Monitor 441 Heater

[HayZee518]

if its computer board related I can't help you. all the resistors are quarter watt rated. the control circuit is 24 volts and 5 volts dc. there are four diodes used for the 5 volts and a bridge rectifier for the 24 vdc. the board uses 120 volts, 24 vdc and 5 vdc on it. the ICs are all soldered in - no sockets. TRISTAN is the manufacturer for the solenoid pump and its matched controller.

[cbfiv]

help

I have 2 monitor 41's and a lifter pump in the system. I just returned home after months and turned on the heat for the first time since spring. One heater and the pump work fine. The other one gives the same problem evryone else lists. I read all the posts and followed all the instructions, cleaning the fuel strainer - it looked fine anyway, opened the the burner chamber & vacumed everything and wiped the rod - things didn't look so bad in there either. The solenoid pump feels like it is working. I hate calling for service as it is very expensive here and they can not get over for weeks. On top of it all, my wife will be home in a couple of days. Good thing I came early to open the house. Any and all help is greatly apretiated. Chuck

[HayZee518]

who was the distributor? nelson & small?

[catamount]

yes, that was one of my cheks you should have performed - remove the flamerod and clean the soot off it. could have saved yourself 43 bucks! what he charge you for the gasket? - $16.50?

$10 for a new burner gasket and flame rod gasket. Not gonna argue with the man, he got me heat again.

Now I know... and next time will save the bucks.

[HayZee518]

yes, that was one of my cheks you should have performed - remove the flamerod and clean the soot off it. could have saved yourself 43 bucks! what he charge you for the gasket? - $16.50?

[catamount]

Just follow the helps I post. Shouldn't be a problem unless the whole computer microprocessor is shot. All the parts are soldered in and very difficult to unsolder without causing a solder bridge. If it worked before then it should work again.

Well I found out that my local hardware store has a MPI expert. For $43 I was out the door with my 422 working again and a new gasket. I also watched him clean it so I know what to do next time; it seemed like a bargain.

He said my fuel rod was touching the side via a small slice of carbon. He mentioned that this was the most common cause of the flashing burner lights.

[HayZee518]

Just follow the helps I post. Shouldn't be a problem unless the whole computer microprocessor is shot. All the parts are soldered in and very difficult to unsolder without causing a solder bridge. If it worked before then it should work again.

[catamount]

Thank you!

Just another Monitor heater owner chiming in to say Thank You for the help so far. I live in Vermont and it's cold up here without heat!

My heater worked great until about a week ago when it would randomly stop the burning and flash the burner status lights. I've cleaned the filter and assume something in the pot is dirty. I guess I'll try my hand at cleaning this thing.

This site is about 100003 times more helpful than "Al's Heating".

With the maintenance this thing requires, though, I miss my Rinnai.

[teehar]

www dot mcmaster dot com - page 3372 stock 8813K11 - runs about 6 bucks for 1 inch wide 25 foot long. much, much cheaper than mpi gasket product which goes for $16.50 for a gasket. a replacement glass is made of boro silicate. again a 1 inch wide piece by 3 inches is about 4 bucks. mpi wants 45 bucks for a glass piece. oh by the way the burner head, that stainless steel affair that looks like an inverted soup bowl costs $72.50.

Thanks a bushel HayZee518!!

[HayZee518]

www dot mcmaster dot com - page 3372 stock 8813K11 - runs about 6 bucks for 1 inch wide 25 foot long. much, much cheaper than mpi gasket product which goes for $16.50 for a gasket. a replacement glass is made of boro silicate. again a 1 inch wide piece by 3 inches is about 4 bucks. mpi wants 45 bucks for a glass piece. oh by the way the burner head, that stainless steel affair that looks like an inverted soup bowl costs $72.50.

[teehar]

Arne - I have a monitor 41 which is one series BELOW the 441. I do all my servicing on the heater. I have a pdf file for the 441 which I could email to you. as far as a repair manual, you'll never get one. NO ONE on this green earth will EVER sell you one. I tried to get one through MPI but since I'm not an authorized dealer, no way. Some replacement gaskets I was able to get from mc master- carr industrial supply and a piece of boro-silicate glass for the view port.

Don't mean to jump in on everyone's thread but kind of hated to start a new one to.

Anyway thanks for all the valuable info on the Monitor heaters HayZee518.

My 441 was acting up a week or so ago and I decided to tackle it on my own.The burner would come on then in just a minute or so go back out.Wouldn't get far enough into the heat cycle for the fan to come on.Then the dreaded flashing lights would start.So I replaced the outside filter,cleaned the internal filter and it appeared that it was getting plenty of oil.The problem still persisted.Finally I broke down and took the grill and top cover off to see what makes it tick.lol I noticed I could barely see a flame through the window so I decided to take it out.The window was completely black and inside the burner chamber was full of soot.Next I decided to remove the plate that covers the burner.I took a vacum cleaner and sucked all that mess out.I also cleaned the inside as best I could with an old cloth.I noticed the gasket on both the window and chamber covers was very crumbly.I just pieced it back together and screwed everything back up tight.Now the 441 is working great but every once in awhile I get a whiff of exhaust.I didn't have this problem last year and I'm sure it's because of the gaskets needing replaced.

I have searched all over the internet and can't find what I'm looking for.I noticed you mentioned in your post mc master- carr industrial.Do they have a web page?Also what type of gasket would you recommend I get?

Thanks!

[MEWelding.com]

Excellent service description...

the way you do the job -- is -- unplug the unit, take the front panel off. unfasten the through the wall inlet/exhaust tube and move the heater to where you can work on it. remove the flex line on the blower outside the heater unit. unfasten the rubber elbow inside the unit. unscrew all the screws that hold the fan in the unit. remove the screws that hold the impeller cover and pull off the impeller - this has a left hand thread. make a diagram of how the impeller goes on taking into account the spacers. unscrew the motor and put back together reverse order.
two wires go to the motor, the other two go to the damper solenoid.

You are an asset to this site and monitor owners everywhere. Thanks again.

[HayZee518]

the way you do the job -- is -- unplug the unit, take the front panel off. unfasten the through the wall inlet/exhaust tube and move the heater to where you can work on it. remove the flex line on the blower outside the heater unit. unfasten the rubber elbow inside the unit. unscrew all the screws that hold the fan in the unit. remove the screws that hold the impeller cover and pull off the impeller - this has a left hand thread. make a diagram of how the impeller goes on taking into account the spacers. unscrew the motor and put back together reverse order.
two wires go to the motor, the other two go to the damper solenoid.

[MEWelding.com]

I thought that would be the case.

There are 4 wires that connect to the fan, 2 of which are not on a single plastic connector. Does it matter in which position these two wires go? Positive / negative?

[HayZee518]

then you need to replace the fan motor - it costs around $146 last time I bought one.