Compression Ring problem with toilet shut off valv

[sleemie]

I had to replace the shut off valve on my toilet and now it has a steady leak. I was unable to get the old compression ring off because it was too hard to pull off. I couldn't get the water shut off 100% so I was in a rush to get the new valve back on so I didn't spend too much time with trying to get the old ring off. Is there a problem with using the old compression ring? Also, I kind of squeezed the pipe out of shape a bit from squeezing on the compressin ring while trying to pull it off. What's the best way to remove the old compression ring if that's what I need to do? Also, what's the trick to getting the water shut off 100%? I turned the main shut off valve pretty tight without over doing it.

How should I proceed from here? thanx

[kactuskid]

You don't have to remove the compression fitting at all, which consist of the nut and ferral (ring). You just screw your valve into the existing fitting. Unfortuanltly now you may have scarred up and disformed the fitting enough that it won't seat properly. Try to thread it on again and then not to overtighten.

If you find it won't seal, then if you have enough pipe sticking out from the wall, you can cut off the fitting using a tubing cutter. Then install a new compression fitting and valve onto the pipe stub. Here's a link to show you some details in replacing the isolation valve. Also try to get a ball valve type iso valve 1/4 turn rather than the gate valves that will be pictured in the link. Hope this helps.

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/plumbing/plum_4.htm

[pretzelb]

You're good at finding links with good pictures kactuskid!

I had this problem too but I'm not sure I had a compression ring with the original valve. Like sleemie I could not get the existing nut off the pipe. My new valve had a nut and a brass ring. Looking the pipe, it looked like there was a brass extension that was slightly larger than the pipe that was shoved into the pipe. It flared out so the nut could not be removed.

I assumed this was an old or cheaper version of the ring that came with my new 1/4 turn valve. The first valve I replaced it all worked just fine. The second one I replace leaked the first 2 times. On the third try I used a thin layer of teflon tape and I held the new valve steady with one wrench and tightened with another wrench until very firm. I'm not sure why it worked but no drips so far.

Any idea what is sticking out of the existing pipe? Is it some kind of compression joiner or something?

[kactuskid]

No idea what that piece of joiner pipe is, most fittings that are flared are for gas piping instead of water. I usually never replace the compression fitting that's on the pipe, its usually in good shape and doesn't require replacement. Teflon tape is not necessary if the fittings are in good shape, but if the tape worked for you then that's great, sometimes that's all it takes.

[jeannot]

Had the same problem, couldn't remove the compression ring and its nut. Installed new valve on the old compression ring, but valve still oozes a little water (1 drop every 2 minutes) even when tightened very hard.

Cannot cut copper pipe and start anew, as I have only 1" sticking out of the wall before the compression ring. Cannot solder new length of pipe against compression ring, as the existing pipe end was compressed inwards,i.e. doesn't suck solder in because of a loose fit with the coupling and very difficult access to heat properly on 2 sides (see below).

To top it off, the whole schmeer is in the corner of 2 walls, with a two inch clearance between either wall and the end of the copper pipe (bless the guy who installed this).

Any ideas, short of digging into the walls? Is there a glue or epoxy type product that I could apply on the outside to eliminate the oozing (cold water, no pressure)? I also heard of compression ring pullers; do they work OK and where can they be found?

Thanx for any help.

[LazyPup]

Compression fittings are designed with a slight internal taper in the nut that shrinks the compression ring onto the tubing. Once properly set it is nearly impossible to remove.
When replacing a compression valve you simply unscrew the compression nut to release the old valve, pull the old valve off the line, then remove the new nut and compression ring from the new valve, slide the new valve on the end of the pipe and tighten up with the old nut and compression ring which are still on the pipe.

any effort to forcible remove the old nut and compression ring will surely result in distorting the tubing.

Once the tubing has been distorted out of round the only effective method is to cut it back to a point where the tubing is still good. In some cases it may now be too close to the wall and you will have to open the wall and solder on a new stub out.

Teflone tape or pipe dope should never be used in machined fittings, compression or flair type. Although occassionally you hear someone had a good result with that method, 999 times out of 1000 the tape or dope will actually introduce new problems.