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wiring should be the same on both boards. PaulOriginally posted by whuggs1 View PostThank you. I will bypass this thing next time it turns off. Been working fine today go figure So basically it's hooking the small white wire(from the Tstat) to the side post on the contractor ?
Is the diagram the one on the 621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer ? its the replacement for the I have but think it's the same.
Ok so I was right, I was gona connect the red and yellow just wanted to make sure, I hate electrical stuff. I got a big zap last night when I was looking to were all the wires go and try to learn how they work. Think my ring caught a the cap post,,,,,,,,,,,, my hand was still tingling 30 minutes later LOL
I sure appreciate all the help ! We just had the AC guy out before this happened so couldn't afford him to come out again.
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Thank you. I will bypass this thing next time it turns off. Been working fine today go figure So basically it's hooking the small white wire(from the Tstat) to the side post on the contractor ?
Is the diagram the one on the 621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer ? its the replacement for the I have but think it's the same.
Ok so I was right, I was gona connect the red and yellow just wanted to make sure, I hate electrical stuff. I got a big zap last night when I was looking to were all the wires go and try to learn how they work. Think my ring caught a the cap post,,,,,,,,,,,, my hand was still tingling 30 minutes later LOL
I sure appreciate all the help ! We just had the AC guy out before this happened so couldn't afford him to come out again.
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Paul here, I just found the wiring diagram on your board Take Yellow T1 off the board, Take Red T2 wire off the board Tape these two wires together and it should work. Leave T3 wires on the board. PaulOriginally posted by paul52446m View PostI can't tell by your pic.. When you look at that board you have three wires BLK.
YEL. RED. Can you tell me what those post are Paul
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I can't tell by your pic.. When you look at that board you have three wires BLK.Originally posted by whuggs1 View PostOk pics sent to your email last night, just need your help on how to bypass the delay board. think I might now how but don't want to do it until I know for sure, I'm putting the old Tstat back on now since the new one didn't help at all.
Wayne
YEL. RED. Can you tell me what those post are Paul
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Ok pics sent to your email last night, just need your help on how to bypass the delay board. think I might now how but don't want to do it until I know for sure, I'm putting the old Tstat back on now since the new one didn't help at all.
Wayne
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I will get you some better pic's tonight when I get home, You want them of the contactor and circuit board wiring ? The new thermosat I put on does have the built in delay, but i'm going to put the old one back on(since it was not the problem) that I don't think it has the delay,it is a better programable unit.
I ordered a new boad for it but will be mid next week before I get it, so would still like to bypass it untill then.
will get the pics to you tonight 6:30 ish
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Yes you can take it out of the circuit. Can you see where the low volt 24 volt wires tie to the relay in pic. one? Take the low 24volt wires coming to the condenser and put them on the relay. That board is a time delay that works after the unit turns off. It stops the unit from coming on for a short time so the gases can balance out and not try to start under a hi head pressure.Originally posted by whuggs1 View PostThat circuit board was my last option, Wish I would of started there fist.
621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer @ mobilehomerepair.com
It replaces the one I have PT# 6214770 there is a instruction sheet there as well, can it be bypassed and how ? and if my stat has a built in delay do I still need this circuit board ?
thanks for the help !
I can't post links yet or I would of
Your thermostat might have a time delay on start that does the same job
If your stat does not have a time delay and you turn your cooling up and then right back down, you could snap your breaker off the the condenser.
I can't see your wiring good enough to tell you where to tie the 24 volt wires on to the relay. If you need to send better pic. or wire diagram. send to
paulm989@hotmail.com Paul
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That circuit board was my last option, Wish I would of started there fist.
621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer @ mobilehomerepair.com
It replaces the one I have PT# 6214770 there is a instruction sheet there as well, can it be bypassed and how ? and if my stat has a built in delay do I still need this circuit board ?
thanks for the help !
I can't post links yet or I would of
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You have the 240volt power, you have the 24volt power, and the unit runs, so replace that electronic board. I am guessing that board is a time delay and its not working. The only other thing i know of to check is to make sure you have a full 24 volts, boards like that don't like to work if the voltage is low, like down to 21 or 22. PaulOriginally posted by whuggs1 View PostHere are some pics for you of the board and contactor area, the one lead is the on with 24v and the ac will now turn off if I put it back on, sorry not gona happen still 100 here at 10:30 LOL
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Here are some pics for you of the board and contactor area, the one lead is the on with 24v and the ac will now turn off if I put it back on, sorry not gona happen still 100 here at 10:30 LOL
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Another guy thinks the outside board is a 'defrost control' and also thinks that is my problem. I'm not good with this electric stuff. I got some pics and will post them shortly.
Wayne
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no if you check across the two low volt wires you should have 24 volts. One wire is hot and the other is common. Like i said if you have 24 volts and it does not start then the problem is in that board. I don't know this electric board on the outside unit, but it is not working right. Sounds like your relay is made and what you are doing by taking the 24 volt wire off is recycling the electronic board. Next time it does not start just turn your stat up and then back down and see if that recycles the unit to start. PaulOriginally posted by whuggs1 View PostDo both the out side wires to the relay suposed to have 24v ? Because only one does. Also the only way i can get it to start(if it doesn't by it's self)is pull the wire off that has the 24v. It starts then I put it back on. there is alot of arching in the in contactor when it's pulled off and sometimes will shut off when I put it back on. Will I hurt anything by doing that ?
Yes I read about the delay thing and it will blink on the TA whe it is in delay mod.
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Do both the out side wires to the relay suposed to have 24v ? Because only one does. Also the only way i can get it to start(if it doesn't by it's self)is pull the wire off that has the 24v. It starts then I put it back on. there is alot of arching in the in contactor when it's pulled off and sometimes will shut off when I put it back on. Will I hurt anything by doing that ?
Yes I read about the delay thing and it will blink on the TA whe it is in delay mod.
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When you check those low volt wires out side and you have 24 volts than your unit should run. Remember you might have a delay on the unit coming on If it does not come on then the problem is in the board out side. PaulOriginally posted by whuggs1 View Postok the 24 volt wires at the outdoor relay (1) has 24v (1) does not have anything. the one that has the 24v goes to a small circuit board. The wire with nothing coneccts with a big yellow wire and a tiny red(i'm gussing it goes to the circuit board inside on the blower / heater.
"Is this air that is on a furnace?" This is a split system with blower / heater inside and AC unit outside.
ok the TA has a C post but it's not used, The circuit board connections on the furnace/blower unit have a C with a small red wire and a big yellow wire. The yellow wire goes into the blend air box. The C doesn't have any volts, but the Y has 24V whe calling for cool.
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