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  • #16
    Originally posted by paul52446m View Post
    I have read all your post, the reason the water temp at the drain is so low is because you water if flowing so slow that the temp. drops way down on the return at the bottom of the boiler. You should never turn you limit above 210
    degrees. The normal setting is 180. You said at one point you had the limit set at 240. at 240 you would be flashing off to steam inside the boiler and that is why your pipes were banging. that 007 new pump does not compare to the B&G
    that you had. i do not think you are moving enough water to heat the house.
    Paul
    I was mistaken when I said 240; I meant 220. After I installed the B&G pump I set it back to 180.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by paul52446m View Post
      I looked over your pic. You said you only had a temp gage on your return line.
      The line coming out of the top of the boiler on the left rear corner is the feed line leaving the boiler. The return line is the line that the pump is on in the side of the boiler. Check the pump and see if the arrow on the back side of the pump
      is pointing down so it is pumping into the boiler. If you are not flowing the water
      through the boiler the right way it will not be going through all the sections and will not heat much. If you are running the water the wrong way through the zone valves it will make them hammer every time they close.
      You are not getting this job inspected are you ? If you are i will tell you other things that are to code. Later Paul
      Now I really feel foolish. I went out and looked at it and yes, the Taco pump was pumping the wrong way; not sure why I thought the output was on the low side. In any case, I prefer the B&G pump so I'm glad I changed it. I guess this explains why the system was not heating properly and also explains the hammer.

      No, not getting inspected, but I would like to know what is not up to code so go ahead, lay it on me, I'll fix it.

      Thanks for your assistance Paul, you have been very helpful.
      Last edited by scottz; 01-07-2011, 01:30 AM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by paul52446m View Post
        If you are not flowing the water
        through the boiler the right way it will not be going through all the sections and will not heat much. If you are running the water the wrong way through the zone valves it will make them hammer every time they close.
        Just curious, why does it matter which way the water flows? It seems like the water would only flow through the zones with an open zone valve, regardless the direction that it is moving. I think I remember a drawing in the Hydrotherm manaul showing the pump on either side, but I could be wrong. To late to worry about it now; the house is warm and I'm tired.

        Thanks again Paul

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        • #19
          Originally posted by scottz View Post
          Just curious, why does it matter which way the water flows? It seems like the water would only flow through the zones with an open zone valve, regardless the direction that it is moving. I think I remember a drawing in the Hydrotherm manaul showing the pump on either side, but I could be wrong. To late to worry about it now; the house is warm and I'm tired.

          Thanks again Paul
          Honeywell zone valves have a spring to close them when they are DE-energize.
          So they elect open spring close. To close slow the have to close against the water flow. If the close with the water flow , the flow slams them close.
          There is suppose to be a stop valve between the expansion tank and air eliminator so it would be easy to change the tank.
          You can not have a main line stop valve between the boiler and its safety devices like low water cut off back up limit, and tank.
          If you are going to have a main line stop valve on the return then code says
          put one on the supply.
          On the supply ,just above the boiler and before the stop valve, code says a low water cut off and a strap on back up limit.
          Back up limit is set higher so it will turn off boiler if you main limit fail.
          The low water cut off is there so if you have a bad leak it will turn off boiler before it runs out of water. Firing a dry boiler will crack all the section in the boiler. I am glad to hear you have heat now. Some times it takes a while to get enough info so i can tell what going on.

          You would have to see how the water ways are on the inside of the boiler to under stand why it makes a difference on which way it flows, Hooked up wrong , water will only flow through one section. If you had put as many boilers together as i have in the last 40 years, you would know them very well. Later Paul
          PS not code , but when you install a gate stop valve on a horizontal pipe put the valve and handle on a horizontal, if the handle is up or down like you have it, it will let any particles flowing in the water settle out in the valve and plug it up.
          Last edited by paul52446m; 01-07-2011, 10:10 AM.

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          • #20
            I'll look these over, thank you very much.

            Scott

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            • #21
              Originally posted by scottz View Post
              I'll look these over, thank you very much.

              Scott
              Glad to help, stay warm. Paul

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