Help selecting a new electric water heater

[Adam/]

So its getting about time for getting a replacement water heater based on time. When we built the house in 1990 I installed a Kenmore Elite rotorswirl 55gal electric tank. It had a 3800 watt upper element and a 5500 watt lower element and dual anode rods. Daig 22.5" and height of 62". In 2008 while I did not notice any change in operation there was getting to be a lot of rust around the upper element and just below it so I replaced it with the same model. So based on time I started to shop for another Kenmore just to find out they are no more! So now I am looking for a replacement with the same features and specs. What I am finding out there are a lot of "Smart" and WiFi enabled water heaters which is something we have no interest in having as we don't use wifi or a smart phone still us our inexpensive dependable land line. Thanks in advance for any brand/model suggestions.

[TinyTool]

Hi!

Kenmore water heaters were mostly made by either A.O. Smith or Rheem, so if you liked your old one, you can still get something very similar under those names. You might also check models from Bradford White or Lochinvar, as they make good, straightforward electric units without Wi-Fi or “smart” controls.

Here are some similar options you can look into:

• AO Smith Signature 100 (55-gal) – basic electric, dual elements, ceramic tank protection
• AO Smith ProLine Standard (55-gal) – dual stainless-steel elements, glass lining, self-cleaning
• Rheem Professional-Classic (55-gal) – simple controls, dual elements, good anode protection
• Lochinvar Energy-Saver (55-gal) – durable anode, compact design, no smart features

I’d recommend going through recent reviews and comparing specs online to see which one matches your needs and budget the best. That way you’ll get something close to your old Kenmore without paying for features you don’t want.

[Adam/]

Thank you for your informative reply. I just read online that Kenmore was built by State Water heaters which is a division of AO Smith. Was a pretty interesting read. I will look into the brand/models you posted about.

[TinyTool]

You’re welcome. Yes, that’s right, State is a division of A.O. Smith. You’ll be in familiar territory with either A.O. Smith or State-branded models, and they should offer similar quality to what you’ve had.

[Adam/]

A little different direction here, I had a thought that since my water heater is not currently having a problem that I have noticed or can see that I would pull the anode rod out and replace it to see if I could get it to go even longer. I did not know they were replaceable but now that I do I thought since they are pretty cheap I would get a factory one and install it. Any thoughts? Is this going to go sideways on me? How stuck will it be after all this time, I do have a real long cheater bar and/or a 1/2" impact gun....

[TinyTool]

That's a solid idea. Replacing the anode rod is one of the best ways to extend the life of a water heater, especially if it's not showing any signs of failure yet. Since yours has been in service since 2008, there's a good chance the anode is mostly or completely depleted by now.

A few tips before you get started:

• It might be stuck pretty well. After that many years, it's common for the rod to seize due to corrosion or mineral buildup. Your impact gun or a long cheater bar can definitely help, but be careful not to twist or stress the tank. It helps to have someone hold or brace the tank so it doesn't move while you're applying torque. Most anode rods require a 1-1/16 inch socket for removal, so make sure you have the right size on hand.
• Drain about 10 to 15 gallons from the tank before removing the rod. That will lower the water level enough so it doesn't spill over when you pull the rod out. Also be sure to shut off power to the heater before draining.
• Most anode rods are around 3 to 4 feet long, so check your overhead clearance. If space is tight, a flexible or segmented anode rod is a good alternative for low-clearance installs.
• Thread size is usually 3/4 inch NPT, but it's a good idea to verify your model before ordering a replacement. A quality magnesium or aluminum rod is ideal, or go with an OEM part if you can find one.

Once you get it out, you’ll know right away if it needed replacement. If all that's left is the core wire or it's heavily pitted, it was definitely time. A new rod can slow internal corrosion and potentially add several more years of life to the tank.

It's a worthwhile project if the heater is still working fine. Just be prepared for the rod to put up a fight coming out. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[Adam/]

First off Thank You TinyTool for your helpful replies.

Ok its done. Should of done it 4yrs ago but never gave it a thought until I saw that episode of This Old House!



Got to say I was nervous about doing this as I expected something to not go well disturbing parts that have not been touched in 10yrs but so far so good. Its been an hour and I see not leaks from the anode, fill/supply lines, drain valve or blow off valve! Just turned on the power so it will be a little while before I can check for hot water. This water heater has the normal rod and a second one that is part of the hot water outlet. I only replaced one but while it was out I did take my scope and look inside at the other one and it was a good 95% gone, should I replace it too or will just the one be good enough. Unlike the one I replaced which was appox 36" long its only 16"

[TinyTool]

You're very welcome, and great job replacing the anode rod. It’s clear that your anode rod has done a good job protecting your tank since it’s corroded so much.

Since the second anode rod in the hot water outlet is about 95% gone, it’s definitely a good idea to replace that one too. Both rods help protect different parts of the tank, so having two fresh ones will give you better overall protection and help your water heater last longer.

The shorter 16-inch rod might be easier to replace than the longer one you just did, but it can depend on how accessible it is. Since you already have the tools out and some experience now, it makes sense to go ahead and replace it while you can.

[Adam/]

Kinda figure I should do both. I have to order the second one online, looks like it would be here next week. Kinda surprised at the price being half the length( they list it as a secondary rod so that must be why its so much shorter then the other one) but over twice the price! I will have to pull the water heater out again as its located in an old root cellar under the house that I poured a floor into so now it has only a 6' ceiling so only 10" clearance. It should go a lot faster as now I know how to remove it.

[TinyTool]

That sounds like a good plan, and it's great that you're handling this yourself, especially given the tight space and age of the setup. It is a bit surprising that the shorter secondary rod costs more, but that's usually because it's a more specialized part. Not all water heaters have a second anode in the hot water outlet, so the parts tend to be less common and sometimes priced higher.

Replacing it is definitely worth it, though. With both anode rods fresh, you'll get much better corrosion protection across the entire tank, which could extend the life of the water heater by several more years. The secondary anode in the hot water outlet helps protect the upper portion of the tank where corrosion is more likely.

Now that you've done it once, the second time should go much quicker. Just remember to shut off the power, drain enough water to get below the anode level, and use the same precautions as before.

Let us know how the second swap goes.

[Adam/]

Ok I got the rod installed. This one came out much harder as it took a 7' cheater bar and my wife to operate the bar while I held the heater in place. It was past time for this one as well.



Glad to have this done but unfortunately the wife says the washer is not spin drying the clothes so I am off to check the wash machine......

[TinyTool]

Nice work getting that second rod out. From the photo, it definitely looks like it was overdue for replacement. Sounds like it put up a serious fight, but good thing you had help and the right tools.

With both anodes replaced, your tank should be in great shape for the next few years. Hopefully the washer turns out to be a quick fix. Let us know how that goes.