Heating Garage

[Jtfoxman77]

Hi all! First visit here but liking the info on the site already. I apologize in advance as my question may make you a bit winded reading it.
I have a simple A frame garage, concrete floor, 2 windows with storm windows, man door and a decently insulated garage door, 24 x 16 with the roof peak around 12ft. It started as unfinished with most of the electric in place when we moved in i just added a few extra outlets, wasn't many to begin with. Added a few new breakers to do this. I am in the process of finishing it, 10 years later. I have the walls insulated and the wall board up and painted. i currently heat with a kerosene heater while I'm in there which gets it up to about 70 within a hour or so and i have never seen the temp drop below 20 while not being heated after the wall insulation was added.
I am about to start the ceiling and roof. I have gable end vents on either side of the garage and plan on adding eave vents. After this i plan an adding the insulation baffles and go up 4ft on the underside of the roof with wall board. After that I will be added basically a craw space above this 4ft angled ceiling wall board. this will be accomplished by running new joists from 1 side to the other above the 4ft wall board and covering with wall board and insulating above to create the crawl space. This should allow air up the eaves under the the part of the roof that is insulated and wall boarded with enough space for air to get up and into the open crawl space that has the gable vents. So basically it will be a cathedral ceiling.
After finishing it will be about 4000 cubic ft. of usable space with a small crawl space storage area above it.
I would like to heat this area to about 40f when not in it and up to 60 while in use. The kerosene will accomplish the 60, although it adds more humidity and condensation than I want even with the gable vents still exposed at the moment. But how do i keep it at 40 with only 110v outlets available and no way to add a 220 line. Need this done cheaply but safe. My one wall has 3 outlets that only get used when I need them and a outside spot light on the line. The other wall has a frig on 1 of the outlets so don't want to plug a heater into one of them. My other breakers have my air compressor on 1, tv and lights on the other breaker, shop bench has 2 outlets on a breaker and my last breaker has my garage door and a pull down multiple outlet use for a shop light and some power tools when in use.
Plan on finishing this come spring time as right now we haven't seen temps above 15 for a while in my part of PA. Tonight looks like a -10 night with -20 wind chill. Garage will stay stay above 20 if i heat for a few hours before i shut it down for the night. When not this cold it always stays above 20.
Thanks and sorry again for my long first post. Now i'm off to try to stop the gurgling bath tub when i flush when it is this cold.

[FordMan59]

If you could find a used Monitor kerosene or propane unit you might be able to get it pretty cheap and it would do the job you're wanting. I sometimes see the older units listed on eBay for $200-$400. They are vented and thermostatically controlled and can be set as low as 42*F if I recall correctly. They're also very efficient and the only thing that uses electricity is the combustion fan and circulation fans which are very low wattage. I've been using a kerosene unit to heat my home for the last 19 years. Many of those years were in the Charlotte, NC area, I now live in south central KY and have never used more than 150-175 gallons of kerosene in a winter with a few years in the Charlotte area using less than 100 gallons. In the past 2 weeks I've used about 12 gallons of kerosene, the first of those two weeks wasn't extremely cold, but this week we've had highs in the 10's-low 30's and lows in the negative single digits to 20's with currently about a foot of snow on the ground. I'm heating about 7500 cf. and keep mine set at 64* during the overnight hours while in bed and 68* during the hours we're up. If you're not familiar with Monitor heating systems there's a sub forum for them here on this site.

[Jtfoxman77]

Thanks for the response. My only 2 concerns I need to research is how much clearance it needs, size, how to store the kero, how it feeds and filling it. You pointing me to the right forum is greatly appreciated. Thank you. Iay now be able to stay warm all.the time.

[FordMan59]

My heater is a 22,000 BTU unit which is the smaller of the Monitors, it's roughly 2' wide, 2.5' tall and from the wall to the front of the heater is about 1-1 1/2'. The 422 which is what I'm using can be operated off of a capsule tank that comes with the heater and holds about 1 1/3 gallons of kerosene or you can hook it up to an outside tank and have the fuel delivered by a fuel company. If you buy a larger Monitor unit 43,000 BTU it has to be hooked up to an outside source. When I lived in NC I had a 55 gallon drum that I filled a couple times a year. Since I've moved to KY I've been using the capsule tank and filling it whenever needed. I think they recommend having about 1' clearance on the sides and 3' at the front. Heater installation is really simple, just level it up, cut one hole in the wall I think about 2 1/2" in diameter for the exhaust tube, plug it in and you're done unless you decide to run off of an outside source where you'd have to set up the tank/drum and run copper tubing from the tank to the heater. When I installed mine after moving it from NC to KY it took about 15-30 minutes to install. Most of that time was spent measuring and laying out where the hole needed to be cut for the exhaust tube. My son bought a used 422 off of eBay a couple years ago for $500 + $50 shipping, it came from CA and had probably been used very little, it looked and ran like new.

[Jtfoxman77]

Thanks for the insight. Looks like the way to go if I could find 1. Already have a 55g drum.