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  • Venting

    A through the roof vent pipe is not a option for this project. Any other options for venting for a sink and toilet install?

    Automatic vent devices?
    Loop vents?

    Thanks

  • #2
    Ron..

    The different codes take some radically different views on venting. In order to offer an answer I would need to know what you are venting and which major code is in effect in your locality.

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by LazyPup

      Ron..

      The different codes take some radically different views on venting. In order to offer an answer I would need to know what you are venting and which major code is in effect in your locality.
      I am putting a toilet and sink in a garage. I have acess to a drain and water without much trouble. It is the drain vents that are a issue.

      I can not tell you what the local codes are.

      Comment


      • #4
        If you are installing a toilet and sink in the garage there are a numbeer of issues to be considered.

        1. All structures equiped with drains are required to have a minimum of one Main Vent which runs undiminished in size from the main drain through the roof, therefore, If this is a detached garage you will have no alternative but to create a 3" vent through the roof.

        If this is an attached garage and you are contemplating tying into a floor drain, you will need to first confirm that the drain line is a 3" line and that it is in fact connected to the house sanitary drainage system. Many garage floor drains are connected to the foundation drain or gutter and downspout drains which are storm drains, not sanitary drains. Inadverantly connecting a toilet to a storm drain would be a major violation of Federal Enviromental Protection Agency regulations and could result in serious fines of up to $10,000 per day of proven offense.

        To confirm the drain is in fact a sanitary drain you can open the house main cleanout, then have someone pour a couple gallons of water that has been colored with food coloring into the desired drain and look in the main cleanout to see if the colored water goes out the main drain.

        The next problem to be considered is the actual depth of the drain you intend to tie into. A toilet is required to discharge into a 3" or 4" drain line. The radius curve of a 3" closet bend requires 12" of depth plus you would need another 1/8" per foot of downward pitch from the closet bend outlet to the drain connection.

        The Uniform Plumbing Code requires ALL vents to go through the roof, however, it does permit a maximum of one air inlet valve per structure (With local inspectors approval).

        The International Residential Code permits an unlimited use of air inlet valves providing the structure is equiped with one main vent which runs undiminished in size from the main drain through the roof.

        If the drain you intend to connect to is in fact a sanitary drain, and if it is deep enough to permit the required pitch, you can then run a 3" line to the toilet location. (A toilet is required to be on the end of the run.)

        An auxillary vent is only required to be 1/2 of the diameter of the line it serves, therefore at some convenient point downstream from the toilet you can tie in an 1-1/2" line and run it to the lavatory. You could then install an air inlet valve on the lavatory riser or waste arm to effect an auxillary vent for both the lavatory and the toilet.

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