Adding a Cold Air Return

[ajg93]

My 2 storey house tends to hold most of the heat on the first (main) floor. Currently there is one large cold air return low to the ground in the living room (right above the furnace). I am thinking of adding a second smaller "high" return in the hall on the main floor (using the stud/joist space that is used for the second floor return). Will this help remove some of warm air in the house and help balance out the upper and basement level temperatures?

Thanks,
Adam

[imeduc]

What do you have for outlets and return down there in the basement. When you are thinking for heat you want the returns low MOST of the time. You could try and run the fan 24/7 This helps sometimes

ED

My mistakes dont define me they inform me.

[Hube]

If your main floor level is TOO warm, slightly close any dampers a touch that are serving this level.(you may have to experiment with any adjustments) This will send more heat to the other basement area, etc.
It would be wise NOT to install another high return in the main level area. Do you have any return air (very necessary) in this basement area?

As Imeduc suggested, running the fan on continuous LOW speed (if equipt) will certainly help. Hube

[ajg93]

I do have return air in the basement. Also, I do close off the supply vents however all the heat still remains on the main floor (even with very little supply heat. I thought adding another r/a might help.

Adam

PS - I do run the fan continously but that doesn't really help too much.

[Hube]

Assuming you have ample supply's and return's to the upper floor and the basement,do us a favor, and try this;
Close off all heat to this main level, thus supplying air to the upper floor and basement ONLY.

Keep any main level doors from the basement or upper floors CLOSED.
In other words, completely isolate this area from any supply air.
Keep all the return air open.
I also assume your T stat is on this main level.
Set theT stat a couple of degrees above the main level temp so the unit will cycle.
After a few cycles what occurs to any of the 3 levels?
Does the temp on this main level remain too hot?
Does the temp rise in the basement?
Does the upper level get warmer?
Post back with this info and we will try to advise further.

[ajg93]

Ok... (T-stat on main level, 2 r/a in upper level - one in hall, one in master bedroom, 1 r/a in basement)...After the furance had cycled and brought the main floor temperature to t-stat set...the upper level was about 1-2 degrees celcius cooler than the main floor while the basement was 1-2 degrees warmer than the main level. Now the furance will continue to cycle a bit to keep the set temperature but after a while, it will cycle less. When this occurs, the temp upstairs will fall 2-3 degrees lower than the main floor while the basement will also fall 1-2 degrees lower than the main floor. As I mentioned, all the heat seems to stay on the main level. If you need more info, let me know.

Additionally, I have the t-stat set to 6 cycles per hour. Any benefit to decreasing the number of cycles to 3 or 1? I read someone that 1 cycle per hour can be beneficial.

Thanks for all the advice.

Adam

[Hube]

This new information, together with the results indicate that your duct layout is NOT correctly installed.
Also the results of this lastest experiment indicates the insulation, (leaky windows,etc) in this upper area is insufficient due to poor air supply distribution.
As far as any cycling time goes, with an outside temperature of, say freezing(32) with a properly sealed/insulated home with a properly installed and well laid out duct system, this unit should only cycle ONCE approx every 45 minutes or so. TWO at the most. When the temperature out side is say 0 degrees F, then the unit could possibly cycle 2 times an hour. Depending on the type of unit and fuel, a cycle could be as long as approx 6-8 minutes. (this can vary)... But certainly not anywheres near 6 cycles an hour. yike!
You say you have it set for 6 cycles per hour? Wow! no way.
What model T stat do you have?
Since your description of whats happening is somewhat a way out of line, we would strongly suggest that you call in a hvac PRO and have them staighten this mess out. It appears that too many absurd adjustments ,etc have been made to the system without any real "hands on" knowledge of the hvac trade.
To be more frank, you got a real problem and the only way to get satisfaction is to get a Pro to come in and actually "see" whats up. Good luck, Hube

[ajg93]

Thanks for the analysis.

My t-stat is the honeywell CT3500. The factory pre-set is for 6 cylces per hour - I did not think it was that unusual. The other settings are:

1 = Gravity or steam system
3 = Hot water, High Eff
6= Gas or oil forced air
9= Electric

I've tried 3 and 6 and 6 seems to be slightly better however some people i have heard used 1 on even a forced air system.

Adam

[Hube]

On a normal properly sized and installed system , if the house is fairly tight the T stat will only call for a cycle approx once in an hours time depending on the outside temperature.... If it calls for heat several times in an hour, either you got a door and a window wide open (lol) or, like i've been telling you, this system needs a qualified going over.
BTW, the numbers you mention on the T stat ARE NOT THE CYCLES PER HOURhour. They are position settings for various types of heating systems.