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Water Pipe Size OD 1.325"

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  • #16
    No offense taken. I just don't like all the chemicals they add to the water in the name of health and beauty.

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    • #17
      Ha, ok, so back to my original questions. My incoming main looks to be a 1" pipe (it's 1.327" outside diameter) and my incoming hot water pipe is 3/4" (.888 -- that's 3/4" right?). Are those assumptions correct? I measured them with a digital caliper.

      Thanks!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by outomyelement View Post
        Ha, ok, so back to my original questions. My incoming main looks to be a 1" pipe (it's 1.327" outside diameter) and my incoming hot water pipe is 3/4" (.888 -- that's 3/4" right?). Are those assumptions correct? I measured them with a digital caliper.

        Thanks!
        I have never miked the OD. of the pipe , but you have a large pipe of 3/4" and a small pipe of 1/2" The OD size would depend on what the pipe is, like # 40 or thicker. Copper pipe you have K--L-- Or M. Paul

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        • #19
          why is the O.D. of your pipes of sooo much consequence? Hot water feeds off your heater normally are 3/4 I.D. for a standard sized home. 1/2 inch on a small, limited distance home from heater to the bath and kitchen taps. If you find the O.D. of your pipes, what's that gonna accomplish?
          Pipes are schedule 40 and 80, copper, what Paul said above.

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          • #20
            Pipe is defined by its inside diameter,,, 1.315 OD is the ASTM standard for 1" pipe

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            • #21
              Originally posted by LazyPup View Post
              Pipe is defined by its inside diameter,,, 1.315 OD is the ASTM standard for 1" pipe
              WOW, it's been a long time Lazypup. I was reading one of your "sticky's" yesterday and wondering where you went.
              Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
              Every day is a learning day.

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              • #22
                LazyPup

                Welcome back, LazyPup!! We missed you.....

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                • #23
                  Let me begin with your original question: PIPE SIZE

                  In the plumbing industry PIPE is measured by its inside diameter (ID) and TUBING is measured by its Outside Diameter (OD), however you will always see it listed as a "nominal dimension". The reason is that even though a pipe is defined by its ID the actual size will very slightly depending upon the thickness of the pipe wall.

                  Per ASTM (American Society of Testing & Materials) specifications Iron pipe, (both galvanized & black pipe), Brass Pipe & PVC pipe are made to the IPS standard (iron pipe standard) and the dimensions commonly found in residential construction will be 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" & 2".

                  People commonly think of the word "Schedule" in regards to a time schedule, such as a bus schedule, train schedule or work schedule, but the word "Schedule" actually means "a published list".

                  The ASTM(American Society for Testing & Materials) has publised a list of pipe dimensions and the associated maximum working pressure permitted for each wall thickness however if they were to make the pipe with an exact internal size, then add the wall thickness we would need a different set of threading dies for each wall thickness. In order to standardize the tools and fittings the ASTM has selected one thickness to be the standard, so that size will have the exact ID + the wall thickness. Once they determined the OD of that pipe, that became the standard OD for all pipes of that dimension and if the wall is thicker the difference is made by slightly reducing the ID of the pipe. As a result, the pipes are listed as a nominal size, because even though PIPE is measured by its ID, the actual ID will vary slightly, depending upon the thickness of the pipe wall.

                  In residential construction all the iron pipe, Brass Pipe, PVC pipe & ABS pipe will be made to the ASTM schedule 40 standard with the exception of Rigid Metal Electrical Conduit which is schedule 20 pipe.

                  The standard OD is:
                  2" pipe...........2.375" OD
                  1-1/2" pipe.....1.900
                  1-1/4" pipe.....1.660"OD
                  1" pipe...........1.315" OD
                  3/4"pipe.........1.050" OD
                  1/2" pipe........0.840"

                  WATER TESTING-
                  I have to agree with the others in regards to testing your water. Every water condition requires a different method of treatment or filtering and contrary to what some advertisers would like you to believe, there really is no effective "one size fits all here".

                  Before you begin spending good money after bad trying to find the correct filter for your water, you need to begin by finding out what the quality of your water is, and what you may want to filter out.

                  A WORD OF CAUTION HERE. All companies that make water treatment equipment advertise that they will test your water, but are they really interested in giving you a comprehensive analysis or are they attempting to create a lead for a high pressure salesmen to sell you some rather expensive equipment?

                  All municipal water suppliers are required by law to test their water numerous times a day so they all have an inhouse water testing lab. In most communities you can contact the water supplier directly or call your local board of health and they will tell you the procedure to bring a sample of your water in for testing. In some regions they ask you to come in a pay a very nominal fee (typically $20) and they will give your a plastic sample bottle to collect and return your sample for testing. If you live outside the municipality and have your own well they will still perform the test for you. After you turn the sample in it usually takes about 5 to 7 days for them to test the water and mail you a complete analysis, and the best part is, you won't be bothered with flim flam salespeople calling or coming by your house to sell you a system.

                  I will give you a little heads up. Currently their is a big trend to put in a small RO (reverse osmosis) system at the kitchen faucet to produce drinking & cooking water. The marketing claim is that RO water is absolutely pure water totally devoid of minerals & chemicals, which is technically correct, but is that really healthy? According to the health experts the answer here is no. Water is scientifically known as the universal solvent, which means water naturally dissolves many different minerals and chemicals, some of which are harmful, but it also contains some chemicals & minerals that are vital to our good health, by example, calcium, iodine, and potassium. Studies have shown that if we injest RO water over a long period, once that water is in our bodies it will actually absorb some of the vital minerals in our body, by example, it will absorb calcium right out of our bones. (run an online search for the "health hazards of reverse osmosis water" and see for yourself.)

                  I had to laugh at Redwords comments about bottled water actually being tap water. In the late 1980's the city of Springfield, Massachusetts was getting the major portion of their municipal water supply from deep wells about 20 miles from the city, and they received an award for having the purest water in any municipality in the USA. Once that award was published people came for miles to get jugs of their city water to take home then the city got a bright idea. To subsidize the cost of operating their water system they set up their own bottling company and bottled their city water under about 4 or 5 different trade names and shipped it all over the country. Now the funniest part of the story is, the city actually bottled some of that water in 5gal jugs and leased water coolers to ppl all over the city. Little did the ppl know that the water in those jugs was exactly the same water they had at their faucett.

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                  • #24
                    Yea guys,,,,DON'T PAY THE RANSOME,,,,I escaped....LOL

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