets to anything else on that board. I will test it by plugging the unit in and verifying the output on both sides of that transformer. I expect it to have been fried as it's the first thing past the fuse. Maybe I should check continuity first, before I plug it in. If I get that, then I'll check for proper voltage. Is this the appropriate sequence?
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find a common point first. look at the fuse. if its a glass type, you'll see if the element is melted or not. then with your meter, one probe goes to earth ground and put the other probe on one side of the fuse, then the other. if you read 120 on both sides of the fuse then the fuse is ok. ok, the secondary winding. it may be a step down type. you'll have two or three wires coming off this. if there's three wires then the middle one is common to both secondary windings. you'll read 12 volts on each leg to the center one. this is typical of a half wave power supply. the middle is called the center tap. in each outboard winding there'll be a diode, with its output tied to the other one. on each half cycle of the ac wave the diode conducts and adds to the other diode giving you 24 volts. a bridge rectifier will be connected across both outer windings and its output will be from the juncture of the other two middle parts of the bridge and again you'll read 24 volts - maybe a tad higher.Comment
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Ge a/c
Finally found the schematic. The numbers on it are: ASW10ABS1 ASH10ABS1.
To recap...when plugged in nothing lights up, nothing comes on. Neither does the remote work. The 250V 3.15A fuse does have continuity. Here's the schematic. I hope it's legible....Comment
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