Monitor 2400 issues

[CHBinAsheville]

I'm new here and have a Monitor 2400 with the error 13 code. I haven't cleaned the fuel strainer yet but I'm presented with a weird issue I haven't seen any where on the net. The heater starts up and runs but as soon as the "burn" light comes on there is a knocking noise from the, I don't know what it is, I think fuel pump/strainer mechanism. It knocks for a few minutes and then shuts down and gives the error 13 code. I thought this thing was gravity fed but I don't know. I will replace the out side tank filter and clean the stainer tomorrow but if any one else has ever heard of this I would greatly appreciate your help.

Thanks,
Curt

[bbrown04]

Monitor 2400, E13, similar issue, new here as well

I just joined tonight. I have been reading the threads on this website and find this one to be the most imformative. I cannot seem to clear the E13 either. I replaced my tank filter, added "Water Out" to the tank, drained and cleaned the pickup filter. THe until definetly starts burning, as i can feel heat coming out the vent pipe outside and the unit gets hot. However, it will not stay lit and i do not notice the "blue" flame anymore like i did in the years past. It's 4 years old and this is the 1st year i've had trouble. I disconnected the copper fuel line and put it in a cup and then turned on the unit. Not sure how much fuel should come out, but it did "bubble" the fuel into the cup. I also noticed it does light and have an orange flame in the burner, but it usaully shuts off within minutes and displays the "E13" alarm. Any advise, please help. Is is typical to have problems with the flame sensor? I've probably put 450 gallons of fuel through it in 4 years at my camp. I haven't ran it at all during the last two winters, only in the fall and spring (very little).

[tubby423]

I had the same problem earlier today with the E13. The knocking you describe, I believe, is your fuel pump. Mine does that too. ? I guess (hope) it's not an issue.... I changed the fuel filter at the outside tank, bled the water, cleaned the 2 filters in the sump tank on the heater, unplugged it, plugged it back in and pushed the red button.......... E14. After that we opened up the combustion chamber and cleaned all of the soot out of there. It was filthy!!! It seems to be working now. It's been running for about an hour and a half. That's a new record! It had been shutting down anywhere between 2 and 30 minutes or so. I'm really hoping it just needed a good cleaning.
Best of luck!

[bbrown04]

cleaning?

Dumb question, sorry: when you say the chamber, are you referring to where the burner is? If so, did you remove the large panel around the sight-glass pannel to do so? Did you have a spare gasket set to replace and where can i get them. Thanks for any info!

ALso you mentioned "both" filters on the sump tank? Not the sub tank below the fuel pump inside the unit, correct?

[HayZee518]

there is only one stainless filter in the sump tank where the fuel comes in. a very small opening is at the far end of the chamber. fuel is supposed to go up through the needle valve seat through a white plastic elbow and into the sump where the solenoid pump has a recess. the pump has a fine mesh filter. use gumout to clean both these filters. take a look in the sump tank itself for any brown slimy gunk. this needs to be cleaned out. it is emulsified kero and water.

[tubby423]

When I say the "chamber", yes, I mean where the burner is located. To access this we took off the front panel, the top cover and then there is another front cover to remove. THEN you can take the round top plate off of the combustion chamber. There are lots of screws involved in this process.....don't lose them! Be careful with the gasket of the round cover if you don't have a spare. We were able to get ours off intact, but they can be kind of fragile. We didn't take anything off the side/front of the combustion chamber where the window is located. I see that there are pieces here you could remove, but we came in from the top.
Hope that helps!

[HayZee518]

look through several of my postings. there's one that has mcmaster-carr stock numbers for the ceramic fiber gasket material. this way should you break a gasket you'll have a replacement. the gasket material is a woven white ceramic. it comes about a half inch thick that you can peel down to the thickness you need.

[bbrown04]

Will do, thank you very much for the information. Can you tell me a little more about the fine mesh filter at the pump? Do i remove the top of the sump or the pump itself?

Thanks, great stuff here!

[HayZee518]

Turn off power to the heater. Unplug the heater. Remove the front piece. Unscrew the brass gland nut on top of the pump. Remove the two spade terminals off the pump. Remove two philips screws from the pump to top plate. Pull out the pump. The body of the pump is plastic. Look at the bottom. Just spray gumout on this filter and shake loose. Don't take the pump apart - you'll regret doing that.

[bbrown04]

Got it, thanks! Another dumb quesiton, i am running heating oil #1. SHould i be running kerosene instead?

[HayZee518]

manufacturer says #1 kerosene white or dyed. No biodiesel, No diesel, No regular home heating oil!
the outside tank's fuel outlet should be two inches above the inlet to the house. if you have a heater on a second floor then a high lift kero pump is needed. toyostove has one such lift pump.
Also, I might add, when you set up your outside tank, angle it slightly away from the outlet pipe so any condensate water won't go into the fuel line. it'll all be trapped at the far end.

[CHBinAsheville]

Add to my orignal post

Thanks for all of the help! I took the sump cover off and could not believe all the rust and fungo mungo in there. The float thing(looks like what I found in my lawn mower carb) is very sticky too. Should I purchase a new sump at this point? It really looks bad in there

[HayZee518]

Naw don't bother - remove the sump and buy a coupla cans of GUMOUT. Get some Q tips as well - the fuel path is from the sump, through the front hole, up through the needle valve, to the white plastic elbow, then down into the pump recess. clean the filter on the bottom of the pump. remove the whole fuel cappillary and check for a carbon build up in the brass tube that goes in the combustion pot. clean it out with a 1/8" drill with your fingers. take the insulation off a four foot length of telephone wire, double up on it and run it through the length of the cappillary.