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Okay, here's the thing.....switched the house over last night (finally) to the first phase of the house replumbing job. The water smells a lot like soldering paste. Much of it's gopne away after a lot of line flushing, but it's still apparent. What can I do to eliminate it? Will time take it's toll on it? The lines after the heater were easy, I just kicked the new heater on highest setting and let it run through the hot lines 'till it exhausted itself. But what about the cold lines? Or did I do something wrong initially?
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Altough the codes do not give a specific, normally i like to give about a 30 minute flush on a new system. That should be sufficient to eliminate and residue in the lines. There may be a bit of odor in the water for the first 2 hours but that will go away.
I would like to caution that you should never turn the water heater to its highest setting.
The code standard for domestic hot water is 125deg F. If the water is heated above that temperature all tubs and showers must be equipped with anti-scald valves. -
I have an anti-scald on the water heater, but temporarliy set that at max, too. You were absolutely right about it (the smell) eventually going away. It took quite a bit of 'purging', but it's running clean and clear. Thanks again, for your help and guidance.Comment
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I have been replacing all the facuets in our condo, and intially there's a risidual smell similar to old fixtures I threw out, however it seems to only last a day or two. Except in our master bath. The first few seconds of the faucet running smell horrible, not sewage but like old plumbing. It's been at least a month since I've replaced the faucets. Any ideas??Comment
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Chris,,In order to help you resolve the problem we would need some additional information.
1.What kind of pipes do you have,,Galvanized Iron,Copper, CPVC, PEX, ?
2. What is the body of the new faucetts made of, Brass, bronze, copper, plastic ??
3. Do you have a booster heater in the master bath? tank type or tankless?
4. Do you have a recirculator in the master bath?
5. Did you install new supply tubes from the angle stops to the faucetts? If so, what type of material? Plastic or plated brass?
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I'll do my best to answer your questions:
1. As far as I can tell based on the exposed pipies in the basement, copper.
2. brass
3. no
4. no
5. I replaced the supply lines from the valve to the faucet with BrasCraft engineered poly braid supply lines (for faucets).Comment
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Sight unseen I owuld guess the odor may be coming from one of two sources, either minerals or suspended gasses in the water supply or very old copper piping somewhere within the condo structure.
You could have a sample of the water tested to find out if it is coming from the water. In most communities if you contact your local Municipal Health Department they can either test the water for you, or recommend a local lab that will do the testing. Water tests are not usually very expensive.
It is possible that the odor is ooming from the copper piping. When copper pipe ages it forms a very thin greenish film on the inner wall of the pipe similar to the greenish patina you see on copper roofing or statues. While it does appear unsightly to some, and it can instill a slight odor or metalic taste in the water, it is in no means harmful. In fact, it is quite helpful. The greenish film is a slight layer of copper-sulphate which is known to be one of the most effective antibacterial agents known to man. In a sense, old copper pipe is often healtier than new. By contrast,While it has received very little public attention there is a great concern about a gelatinous mass called biofilm forming on the inner walls of synthetic pipes, PVC,CPVC or PEX. Biofilm is known to support the formation of many microbes, one of which causes leagionaires disease. Biofilm is known to form on new copper pipe, but normally in the plumbing enviroment by the time the biofilm can begin to form there is enough copper sulfate to prevent it.
You stated that the odor is present in the Master bath but not at the other faucetts throughout the house. I suspect that the master bath may be on the remote end of the run, and a master bath is a low traffic bathroom when compared to the kitchen, laundry or communally accessible bath. It is quite possible that the odor is present at the other locations but due to the amount of water consumed at those points it is constantly flushed out so as not to be as noticable.
If that were to prove to be the case, a solution would be to install a circulator in the master bath which would 1. Insure an immediate source of hot water and 2. keep the water in motion so the odor would not concentrate at that location.Comment
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Why would it show up after replacing the faucets and not before?? And is it possible that the trap could be given of the odor and that the water is just disturbing it?Comment
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Considering that the trap has not been changed, and allowing that the trap is properly filled with water there is little chance that actual sewer gases are getting past the trap. We must then consider all other possiblities.
You stated that you had changed the faucett which then led me to think in terms of possibly loosening some scale, or perhaps a change in flow rate potentially causing a change in the supply water.
After giving the matter considerable thought I think we are overlooking the obvious. Perhaps the new faucett is delivering water with a greater rate of flow, or the disharge angle is slightly different, and is now directed into the drain opening in such a manner as to force air to go up and vent out the overflow. In turn, there is most likely a slight buildup of soap scum and sludge in the lavatory bowl internal overflow tube.
To test the theory, try setting the drain stopper tight and turning the water on. That would prevent the airflow up through the overflow and you should not get the odor.
Now open the drain with the water running and see if the odor is present, if so, we then know that the problem is coming from sludge in the overflow.
If that proves to be the case, you could then disconnect the trap from the tail piece. Place a pail under the tailpiece and plug the lower end of the tail piece tightly with a wet rag. The fill the sink with a strong chlorinated household cleaner to clean and disinfect the overflow. Allow it to sit 30 minutes to an hour, then remove the rag, draining the bowl and reattach the trap.
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I think that that's it. I could feel air coming through the overflow holes. I'm attaching (or will try to) pictures of the plumbing under the sink. From I understand, the trap, looks permently sealed.
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That certainly is an ABS glue in trap, with a cleanout, which is fine.
The only problem is, that makes it a bit more difficult to clean the overflow port. You might try using a funnel and getting some foaming liquid drain cleaner in there. Sink clogs are a combination of soap, toothpaste, and hair and drain cleaners work well on that. After it sits a while you should be able to leave the stopper closed and run water so it goes out the over flow to rinse it out, but keep an eye on it so you dont run the sink over.Comment
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