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  • No heat...please help!

    I have a ~10 year old goodman air handler and compressor (model is unknown since the tag is no longer readable). Last summer the A/C stopped working completely, but the fan was still working, and I eventually tracked the problem to the compressor capacitor which was causing the unit to overheat since the fan wasn't cooling the coils. I replaced the cap and got it working and then the blower motor in the air handler went out the next day. So I replaced it with a 3/4 hp 3-speed motor from Grainger along with a matching capacitor for it and wired it for medium speed. Evertyhing was working great until about a week ago when my heater stopped working completely. I brought in a tech and he said the time delay relays were bad and that is why the blower wasn't working anymore. He also stated the parts were no longer available and he was going to have to replace the entire heating strip/relay assembly for a cost of $700. I did a little homework and found a local shop that stocked the blower time delay relay and the main relay for a total cost of $54. I hooked everything back up and all was well....for a few days. I now have a sporadic problem with the blower not coming on again. If I sit at the unit with the side panel off, I can hear the relays clicking and feel the heat strips come on, but no fan. I can even hear the whining noise at the fan motor so I know it is getting power but it will not turn on. Then, a few minutes later, the fan kicks on and everthing works again. Last night the same thing happened. I woke up this morning and it was 61 degrees in my house! I climbed in the attic and I could feel the heat strips and hear the relays clicking and even heard the motor whine but no air movement. I am at a loss becuase when I turn on the t-stat for A/C mode, the compressor kicks on but the fan never comes on either. The fan moves freely and there is no burning smell when I am at the unit. What is going on?

  • #2
    Have you tried turning the fan on at the thermostat?
    Is it beer thirty??

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by $$$pit View Post
      I have a ~10 year old goodman air handler and compressor (model is unknown since the tag is no longer readable). Last summer the A/C stopped working completely, but the fan was still working, and I eventually tracked the problem to the compressor capacitor which was causing the unit to overheat since the fan wasn't cooling the coils. I replaced the cap and got it working and then the blower motor in the air handler went out the next day. So I replaced it with a 3/4 hp 3-speed motor from Grainger along with a matching capacitor for it and wired it for medium speed. Evertyhing was working great until about a week ago when my heater stopped working completely. I brought in a tech and he said the time delay relays were bad and that is why the blower wasn't working anymore. He also stated the parts were no longer available and he was going to have to replace the entire heating strip/relay assembly for a cost of $700. I did a little homework and found a local shop that stocked the blower time delay relay and the main relay for a total cost of $54. I hooked everything back up and all was well....for a few days. I now have a sporadic problem with the blower not coming on again. If I sit at the unit with the side panel off, I can hear the relays clicking and feel the heat strips come on, but no fan. I can even hear the whining noise at the fan motor so I know it is getting power but it will not turn on. Then, a few minutes later, the fan kicks on and everthing works again. Last night the same thing happened. I woke up this morning and it was 61 degrees in my house! I climbed in the attic and I could feel the heat strips and hear the relays clicking and even heard the motor whine but no air movement. I am at a loss becuase when I turn on the t-stat for A/C mode, the compressor kicks on but the fan never comes on either. The fan moves freely and there is no burning smell when I am at the unit. What is going on?
      Sounds to me like you start capacitor is bad A 220 motor has two equal
      winding so if the capacitor is bad the motor will just hum, it needs that start
      capacitor to get it going. Later Paul

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      • #4
        I am starting to think the capacitor is bad. It doesn't have a start capacitor but it does have a run cap. They are cheap enough to replace so I will try that. Any other ideas?

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        • #5
          Also, putting the t-stat to the on position used to turn the fan on a couple of days ago but now I get nothing. This is why I am thinking its the cap. I just don't understand why it is bad...it's not bulging and it is fairly new!

          Is there any way to jump the fan motor to make sure it is still good?

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, there is a way if it is a start cap, but it might hurt..
            Is it beer thirty??

            Comment


            • #7
              After doing some research, I found the heater is supposed to energize the fan in low speed and the ac in medium or high. I this right?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by $$$pit View Post
                After doing some research, I found the heater is supposed to energize the fan in low speed and the ac in medium or high. I this right?
                Very well could be depending on your controls. Takes less to push hot air.
                Is it beer thirty??

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by $$$pit View Post
                  Also, putting the t-stat to the on position used to turn the fan on a couple of days ago but now I get nothing. This is why I am thinking its the cap. I just don't understand why it is bad...it's not bulging and it is fairly new!

                  Is there any way to jump the fan motor to make sure it is still good?
                  They might call your cap. a run, but i think it is a start cap. Take the blower door off so you can get your hands on the blower wheel. start up the unit and when you hear the relay make and the motor starts to hum, spin the blower wheel as fast as you can in the right direction and see if it will go. If it does then it is your cap. that is bad. Make sure you are getting 220 volts to the motor.
                  Your unit has several speeds so it can be matched to your home and your duct system and the size of you air con. We do use a lower speed for heating than we do for cooling. We take temperature reading on both sides of the coil to select the right blower speeds for both heating and cooling. Later Paul

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by paul52446m View Post
                    They might call your cap. a run, but i think it is a start cap. Take the blower door off so you can get your hands on the blower wheel. start up the unit and when you hear the relay make and the motor starts to hum, spin the blower wheel as fast as you can in the right direction and see if it will go. If it does then it is your cap. that is bad. Make sure you are getting 220 volts to the motor.
                    Your unit has several speeds so it can be matched to your home and your duct system and the size of you air con. We do use a lower speed for heating than we do for cooling. We take temperature reading on both sides of the coil to select the right blower speeds for both heating and cooling. Later Paul
                    I was avoiding telling him to do that, guess i'm chicken..
                    Is it beer thirty??

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