Radiant floor heating setup gurgles?

[Stayouttadabunker]

All those auto bleeders do the same job. They will take the air out even if you only have 5 LBS of pressure. Paul

Thanks paul !
I took it apart and see how it works!
It has a float and little piece of rubber on a lever that opens/closes the air hole depending on the height of water in the pipe.

The old air vent had very dirty lever points and it wasn't allowing the levers to move freely.
Rusty iron water had a LOT to do with restricting the movement
of the valves' components!

[HayZee518]

the power company I worked for in Massachusetts used to overhaul one generator per every six months. each generator had eight large radiator coolers for the thrust bearing oil. on top of each cooler there was a float type air bleeder like the one you have only bigger. the mechanics overhauled those units when the units were taken out of service. the gunk that came out was enough to jam the float inside something that you found out by taking it apart. rusty water will do that to internal parts. a lot of the newer air relief valves are now sealed cheaper to buy a new one than trying to repair the old ones. less messier too! yeah, I'll help you. nov 7-8-9 I'm going to the mohegan sun in connecticut and blow some money but after that I'm free.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I'll bet those machines were huge HayZee!

Here's some pictures of the old Amtrol #732 air vent I replaced with the newer one...
I've also attached a photo of the two circulators I'm going to use to zone the 2 slabs with electric water valves...

Don't blow your entire life savings down in Ct! lol
Win some dough man!>>>

[HayZee518]

notice the two circulators don't have a flange ball valve like the blue one. they use the two gate valves on either side of the pump to isolate it from the system. I believe the inlet is the left side and outlet to each respective zone is on the right.

[Stayouttadabunker]

notice the two circulators don't have a flange ball valve like the blue one. they use the two gate valves on either side of the pump to isolate it from the system. I believe the inlet is the left side and outlet to each respective zone is on the right.

Good eyes HayZee,
On top of them ( I wish I would have included a photo) are two electric water valves
that are hooked up directly to each of the 2 room thermostats to make them "zoned".

When a room stat calls for more heat, it opens it's own valve via the zone panel box
and the circulator on that line kicks on.

[HayZee518]

Right! That's the way they're supposed to work. Honeywell and Taco makes them. The Taco can be a three or four wire terminal. When you turn up the thermostat, it feeds 24 volts to its own zone valve and heats a wax slug inside the head of the valve. When it is melted sufficiently the valve stem rises opening the valve and closes a set of contacts. the contacts feed a burner relay or control module which in the case of an oil fired boiler, turns on the burner. In your case it operates the zone circulator and may also turn on the water heater for the system. That large tank you got in the corner stores the hot water until its needed and the water heater heats up and re-inforces the water in that tank. the cantherm setup you have isn't hard to figure out. what its doing is extracting heat from that ground water loop and feeds it to a heat exchanger. THAT heat exchanger is coupled together with another one that uses freon like in an air conditioner and through the means of a refrigerant reversing valve operates the system like an air conditioner but puts out heat instead of cool air. in the summer the valve is reversed and blows cool air and deposits the warm air back into the ground water loop.

[Stayouttadabunker]

lol ! That Cantherm is too old and way beyond reasonable repairs.
I'd prefer to install a new unit later on to replace that using the existing spaghetti duct work system.

You're right on about the electric water valves being Honeywell's.
The ones on the storage tank close to the basement floor are shot from rust - in fact the motors' shaft came completely separated from the ball valve gear.
I need to disconnect the faulty Cantherm from the system I'm working on but first I need to replace some rusted shutoff water valves and rusted pressure relief valves that are leaking.
The workers at Aubachon hardware and Hulbert Bros. know me very well now...lol

Attached below is a picture of the Honeywell electric water valve similar to the 6 valves I have...>>>

[Stayouttadabunker]

An Update to this project....

The 25yr. old defunct Cantherm520 ground source heat pump
is removed - along with it's 80 gal. recovery storage tank.
An 8yr. old DHW heater (40 gal. A.O.Smith) is now in operation...partly.
I flushed out years of rusty, brown sediment water with freshwater to the point where it's now fairly clear.

Both the top and bottom elements won't go above my multimeter-measured 119.36VAC.
Wiring is the same...I didn't change it at all.
In fact, the incoming leads measure 239.89VAC above the reset switch above the top element on the heater.

Incoming SWP ( Static Water Pressure) is 70psi.
I installed a brand new DHW air expansion tank onto the
cold intake port on top of the water heater.
The air expansion tank has about 45lbs of air.
Should I add more air?
I'm thinking it should be filled to about 68lbs psi?
It is ST-5 rated for 100lbs psi max.

Water pressure in shower is noticeably weaker than before but
the previous air tank had less psi - 12psi to be exact.
Of course, that was a boiler-type air expansion tank for the Cantherm520.
Why is there now less pressure coming out of the shower heads?