Outside AC unit not turning on !

[whuggs1]

Outside ac unit not starting. I don't have 24V on the side wires to contactor(not sure if I’m checking it correctly). So far replaced contactor, cap, and thermostat. If RC wire and Y wire are connected from ta it will start. I can also pull one of the 24v wires off the contactor and it will start as well. This morning I went out to pull the wire from the contactor to start the ac and decided to look at the little circuit board and wiggled a resister on the board and it started.........help I’m going crazy.
Unit is a: NORDYNE SPLIT SYSTEM
Model S1BA - 048K

Please help

[paul52446m]

Outside ac unit not starting. I don't have 24V on the side wires to contactor(not sure if I’m checking it correctly). So far replaced contactor, cap, and thermostat. If RC wire and Y wire are connected from ta it will start. I can also pull one of the 24v wires off the contactor and it will start as well. This morning I went out to pull the wire from the contactor to start the ac and decided to look at the little circuit board and wiggled a resister on the board and it started.........help I’m going crazy.
Unit is a: NORDYNE SPLIT SYSTEM
Model S1BA - 048K

Please help

Ok you said you changed your stat. You have a RH and RC post in your stat.
You need to have a jumper between these two post. Do that first and see what happens. Paul

[whuggs1]

Yes have the jumper from RC to R,(no RC) the reason we changed the stat was I read that if you connect the RC to the Y wire the ac should start(and it did) so the satat must be bad. Now i'm thinking maybe the old one is still good.

Today my wife said the ac had turned off and then it did restart with no problems. So seems like 10% of the time it works and 90% of the time not.

I was asked in a nother forum to remove both 24v wires to the contactor and then turn on the air,use a screw driver to push in the contactor and see if it will stay running. It just pops back out and turns off.


wayne

[paul52446m]

Yes have the jumper from RC to R,(no RC) the reason we changed the stat was I read that if you connect the RC to the Y wire the ac should start(and it did) so the satat must be bad. Now i'm thinking maybe the old one is still good.

Today my wife said the ac had turned off and then it did restart with no problems. So seems like 10% of the time it works and 90% of the time not.

I was asked in a nother forum to remove both 24v wires to the contactor and then turn on the air,use a screw driver to push in the contactor and see if it will stay running. It just pops back out and turns off.


wayne

When you take off the 24 volt wires at the outdoor relay then with the stat calling for cooling you should test 24 volts on those two wires. Is this air that is on a furnace? If so when you are calling for cooling check post Y to C at the furnace and see if you have 24 volts? Also keep in mind that some of these thermostats and electronic boards have a least a 5 min. time delay built into them,
so it can be 5 to 10 min after you call for cooling before it comes on. Paul

[whuggs1]

ok the 24 volt wires at the outdoor relay (1) has 24v (1) does not have anything. the one that has the 24v goes to a small circuit board. The wire with nothing coneccts with a big yellow wire and a tiny red(i'm gussing it goes to the circuit board inside on the blower / heater.

"Is this air that is on a furnace?" This is a split system with blower / heater inside and AC unit outside.


ok the TA has a C post but it's not used, The circuit board connections on the furnace/blower unit have a C with a small red wire and a big yellow wire. The yellow wire goes into the blend air box. The C doesn't have any volts, but the Y has 24V whe calling for cool.

[paul52446m]

ok the 24 volt wires at the outdoor relay (1) has 24v (1) does not have anything. the one that has the 24v goes to a small circuit board. The wire with nothing coneccts with a big yellow wire and a tiny red(i'm gussing it goes to the circuit board inside on the blower / heater.

"Is this air that is on a furnace?" This is a split system with blower / heater inside and AC unit outside.


ok the TA has a C post but it's not used, The circuit board connections on the furnace/blower unit have a C with a small red wire and a big yellow wire. The yellow wire goes into the blend air box. The C doesn't have any volts, but the Y has 24V whe calling for cool.

When you check those low volt wires out side and you have 24 volts than your unit should run. Remember you might have a delay on the unit coming on If it does not come on then the problem is in the board out side. Paul

[whuggs1]

Do both the out side wires to the relay suposed to have 24v ? Because only one does. Also the only way i can get it to start(if it doesn't by it's self)is pull the wire off that has the 24v. It starts then I put it back on. there is alot of arching in the in contactor when it's pulled off and sometimes will shut off when I put it back on. Will I hurt anything by doing that ?

Yes I read about the delay thing and it will blink on the TA whe it is in delay mod.

[paul52446m]

Do both the out side wires to the relay suposed to have 24v ? Because only one does. Also the only way i can get it to start(if it doesn't by it's self)is pull the wire off that has the 24v. It starts then I put it back on. there is alot of arching in the in contactor when it's pulled off and sometimes will shut off when I put it back on. Will I hurt anything by doing that ?

Yes I read about the delay thing and it will blink on the TA whe it is in delay mod.

no if you check across the two low volt wires you should have 24 volts. One wire is hot and the other is common. Like i said if you have 24 volts and it does not start then the problem is in that board. I don't know this electric board on the outside unit, but it is not working right. Sounds like your relay is made and what you are doing by taking the 24 volt wire off is recycling the electronic board. Next time it does not start just turn your stat up and then back down and see if that recycles the unit to start. Paul

[whuggs1]

Another guy thinks the outside board is a 'defrost control' and also thinks that is my problem. I'm not good with this electric stuff. I got some pics and will post them shortly.

Wayne

[whuggs1]

Here are some pics for you of the board and contactor area, the one lead is the on with 24v and the ac will now turn off if I put it back on, sorry not gona happen still 100 here at 10:30 LOL

[paul52446m]

Here are some pics for you of the board and contactor area, the one lead is the on with 24v and the ac will now turn off if I put it back on, sorry not gona happen still 100 here at 10:30 LOL

You have the 240volt power, you have the 24volt power, and the unit runs, so replace that electronic board. I am guessing that board is a time delay and its not working. The only other thing i know of to check is to make sure you have a full 24 volts, boards like that don't like to work if the voltage is low, like down to 21 or 22. Paul

[whuggs1]

That circuit board was my last option, Wish I would of started there fist.

621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer @ mobilehomerepair.com

It replaces the one I have PT# 6214770 there is a instruction sheet there as well, can it be bypassed and how ? and if my stat has a built in delay do I still need this circuit board ?

thanks for the help !


I can't post links yet or I would of

[paul52446m]

That circuit board was my last option, Wish I would of started there fist.

621586 Anti Short-Cycle Timer @ mobilehomerepair.com

It replaces the one I have PT# 6214770 there is a instruction sheet there as well, can it be bypassed and how ? and if my stat has a built in delay do I still need this circuit board ?

thanks for the help !


I can't post links yet or I would of

Yes you can take it out of the circuit. Can you see where the low volt 24 volt wires tie to the relay in pic. one? Take the low 24volt wires coming to the condenser and put them on the relay. That board is a time delay that works after the unit turns off. It stops the unit from coming on for a short time so the gases can balance out and not try to start under a hi head pressure.
Your thermostat might have a time delay on start that does the same job
If your stat does not have a time delay and you turn your cooling up and then right back down, you could snap your breaker off the the condenser.
I can't see your wiring good enough to tell you where to tie the 24 volt wires on to the relay. If you need to send better pic. or wire diagram. send to
paulm989@hotmail.com Paul

[whuggs1]

I will get you some better pic's tonight when I get home, You want them of the contactor and circuit board wiring ? The new thermosat I put on does have the built in delay, but i'm going to put the old one back on(since it was not the problem) that I don't think it has the delay,it is a better programable unit.


I ordered a new boad for it but will be mid next week before I get it, so would still like to bypass it untill then.

will get the pics to you tonight 6:30 ish

[whuggs1]

Ok pics sent to your email last night, just need your help on how to bypass the delay board. think I might now how but don't want to do it until I know for sure, I'm putting the old Tstat back on now since the new one didn't help at all.

Wayne