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I just ordered a new gas water heater today and will be installing it next week. I would like to use flexible water supply llnes and gas llne. I am looking for tips for what I need to purchase in order to intall these lines. I probably will have to go from the standard 1/2 inch galvanized water pipe to whatever nipples? are installed in the top of the heater. Likewise I will need to go from the 1/2? black pipe gas supply tothe water heater with the flexible gas line. I have put in several water heaters through the years, but I am no plumber and usually end up going to the hardware store umpteen times until I finally piece the correct pieces together. I just thought one of you could tell me in plumber's language what parts I would need so I could only make one trip to the hardware store. I know it is probably hard to get it exactly without seeing what lines I have now, but thought maybe someone could take a shot at it. Thanks in advance.
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There are so many code requirements that most codes devote an entire chapter to water heaters, However I will try to give you the details specific to your location.
LOCATION:
FUEL Fired water heaters may not be installed in closets, bedrooms, or bathrooms.
Some local codes require a ducted source of combustion air...(check local code)
An approved drip pan is required if the heater is mounted in an attic space, on a wood floor, or a floor subject to damage by water. The pan must have a separate drain line running outside the structure or to an approved indirect waste receptacle. There must also be a minimum of 24" assured walk space completely around the heater.
If a gas water heater is installed in a garage or an unfinished basement it must be elevated a minimum of 18" above the finished floor.
Some localities require the heater to be secured to the wall with an approved earthquake/hurricane tie brace (check local code)
If a water heater is installed in a garage it must be protected by bollards set in the concrete.
WATER LINES:
There may be no direct connection between copper piping and iron water pipes or tank vessels.
You should install approved "dielectric Nipples" in the tank before attaching the copper water lines. (Some Manufacturers supply the dielectric nipples with the tanks)
There must be a Full Bore type shutoff valve on the cold water line. (Gate Valve) If the valve is a hardened bronze body type it will meet code approval as a transition fitting from the iron water pipe to the copper lines, otherwise you will require dielectric nipples or 6" hardened bronze nipples to make the transition.
The code requires a union on both hot and cold water lines, however, if the tank is connected by means of flexible copper supply lines they meet the requirement for the union.
If your water supply pressure is greater than 80psi you are required to have a pressure regulating valve on the water main,,and an expansion tank on the cold water line immediately ahead of the water heater.
The water lines must run a minimum of 12" vertical before turning horizontal or you will be required to form high loops in the copper flex lines or install formed high loops. (See illustration)
Hot & Cold water lines should be insulated for the first 5 ft from the heater. (check your local code-Required by Uniform Plumbing Code-)
T&P VALVE- All water heaters must be equiped with an approved Temperature and Pressure relief valve. (if you can not effect a gravity drain you are also required to install a WATTS 210 Gas Shutoff)
T&P drain line- The T&P drain line diameter must be a minumum of the discharge diameter of the T&P valve (normally 3/4")
If the heater is installed on a floor above finished grade the T&P drain line is require to go outside the structure and terminate within 6" of ground level.
There may be no threads or fittings on the discharge end of the T&P drain line.
The T&P valve may not be terminated into the drip pan.
The T&P valve and Drip pan must each be fitted with a minimum of a 3/4" drain line. (They may not share the same line.)
GAS LINE: The code permits both galvanized iron and black iron pipe for gas lines, however most local codes only permit Black Iron pipe. (Even when both are approved by your local code, you may not mix Galvanized and black iron pipe or fittings.)
The gas line must be equiped with an approved Gas Shutoff valve.
Whenever a Gas line drops vertically then changes to a horizontal run you are required to install a 4 inch drip stub. To make the drip stub install a Tee at the point where you want to run the horizontal line with the side opening of the tee in the horizontal position. Then install a 4" nipple with a cap on the end off the bottom of the tee..(See Illustration)
You will have to check your local codes to determine what type of flex line you may run from the gas line to the water heater gas regulator. Some areas permit flared copper, while others require approved flex lines. They may also require single or double wall lines.
You will need the appropriate transition fitting to connect your flex line to both the gas line and the water heater, usually a 1/2MIP x Flare (flare sized to your line)
You should apply a pipe dope Listed for gas service on all threaded joints except the flare fittings. (Do not apply dope or teflon tape to flare fittings).
When finished all pipe joints and fittings on the gas line MUST BE checked with a solution of soap and water. (I mix equal parts of dishwashing liquid and water)
WATER HEATER TEMPERATURE SETTINGS...
Water heaters may not be set above 120 deg F unless all showers are equiped with an anti scalding regulator valve.
My personal preference for pipe dope is a product called "Non hardening Rectorseal but it can be difficult to find in hardware or home supply stores. You can easily find it at any plumbing supply store.
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