I was wondering if anyone knew when / how to shut out the compressor in heat pump mode (I have electric backup). The system is heating the house (1500sqft / one floor / southern Delaware) to 68 degrees without drop to Auxiliary into the low 20's. However, the heat pump is running continuously from the low 20's on down (and basically noticeable longer below 32 degrees... the balance point at full rating is supposedly 37 degrees).
The reason that I ask is that (even without doing the math), I know that the heat pump is still working alone when it is costing more to operate than electric alone. Say at 22 degrees, the electric runs (aux) for about two minutes 6 times an hour by itself, in the same conditions when the heat pump is running continuously by itself. The electric strips (both at the same time) is 15.36KW/h and the heat pump, I believe is 3.6KW/h. The heat pump stops cycling in the low 20's and just runs (producing heat the entire time, albeit progressively more expensive). I'm not sure if I'm figuring it out right, but this would suggest that the heat strips will hit the equivalent of a 15.36KW/h in 6 hours, where the heat pump will hit the equivalent of a 15.36KW/h (heat strip equivalent) in 4.27 hours. So even though the heat pump is still doing it's job, it's costing money at the lower temperatures. To add insult to injury, below 17 degrees the aux heat is kicking in regularly with the heat pump basically running around the clock at the same time. This is the standard Trane installation scheme.
Trane just want's to talk about hybrids under 32 degrees. But there is usuable heat generation under 32 degrees. We seem to have alot of time in the heat pump grey zone here (still working well, but under balance point). I'm just not clear on where to cut it off (or if I can). Like use an external sensor and cut off the compressor at 25 degrees (for example).
Even running in the standard Trane configuration mode, we have saved significantly in the last year over our old heating (propane) and electric A/C 2 Ton central Rheem system (10 years old).
Any ideas?
The reason that I ask is that (even without doing the math), I know that the heat pump is still working alone when it is costing more to operate than electric alone. Say at 22 degrees, the electric runs (aux) for about two minutes 6 times an hour by itself, in the same conditions when the heat pump is running continuously by itself. The electric strips (both at the same time) is 15.36KW/h and the heat pump, I believe is 3.6KW/h. The heat pump stops cycling in the low 20's and just runs (producing heat the entire time, albeit progressively more expensive). I'm not sure if I'm figuring it out right, but this would suggest that the heat strips will hit the equivalent of a 15.36KW/h in 6 hours, where the heat pump will hit the equivalent of a 15.36KW/h (heat strip equivalent) in 4.27 hours. So even though the heat pump is still doing it's job, it's costing money at the lower temperatures. To add insult to injury, below 17 degrees the aux heat is kicking in regularly with the heat pump basically running around the clock at the same time. This is the standard Trane installation scheme.
Trane just want's to talk about hybrids under 32 degrees. But there is usuable heat generation under 32 degrees. We seem to have alot of time in the heat pump grey zone here (still working well, but under balance point). I'm just not clear on where to cut it off (or if I can). Like use an external sensor and cut off the compressor at 25 degrees (for example).
Even running in the standard Trane configuration mode, we have saved significantly in the last year over our old heating (propane) and electric A/C 2 Ton central Rheem system (10 years old).
Any ideas?
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