Plumbing for a workshop

[Rufusangus]

I need to run new plumbing from my well house to my new shop building that is around 60 feet away, however i have very little knowledge of plumbing and i would like todo it myself.

Any information on pipe specification, how deep the pipes should be under ground, and the best way to install a sink in my workshop would be much apprieciated; Links to online "how-to" resources would be helpfull aswell. I've found alot of information on pipe repair, but not much on actually installing new pipes for a workshop.

Thank you in advanced,
Charles

Also feel free to e-mail me at rtd_rufus@hotmail.com

[LazyPup]

In order to run a drain line to your outbuilding you will have to begin by determining where the line will terminate. This could be either the septic tank, municipal sewer or an extension of the house drainage system.

You must then carefully measure the running distance from the point of termination to the furthest point where the drain is required.

The code minimum for an underground line is a 3 inch diameter and it must be laid with a 1/8th inch per foot drop in the direction of flow.

In your case it is roughly estimated as 60 feet so you will need a pitch of 60 x .125 (1/8th) = 7.5 inches.

The entire lenght of the line must be a minimum of the frost level for you location plus 6 inches. I.E. (If you frost line is 12 inches, then the pipe must be a minimum of 12 + 6 = 18 inches below grade.)


Whenever a line is passed through a masonary wall the line must be sleeved. To sleeve the line you must first pass a short length of PVC at least two trade sizes larger and long enough to extend at least 3 to 4 inches on either side of the wall. The sleeve is then sealed to the wall by whatever means available, cement, tar, epoxies etc.
The desired line is then passed through the sleeve and the space between the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the desired pipe is filled with expansion foam.

When the line is passing under the floor of the outbuilding it must be a minimum of 1 ft. below the finished floor at its highest point.

There must be a cleanout within 3 feet of the footer wall where the line enters the building. If a building has a basement, the main cleanout is normally placed in the basement, but if it is a slab construction the main cleanout it 3 feet ourside the footer wall.

Ther must also be a cleanout on the upstream end of the pipe. If a toilet is set on the end of the run, the toilet meets the requirement for a cleanout because a toilet can be lifted allowing unobstructed access to the drain. If there is no toilet on the end of the run a cleanout must be located on the floor on the upstream side of the last fixture served, or the line may be run to the opposite footer wall and the cleanout located outside on the end of the pipe.

There must also be a main vent on the outbuilding. It must run from the building drain, up through the roof undiminished in size, in this case a 3 inch diameter vent to the roof.

There must be another cleanout on the vent stack at least 1 foot above the floor but not more than 3 feet above the floor. The cleanout must be located so there is a minimum of 24 inches assured clearance in front of the opening to permit rodding with a power snake.

When connecting vertical lines to the horizontal drain you must use a WYE + 1/8th bend or a combo fitting. (The code prohibits installing a sanitary tee with its side opening in a vertical position.)

When attaching the sink waste arm to the vent riser you must use a sanitary Tee. (The code prohibits using a Wye + 18th bend or a Combo with the side opening in a horizontal plane.)

Some common code errors to avoid:

1.If using plastic pipe the entire system must be made from the same type of pipe I.E. ABS, PVC, Borosilicate, CPVC. (The code prohibits glueing different types of pipe together.)
2. All pipe and fittings used on the drain line must be DWV (Drain, Waste & Vent) fittings. Do not mix pressure fittings.
Pressure fittings are listed by the degree of bend, I.E. 45 deg or 90 Deg elbow.
DWV fittings are rated by the fraction of a circle, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16th bend etc.
When laying plastic pipe in a trench it must be laid so the writing on the pipe is clearly visible from the top.
When running plastic pipe indoors it must be run so the writing is clearly visible when standing directly near the pipe.
Both the Glue and the primer used to join the pipe must be clearly listed for the type of pipe your are using.
When running the pipe above grade it must be properly supported. You may not use metal hangers or strapping to support plastic pipe. (You can use plastic J-hook hangers or plastic strapping.)

[Rufusangus]

Ah, many thanks. That information will be a great help.