Anybody had to connect county water before?

[imac567]

Our county water is almost ready for connection, I'm confused about the parts I need, which dual check valve backflow prevention device is a good choice for 1" pvc pipe? And I'm looking at a Watts Governor 80 ball cock and thermal expansion relief valve to go in the back toilet, any advice on that, or am I better off with an expansion tank? One more thing, where they bored the line to the water box they installed, do I need to install another box for the check and cut-out valves?

[allynirrigation]

Backflow prevention device Water service connection

I would check with your local water purveyor building authority to determine if you require a dual check valve or a Double Check Valve assembly. In Canada you must be a licensed plumber or backflow tester in order to get a plumbing permit to install either device. A dual check valve is a non testable device and a double check valve assembly is a testable device. Both devices generally come with Female Iron Pipe Thread inlet/outlet connections, so any male adapters that are suitable for use with your water service line can be used. Again check with water purveyor/building authority for what type, size, and fittings are acceptable. Strongly recommend that all are certified for potable water use.

[LazyPup]

I am assuming you are changing from a home well system to a municipal water system. If that is so, there is a long list of code requirements and generally they require a licensed plumber to make the changeover.

First of all, there may be no cross connection between a municipal water supply and a home well system. In most jurisdictions they will require you to completely remove the well pump & pressure tank before connecting to the municipal source.

Some jurisdictions will permit you to continue using the well & pump for "Non-Potable Water" demands such as an outside hose bibb, lawn irrigation, lawn hydrant or water supply to an outbuilding where the water will be used solely for cattle & livestock. When the well is maintained for Non-potable supply all visible above grade piping & faucetts MUST BE painted bright yellow, and every faucett or outlet must have a 5"x7" metal sign that has a red backgound and the words "Non-Potable water" in bold yellow letters.

The municipal supplier and your local code enforcement authority will determine if you need a backflow preventer and if the water pressure from the municipal supplier exceeds 85psi or is likely to exceed 85psi, even for short spikes in pressure, you are required to install a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve).

Whenever a PRV or backflow preventer is installed on the main you are required to install an expansion tank on the water heater. The expansion tank MUST BE connected between the water heater & the water heater cold water shutoff valve.

You do not need to make any changes to your waterclosets.

[imac567]

As far as the well goes...

I can keep it, I just have to separate it, no special markings. The expansion tank is what I'm trying to work out now, my water heater is in the house and I'd like to put the ex. tank in the pump shed outside, I don't really want it in the house. The PRV will go in the pump shed also, I would like to install the ex. tank after the PRV and have it about 20 feet away from the water heater.
Here's what I'm looking at, I would have the meter in the box with 1" PVC line to the pump shed to a gate valve, (EDIT-then a dual check backflow preventer device), then the PRV, (put a gauge here) then the expansion tank, then to the water heater in the house. I can do the work, I've plumbed the whole house myself and the town will allow home owners to do it after a permit is issued. Just need to get the order of everything together. Thank you.

[allynirrigation]

backflow prevention device

Please ensure you completely understand what the water purveyor means by separating the two systems. You may have to install a Reduced Pressure principal Backflow Assembly (RPBA) as a property with a well (auxiliary water supply) is considered a "Severe Hazard". The RPBA is a testable backflow device consisting of two check valves with a relief valve fitted between the 1st and 2nd check valves, the device protects against both back pressure and backsiphonage. This device cannot be installed below grade as the relief valve will dump to atmosphere and must have an approved air gap between it and drain pipe or maximum flood level which ever is higher. You install it horizontally (unless specifically designed for vertical install) and should be able to install it in the pump shed, but check with the water purveyor to ensure this is what is required in your situation.

[imac567]

I added the back flow to my previous post.

Thank you, I completely forgot about that. I went back and edited the post and put it in. Okay, I'm looking at their drawing and it shows the dual check after the box, so I'm assuming I could put all of it in the pump shed. The valve, PRV, gauge and the expansion tank. I believe.

[LazyPup]

Code requires the expansion tank to be at the water heater.

[allynirrigation]

Backflow prevention device

If a Double Check Valve Assembly is all that is required then you can put it outside near the water meter in a valve box. I assume you have to trench for the new line anyway so it is not much trouble to fit the shut-off valve and DCVA in a plastic valve box. Use a brass 1" close nipple between shut-off and DCVA, both should fit in a 1419 valve box.
Have you considered using municipal poly tube as your service line? Not much difference in cost and municipal is alot more robust for underground burial. It comes in 100, 150, 300 foot rolls so no joints underground, flexible, and you can turn the water immediately (no waiting for cement to cure) do a leak check and back fill your trench. I use Philmac compression fittings/adapters which are simple to use and are approved for potable water and direct burial. Your supplier should be able to advise on fittings.