Robert Shaw-Grayson fireplace valve.

[waxing]

Hello. I have a Travis Industries Xtrordinair gas fireplace made in June '98, with a Robert Shaw-Grayson gas valve (millivolt system). Part number 7000MVRB-3-LC. The pilot went out so I tried to relight it. When I release the gas control knob, the pilot goes out. The local pro who installed the unit and diagnosed the prob says the valve is shot but left me to find a replacement. Shaw says the valve is obsolete.
An additional number on the valve body is 770-826-319. My question is: Is the valve shot / repairable? Is this the replacement? Robert shaw 710-511 listed at Patriot Supply.com. (site rules won't allow me to insert the url)
Thanks.

[paul52446m]

Hello. I have a Travis Industries Xtrordinair gas fireplace made in June '98, with a Robert Shaw-Grayson gas valve (millivolt system). Part number 7000MVRB-3-LC. The pilot went out so I tried to relight it. When I release the gas control knob, the pilot goes out. The local pro who installed the unit and diagnosed the prob says the valve is shot but left me to find a replacement. Shaw says the valve is obsolete.
An additional number on the valve body is 770-826-319. My question is: Is the valve shot / repairable? Is this the replacement? Robert shaw 710-511 listed at Patriot Supply.com. (site rules won't allow me to insert the url)
Thanks.

Did the people that said the valve is bad check it out and if they did, how did they test it. You have to test the millivolt power the power pile is producing.
The pilot has to be clean, with a good blue flame surrounding the power pile, and the power pile has to be up in the flame at least 1\2" You have to test it
with a millivolt tester. Make sure all wire are clean and tight. The valve can be replaced by another brand as long as it is the same millivolt power and you can make it fit where it needs to go. Its hard for the average person to yest it because you need the right tester. Paul

[waxing]

No, as a matter of fact he didn't test the unit for milli-voltage. The flame is orange and about 3/4".
Now I'm curious. What causes the voltage? Does it come to the valve unit from the thermostat control? Where might I be able to find out the voltage requirements for the valve?

You've already been more helpful than any local pro. Thanks.

[paul52446m]

No, as a matter of fact he didn't test the unit for milli-voltage. The flame is orange and about 3/4".
Now I'm curious. What causes the voltage? Does it come to the valve unit from the thermostat control? Where might I be able to find out the voltage requirements for the valve?

You've already been more helpful than any local pro. Thanks.

With out getting too hi tech. the power pile in the pilot has a
inner and otter conductor.
the pilot flame going across this power pile is what produces this millivolt power.
So this is why i was asking about a clean pilot, and how it surrounding the power pile. Try disconnecting the two wires on the gas valve that are marked TH and TH. Leave the other wires on and make sure they are clean and tight.
How much wire do you have between you fire place and your thermostat? Should not be more than 25' and it should be 18 gage wire. Make sure all connection are clean and tight. It is a millivolt stat? You might have to take the pilot apart and clean it to get the right flame and that will get you a much better millivolt reading. Paul

[HayZee518]

the millivolt generator relies on the fact that two dissimilar metals, fused at their outer end, produce a voltage dependent on how hot the flame is. one wire gives up electrons one accepts electrons. this is called a j-k thermocouple.

[waxing]

I understand. It also sounds like if I was going to start throwing money and parts at the problem, I be better off starting with the pilot which is A) easier to get at. b) cheaper. C) more likely the cause.
Thank you.
Richard

[HayZee518]

just to prove a point, get a mercury battery like for a wrist watch. the outer button is positive and the inner button is negative. connect it to your gas valve where the thermopile connections go and light the pilot by pressing the on valve and releasing it when the pilot is constant. the mercury battery has low current so it should keep the pilot valve open. Use it just for a test. DON'T LEAVE IT CONNECTED! PLEASE! If the valve stays open and the pilot stays lit, then you know it's the thermopile. Any HVAC suppliers should have one. Check the gas valve for any information on the millivolt input 500 mv or 750 mv. get a thermopile that matches the input.

[waxing]

I don't have a mercury battery... will my Ford truck's 12 volt work? (I'm kidding, but from what I've seen so far, a local yokel might not be.) That's a very clever test and I'm going to do just that. You may have just saved me hundreds of dollars, sir. Thanks a million.
Richard

[karlsteinberg]

Gas Valve and pilot light

You may want to check the thermocouple and or the thermopile - your system may have one or both - depending on its age. The valve could be AOK if the 'pro' didn't specifically check these two very inexpensive items.
You could easily replace these items yourself and their cost is minimal

Hello. I have a Travis Industries Xtrordinair gas fireplace made in June '98, with a Robert Shaw-Grayson gas valve (millivolt system). Part number 7000MVRB-3-LC. The pilot went out so I tried to relight it. When I release the gas control knob, the pilot goes out. The local pro who installed the unit and diagnosed the prob says the valve is shot but left me to find a replacement. Shaw says the valve is obsolete.
An additional number on the valve body is 770-826-319. My question is: Is the valve shot / repairable? Is this the replacement? Robert shaw 710-511 listed at Patriot Supply.com. (site rules won't allow me to insert the url)
Thanks.