Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Trane Furnace Blower Running Nearly Continuously

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Trane Furnace Blower Running Nearly Continuously

    I have a Trane Furnace UE060A936K0

    Beginning at the end of the last cooling season (and continuing into this season), our furnace blower fan is running through the heating cycle and past the FAN-OFF period when it should be de-energized. The fan will turn off eventually... just before the igniters heat up and the burners catch, at which time the entire heating cycle starts up again. The tstat is set to "Auto", but if I switch it to "Off" the blower will continue to run just like it does when the tstat is set to "Auto". After a long period of time (between 10 min and 45 min) the blower will eventually turn off, and stay off. If I turn off the power switch directly to the unit, the blower turns off, and will not turn on again, until a heating cycle starts it again.

    The end result of all of this is a that floats between cool and warm, with the blower motor pushing air out at us nearly continuously. If the tstat is set at 70, the house warms to 70, the burners turn off and cool air comes into the house until it reaches about 66, then the burners reignite, and warm air flows until the house gets back up to 70...

    The service manual clearly states that "The control module controls the indoor blower. The blower starts approx. 45 seconds after ignition. The FAN-OFF period is approx. 100 seconds from the interruption of gas flow" and elsewhere "The indoor blower motor will continue to run for the fan off period (fixed at 100 seconds), then will be de-energized by the control module."

    My initial thought was that the thermal limit switch may have gone bad. In a big foul up, I tried to replace it, but ordered the switch for the UE080A936K0, rather than the UE060A936K0. I noticed the error after I replaced the switches, and the unit ran exactly the same, I switched them back, and nothing changed. I'm not sure what that means...

    My second conclusion is that the control board has gone bad. It is a White-Rodgers 50A50-571 (CNT2181), (which I believe has been discontinued and replaced by the White-Rodgers 50A55-486-04 (CNT3797)). I don't have a multi-meter, so I just observed the self-diagnosing light which seemed to be normal. It blinked slowly while the unit was off, and when the call for heat came, the blinking increased. All of this matched the label on the control.

    I just wanted to see if there was a seemingly obvious answer besides the control board that I can check easily, before I replace it without cause.

    Thanks for your time.

  • #2
    Sounds like your relay on the control board is not working right. If the board has turned off on hi limit than that can make the blower run until it resets. You would have to check that with tester. Later paul

    Comment


    • #3
      Read the White-Rodgers instructions for a TRANE Gas Furnace

      White-Rodgers has printed instructions for their 50A65-8xx and 50A55-8xx furnace control boards. I suggest you go to their website and download the PDF. It states specifically that TRANE Gas Furnaces have the roll out circuit by-passed. Why? Because a TRANE gas furnace has the roll out switches wired in series with the High Temperature Cut Outs. This makes the TRANE Gas Furnace the safest gas furnace you can buy. It also makes it perfectly safe for a dishonest repairman to sabotage your TRANE gas furnace!

      All a DISHONEST technician needs to do is REMOVE the roll out by-pass wire from the 12 pin connector. That by-pass wire goes from RO1 (pin 5, second row down center) to RO2 (pin 11, bottom row center). Open the bottom access panel on your TRANE Gas Furnace. Look at your TRANE Gas Furnace. There is a Furnace Control Board in the center. The big plastic connector must have a small short wire that connects pin 5 to pin 11. If that wire is missing, the furnace control board thinks the furnace has overheated! It will turn on the fan and the fan will run constantly until that wire is replaced and the furnace control board is reset. Call an HONEST furnace repairman and ask them to replace that wire. It should cost you around $6 for the jumper wire plus the service call fee.

      DO NOT USE A JUMPER WIRE ON ANY BRAND OF FURNACE EXCEPT A TRANE. Other gas furnaces actually use the roll out circuit. If you by-pass the roll out circuit on another brand of furnace YOUR FURNACE COULD OVERHEAT. YOUR HOUSE COULD CATCH FIRE IF THAT HAPPENS. You could be seriously injured or killed.
      Last edited by Birds of Fire; 11-19-2013, 08:43 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        old post

        posting is dated 2010. you think anyone is gonna read this?

        Comment


        • #5
          Google has this thread listed as their 5th highest hit for this problem

          YES! I do believe people will read this. YOU DID, within hours of my posting it. I searched Google for this problem and this answer thread was on the first page of results.

          Comment


          • #6
            thread

            yes I did. my job as moderator requires me to read any posting. if its out of date I delete it.
            this forum has been online for ten years.

            Comment

            Working...
            X