A/C fan motor capacitor wiring

[suprheat]

Ok finally you spilled the beans...you said it was a heat pump. First off I was wondering why you changed the contactor style from a one-pole to a two? Several years ago compressor manufacturers installed a resister internally in their compressors to act as a psuedo-crankcase heater. The heater will only work by having one leg of power always on - hence the single pole contactor. Not all compressors, however, require this but I would bet if it came from the factory with a single-pole then a single-pole is needed. After all for reasons unknown, a single-pole contactor costs more than a double so I would assume a manufacturer wouldn't just voluntarily put a more expensive component in a unit for the fun of it. Now if your compressor has an external crankcase heater stapped on or wires coming out of a well at the bottom with a heater in it you probably don't have to worry about it. Now you may wonder what a crankcase heater does. It heats the oil in the compressor to boil off any refrigerant that may migrated to the oil sump. If refrigerant is present in your oil then you do not have 100% oil lubricating the moving parts in the compressor thus paving the way for friction and compressor failure. Now liquid refrigerant generally mixes with the oil in lower ambient temperatures, so most A/Cs are fine because most people don't turn them on until it gets above 80 degrees. But some people with allergies turn them on even when it's 70 because they want to keep the windows closed and that's why the psuedo crankcase heaters are on most units now. Then there are people like you who have a heat pump. It runs when it's all the way down to zero outside. All heat pumps have crankcase heaters for this reason. You need to find out if you bypassed a crankcase heater by installing the 2-pole. Otherwise make sure your back up heat is working cause you'll need it. The click you get when you switch the t-stat to cool is the reversing valve in the outdoor unit. It's the thing with a solenoid and 4 copper pipes coming out of it. It changes your outside unit from being a condensing unit in the summer to an evaporating unit in the winter. York normally has a time delay feature built in to their control modules which are located in the outdoor unit. This time delay is usually 5 minutes from the time the unit shuts off - not on. This is a "delay on break" not a "delay on make". "Delay on make" relays are not really intended for applications such as this. It doesn't make any sense for a unit to wait an additional length of time to turn on when it was alraedy off long enough for the pressures to equalize. It would only make the homeowner more uncomfortable because after all the unit wanted to come on because the temp in the house had risen high enough for it to come on. So with a "delay on break" relay, if you had it off for more than 5 min and then turned it on, it would immediately come on. If it was off for 4 minutes and you turned it on, it would come on in one minute. As for the motor the white/brown wire is internally connected to the white wire. It's purpose is to make the motor more versatile to fit more applications - that way a service tech won't have to carry so many parts. Same reason for the leads to reverse motor direction. When it works out for me to use 3 wires instead of 4 (not counting the leads to reverse direction) I simply cut and tape off the brown/white.

[grant]

A/C fan motor capacitor wiring

I’m having a very similar problem with replacing the motor on my AC. My old motor’s wires were black orange and blue, and my new motor has brown/white stripe, brown, black, and yellow. When I bought the new motor, they said I would need a new capacitor to run it. The old capacitor had 3 outlets on the top, 2 with 4 hookups, and 1 with 2 hookups. The blue wire from my old motor went to the outlet with two hookups, and the orange wire went to one of the 4 hookup outlets along with a yellow wire from line 1 of the contactor, and a red wire was by itself on the other 4 hookup coming from the compressor. My new capacitor only has two outlets on top, both having 4 hookups. Do I need to use this new capacitor by itself for the new motor, or can I use the original capacitor for this motor? Everything on my new motor is the same except for the amps, the old motor was 1.25 amps and the new motor is 1.3 amps. The old capacitor has 35+5UF/370vav 60HZ on it, and the new one has run capacitor-oval, 5 MFD + or – 5% oval, Dual 370/440.